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Old 12-07-2008, 07:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Diagnose Bad lifter? Procedure for getting to lifters?

So
This is a 107K discovery I've just purchased with what the dealer thought was a bad lifter. I've dropped and filtered the oil, nothing in the sump to suggest anything bad in there. Also, a stethoscope pointed around the motor definately has a clacking from the rear of the LH rocker cover, in addition to the general loud clack that seems to be everywhere..

I've never had a lifter bad on a v8 before - guess I've been lucky - but this means I don't honestly what they do sound like. I put some dresh 5/30 in there, along with seafoam just to see if it did / does anything.


To start, the noise comes and goes. It is never completely quiet, but can get so loud it sounds almost like it has 7 sweet running gasoline cylinders and one cylinder off a 200TDi.

As i said - I've never had a motor with a stuck lifter, but have had one with a rattly big end - and the noise there was pretty constant; it never came and went like this does. It also grenaded itself within a short time. I know the dealer had the vehicle running for 2hrs or so all in, and I've had it running about the same, so hopefully someone will confirm this all fits the character of a bad lifter...

So, assuming it is - I want to jump on it and sort this out.
I've got the (RAVE) manual, so it appears reasonable straightforward to do this.

In short:
De-pressurise fuel rail
Remove alternator
Move PAS pump
Remove intake plenum
remove coolant elbow
Remove rocker boxes

Crank engine to 'pump up' good lifters and expose problem lifter (will this work)?

Disconnect fuel rail hose(s)
Remove intake manifold
Remove intake gasket (valley cover)
Remove rockers
Pull pushrods
Remove all lifters for inspection (hopefully bad one is found)
Inspect camshaft? Is it possible to see the condition of the lobes?

Re-assemble.



So, being this far into an engine, that has done 107K, and never appears to have had the Head gaskets done, would you go that bit further and do them?

What about pulling the sump and front cover to inspect the oil pump, change the timing chain and front oil seal? And if I'm this far in, surely removing the cam and inspecting / replacing has to be on the list?

I know that I'm asking a bit of a vague question, but if the chains are known to break at 120K for example, it makes sense. Is HG failure almost guaranteed, or do many engines never need them doing?

I don't want to go throwing a whole load of money or time into this rig, but don't want to be coming back again! I'd appreciate some honest opinions.
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Old 12-08-2008, 05:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You can get some oil additives that are specifically marketed as freeing up sticky lifters. Some here claim to have success with them others haven't. Maybe worth a try before pulling the motor apart.
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Old 12-08-2008, 05:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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"I put some fresh 5/30 in there, along with seafoam just to see if it did / does anything"

This stuff is what I've heard mentioned on many different forums. To be honest; i'm not overly confident in these products.

I'll also add that I know there are differing opinions regarding the oil viscosity that should be used, but up here in Michigan, it is currently anywhere between 10 and 40 degrees and ain't going to get tropical (read 60+ degrees) for at least four months
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Old 12-08-2008, 06:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Drain the engine, replacing the 6 quarts of oil with ATF, let the engine idle for 20 to 30 minutes then do a normal oil and filter change.
ATF will clean out an engine and for those noises that come and go like you are describing, this should be the first thing for you to do.
Get back to us and let us know how it is going.
Mike
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Mike, I have heard about ATF before, and researched it via google - I'm a little wary that folks don't seem to report back after they are advised to try it by others. Have you personally tied and succeded with the ATF trick?
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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We started using it nearly 20 years ago per some of the auto manufactures and had great luck with it.
PM me your tele number if you want to talk about it.
Mike
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Brand of Oil and filter?
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elemental View Post
Brand of Oil and filter?

Oi! Here we go......
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey, he asked for help.
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elemental View Post
Hey, he asked for help.
Then I will say it for you....two words Rotella and wix
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:16 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You did say it for me.
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Old 12-09-2008, 11:43 AM   #12 (permalink)
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It is a hinmar filter, and I'm buggered if i know what oil it was, it came from Aldi - I got it along with a $99 air compressor and some snickers bars with arabic writing...
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Old 12-09-2008, 02:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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turbodave where in Michigan are you?
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B]Back in a LR after 25 years!!![/b]
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01 D2, 2" lift, CDL. RTE front bumper with 9500# Ramsey winch
"BackInA88" on all the other LR forums
(Sign up here first and couldn't think of a good handle at the time! )
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:29 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Ok - that was my lousy attempt at humour... I used a bosch filter and shell oil. I'm actually pulling the top-end apart this weekend; so long as my atlanticbritish parts arrive.

Cheers,
Dave


ps - Slouz; I'm in kalamazoo.
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