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Old 11-10-2007, 10:21 AM   #1 (permalink)
Don't sweat the little stuff....everythings little stuff
 
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Default D2 Thermostat replacement?

My D2 (03) is running warm, then hot, then light comes on. I rest it at idle for a few, then it's OK. One day it's fine, the next hot, the next fine...

I imagine the first place to start is the T-sata, but I need some guidance as to how to replace it, and where I can find one. I don't imagine the local NAPA has one...

Thanks in advance,

Dave
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Old 11-10-2007, 12:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Should be available at any parts store. I don't see any reason why napa wouldn't have one. They're cheap too. It's in a plastic housing on the passenger side of the engine. I'll see if I can dig up a pic of it.
Other things to check - I'm assuming your coolant level is full? Do you get hot air when you run your heater? Any wooshing noises behind the dash?
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Old 11-10-2007, 12:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KDamericano
It's in a plastic housing on the passenger side of the engine.
I don't think it's a local parts store item.
That plastic housing does not disassemble, so you need to replace the whole assembly. DAP, Rovers North, Atlantic-British all carry them for about $15 to $30.
http://www.roverparts.com/ProductLis...imageField.y=0
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Old 11-10-2007, 01:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I agree, go with DAP , Rover Connection or Atlantic British.
How many miles on your truck, have been having to add coolant?
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Old 11-10-2007, 01:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
Don't sweat the little stuff....everythings little stuff
 
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Let's see, I have about 56k and the t/stat hasn't been replaced per the dealer records. Of course, it could have been done by po.

No heat for 20-30 mins after the car is very warmed up...no idea why.

I'll try replacing the t/stat first. Went to the dealer and purchased for 40.00. Asked how much for them to install...2 hrs it calls for. I will do it myself and see if it solves the problem.

Thanks
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Old 11-10-2007, 04:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
Don't sweat the little stuff....everythings little stuff
 
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This is odd. I replaced the t/stat. No real difference. It gets to normal temp w/in less than a minute from starting cold. Then runs normal at "around town" speeds...but no heat in the cabin. Then I went to the Hwy and it ran very hot almost immediately...light came on too as well as various gurgling noises from the dash and gear shift area.

Guess it's time for a flush???
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Old 11-10-2007, 04:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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2 HOURS??? I don't think so...try 30 min, including dumping and refilling fluids. What do they charge, $120.00 an hour!?
And $40.00!!!!!!! AB has it for 17 bucks!
So they were going to charge you $280.00 for something that would cost you $30.00 to do your self including fluid. Stealerships never cease to amaze me.
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Old 11-10-2007, 04:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwemerys
This is odd. I replaced the t/stat. No real difference. It gets to normal temp w/in less than a minute from starting cold. Then runs normal at "around town" speeds...but no heat in the cabin. Then I went to the Hwy and it ran very hot almost immediately...light came on too as well as various gurgling noises from the dash and gear shift area.

Guess it's time for a flush???
If your getting no heat I would check for air in the system first by bleeding the system. That will be a simple check if you haven't done it already.
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Old 11-10-2007, 04:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It is a regular parts store item. I just bought one yesterday at Advance Auto Parts for $10.00.
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Old 11-10-2007, 07:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Make sure you use DexCool coolant when you are done. Do you know how to bleed the system to get all the air out of the engine afterwards?
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Old 11-13-2007, 05:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The cooling system in the Rover is a good one; it allows the engine to first warm the coolant going into the heater core to provide good heat very quickly; then in circulates engine coolant through the radiator. This is made possible by the sophisticated thermostat which has three connections: a lower radiator hose on the bottom, an upper rad. hose on the top as well as a by-pass valve. Make sure the upper and bypass hoses are not switched on the t-stat. It is possible and easy to do. One hose is slightly larger than the other, make sure it is matched to the fitting on the t-stat that is slightly larger.

If this is correct, make sure your viscous fan is working right. When the engine is cold, you should be able to rev the engine and literally stop the fan blades with your hand. (Don't do this). Instead, when the engine is cold put your hand near the fan and rev the engine by pulling on the throttle cable. The amount of air you feel blowing shouldn't change much. Do the same thing when the engine is hot. You should feel a definite increase in the air blast from the fan when the engine is hot. If your viscous fan drive is junk the engine may be overheating when it is run at highway speeds. In cold weather you can get by without a fan.

But you have no heat, so I doubt that's it.

I have a similar issue: no heat at idle, even with the engine fully warmed, except if I rev the engine to 1500 RPM or so. Also, it now takes a long timne to warm the Rover up. I think I have an overcooling issue, not sure.
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