clicking sound maybe cv maybe not

[camper]

I recently developed a clicking noise and have performed the following self diag.

The clicking noise occurs with the brakes on or off, it occurs if you drive straight or turn. It does not make any noise under acceleration unless the accelration is very slight. It makes more clicks (between 4-5) then tire rotations.

I have heard cv joint clicks and it sounds similar but is not better or worse
when turning. It stops when the vehicle stops. The dealer determine it is not the front drive shaft but did not have an answer at the last visit.

Not enough clicks per revolution to be a sensor hitting the ring.
Not rocks in the tire threads.

When I accelerate it must be taking up some slack somewhere that keeps it from clicking.

Is the 4-5 count the correct ratio for a drive shaft to front wheel revolution?
I don't know the pinion to ring ratio on the front axle to make this guess.

Any clues?

Thanks for any help it goes in tomorrow.

C

99 disco II v8 with ace

[Disco Mike]

I also have a 99 D2 and whenever I hear this I usually always suggest that you crawl under the truck with a flash light and inspect the double cardon joint that attaches the drive shaft to the t/case. What you ar looking for is to see if you can see grease fittings on the two u-joints that are in this housing. If you don't there is a high possibility that yours is about to fail since it has never been lubed. If it fails it can take out the tranny and or the t/case so don't wait around for it to happen.
By the way, your diff gears are 3:54's.
If your are bad, you don't need to replace the drive shaft, just have a drive line shop rebuilt it using serviciable u-joints.
Hope this helps,
Mike

[BenLittle]

Ujoints.... The silent killers.

Rebuild your front shaft like yesterday.

[camper]

Thanks for your help. I would agree especially based on the ratio you gave.
The dealer did check it out and claims it is not the front shaft. What is the best way to check this out. On a list and sping the wheel or big screw driver
and pushing around on joint. I like the idea of serviceable joint if it needs to be replaced given where the exhaust is located this would be the second item that proximity to hot exhaust has caused premature failure. The cruise unit is the other I see in newer models they put a heat shield. I just moved mine away from the header. should I look for a shield for this joint. I think the hot summers temps over 100 sitting in traffic just melts the grease out of the joints.

Again thanks for your help let me know how you diag the shaft.

C

[BenLittle]

Like I said. Silent killers, change them or change your tcase when your shafts busts and breaks a baseball size hole in it Your choice.

[Disco Mike]

C
Do as I mentioned eariler, crawl under and look for the grease fittings, if they aren't there you have a problem, there is no need to wiggle it just replace it or start saving for a big repair.
Mike

[camper]

Thanks for the reply. Mike the problem is there is no play in the drive shaft and I think Ben is talking about the shaft going thru the trany not the
tcase. Anyhow no grease fittings so I will take the shaft down and see if the noise goes away. I can also drill and fit the grease nipples.

Again thanks for the replies it is good to know that others have experience with these nasties. Wish I could debug my abs as easily. Thought there use to be laws that required the manufacture to provide the owner with information without high cost tools to fix what they bought. Not anymore.
Still a 1000 for the tool. Wow, would be nice if someone could read that bus and unserstand the codes of course it is like any other computer in fact it is based on the ecu that you could read with blink codes on the pre disco 2.
Seems odd.

Thanks C

[Disco Mike]

C.
A couple of thoughts for you.
Replacing the u-joints in the double cardon is extremely important, will it fix your problem, it should and if it doesn't you have prevented a hugh problem in the future, that being loosing your t/case and or tranny.
Have you activated your CDL so you can drive without the front drive shaft?
You can't nor would it be worth while to try and drill holes in your old warn out u-joints to install grease fittings, the damage s already done, the neddle bearing are fried with the sort of mileage your truck has on it. I play really hard with my truck and had to replace mine at around 36K, at that time nearly half the bearing caps were full of ground up bearings.
Not be concerned about movement on the double cardon, it is not a good way to test it.
When I was a service manager for Rover we replaced these all the time, many times along with other parts and it was not at all unusual to see a customer with a $4000 to $10,000 repair bill.
That's my 2 cents worth.
Mike

[camper]

Thanks for the two cents. I bought Monty the Rover becuase I just liked the way it looked and found out it is alot of fun to drive. Just a great sound. But this click is more of a clack and I will pull the shaft down tomorrow. I would like to at least do some fault isolation. Pretty easy to pull down. Do you know what the hex set screw is for looks like it should be a zerk for the slide but why no zerk?

I did mention the dealer did say it was ok but they have been wrong in the past.

I let the forum know how it goes.

C