Land Rover Forum / Range Rover Forum Land Rover Forum Header Right
Go Back   Land Rovers Only - Land Rover Forum > Land Rover Model Forums > Discovery Series II
Register Home Forum Active Topics Gallery Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

   
LandRoversOnly.com is the premier Land Rover Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-09-2006, 01:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South Africa
Posts: 8
Gallery: 0
Default Double Cardon Joints

Hi,

I have a Discovery II 2002 and would like to know more of the double cardon joint issue everyone is talking about. I didn't see any mention of cardon joints in my workshop manual. Where are they located and how do you check them for damage? A detailed instruction of how to service these joints would also help.

Thanks
dieter is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-09-2006, 05:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 234
Gallery: 0
Default

They're located on the front driveshaft, at the transfer case end. I'm not sure of the proper Land Rover nomenclature, but they may be referred to as CV joints. The best way to check them for damage is to remove the front driveshaft and feel the CV for no roughness, binding, or excessive looseness in its full range of movement. If it does not have zerk fittings for greasing the u-joints, you really can't service them; if so, you'll probably want to rebuild the CV with quality u-joints (with zerks) and centering ball.
O.B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2006, 07:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Disco Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,329
Gallery: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by O.B.
They're located on the front driveshaft, at the transfer case end. I'm not sure of the proper Land Rover nomenclature, but they may be referred to as CV joints. The best way to check them for damage is to remove the front driveshaft and feel the CV for no roughness, binding, or excessive looseness in its full range of movement. If it does not have zerk fittings for greasing the u-joints, you really can't service them; if so, you'll probably want to rebuild the CV with quality u-joints (with zerks) and centering ball.
I agree with O.B. with one exception. Check and see if there are grease fittings, if not replace them ASAP cuse if one fails, it can cost you a transmission.
If needed use a Spicer u-joint or better or buy the replacement set from Bill at Great Basin Rovers.
Mike
Disco Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2006, 01:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South Africa
Posts: 8
Gallery: 0
Default

I think they call it the Hookes joint. See below from manual:

"The Hookes joint is bolted to the front output shaft of the transfer box.
The Hookes joint is lubricated during manufacture and sealed for life."

Therefore this joint is not serviceable on my Disco, right? Why is this particular joint vulnerable?

Cheers
dieter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2006, 05:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 234
Gallery: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieter
I think they call it the Hookes joint. See below from manual:

"The Hookes joint is bolted to the front output shaft of the transfer box.
The Hookes joint is lubricated during manufacture and sealed for life."

Therefore this joint is not serviceable on my Disco, right? Why is this particular joint vulnerable?

Cheers
Right!
For some reason the factory "hooke" joints have failed prematurely. Unfortunately, when they do fail, the front driveshaft detaches and beats the living heck out of anything nearby; which includes the engine oil pan and transmission. One cardon joint failure can add up to $$$$ in repair costs. Tail-tell signs of impending doom can be a chirping sound from under the truck while moving, or vibration (if you're lucky)
O.B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2006, 05:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Disco Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,329
Gallery: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieter
I think they call it the Hookes joint. See below from manual:

"The Hookes joint is bolted to the front output shaft of the transfer box.
The Hookes joint is lubricated during manufacture and sealed for life."

Therefore this joint is not serviceable on my Disco, right? Why is this particular joint vulnerable?

Cheers
Alot of people say it is becaose it is located between the 2 cats. and the heat dries out the bearings. I had to replace mine at around 36,000 miles and when we inspected the bearing, 4 of the bearing caps were full of ground bearing and rust.
If you were to buy a upgraded drive shaft from Tom Woods, for example, you would find all the joints were servicable,
Mike

Last edited by Disco Mike : 05-16-2006 at 10:03 AM.
Disco Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 09:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 6
Gallery: 0
Default

Anyone know where to buy the Tom Woods driveshaft? Is this an easier route than having mine rebuilt with serviceable u-joints?
bcsellie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 09:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
Ian Matthews
 
p76rangie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 2,069
Gallery: 0
Default

In Oz there was a trip with 4 discos through the outback. Went through a lot of fine mud on the roads. 3 out of the 4 had the double cardens failed. All had done less than 5000 miles. One set had already been converted to greasable and still failed. 2 caught theirs before they completely gave way. One didn't and it made a mess and punch a hole in his transmission. Landrover would not cover it under warranty as his suspension was 5 mm higher than their set range.

Ian
p76rangie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 10:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
Elephantitis penisitis
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,439
Gallery: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bcsellie
Anyone know where to buy the Tom Woods driveshaft? Is this an easier route than having mine rebuilt with serviceable u-joints?
BC - you can google Tom Woods and find the web site. Or you can go to a local drive line shop and have them rebuild your current shaft with Spicer greasable u-joints
__________________
What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?
roverX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2006, 07:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
Moderator
 
drum655's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Newnan, GA
Posts: 954
Gallery: 0
Default

i just had my entire front shaft rebuilt with spicer joints and i couldn't be happier!!! its great, no more vibes!!! it cost me 243 to rebuild the entire shaft, but mine was pretty worn out...
__________________
Moderator of the East Coast and Discovery 2 sections!

2001 Disco II SE w/CDL

~Equipe 4x4 Winch Bumper
~Custom steel rear bumper
~Equipe 4x4 steering skid and radiator skid
~RTE rocksliders
~QT services front and rear diff guards
~2" RTE lift
~265/75 r16 Federal Couragia MTs
~Superwinch X9
~Safety Devices Roof Rack
drum655 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2006, 09:40 AM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Searcaigh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dubai
Posts: 453
Gallery: 31
Default

Just had my front drive shaft break yesterday, fortunately not too far from home, which was lucky, and fortunately I was only doing about 20 kph when it did go bang. Did leave me stranded in the middle of a junction for about an hour until one of my mates pitched up with some tools to remove the shaft and tow the vehicle back to my house.

Guess which bunch of people never stopped to offer assistance

1. Local Emiratis
2 Western ex-pats
3. Arab ex-pats
4. Indian ex-pats

If you chose 2 you would be absolutely correct, there was even a person in a TD5 110 just drove past, no idea who it was as I was under the car at the time but I heard the motor and recognized the wheels.

The UJ at the Diff end has a grease nipple, the one at the gearbox end does not and that was the one that broke.

Just picked up a new one for $240
Attached Thumbnails
double-cardon-joints-prop01bb.jpg  
__________________
Gordon T. Smith
Middle East Land Rover Nutter
Searcaigh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2006, 10:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Disco Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,329
Gallery: 0
Default

Rover By Laws state you always stop for another Rover, thats the law, or be shot in the ass as you are driving off.
Glad you got help.
Mike
Disco Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2006, 02:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
RoverChic's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 778
Gallery: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Mike
Rover By Laws state you always stop for another Rover, thats the law, or be shot in the ass as you are driving off.
Glad you got help.
Mike
x2!! You always help another rover owner out NO matter what!


On a side note, I got mine rebuilt (Precision joints- you will need three) on both trucks and am very happy with the results! $200.00 for each with labor, no vibes, and no chirping!

Now all I need to do is test out my new Tru Trac's!
__________________
2006 Range Rover Sport HSE Rimini Red
2001 D2 CDL
1998 D1 ('Henry' Sold 05/05 Bought Back 01/06 Retired)
1988 RRC SWB ('Silver Bullet' Retired 05/98)
RoverChic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2006, 02:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Disco Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,329
Gallery: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverChic
x2!! You always help another rover owner out NO matter what!


On a side note, I got mine rebuilt (Precision joints- you will need three) on both trucks and am very happy with the results! $200.00 for each with labor, no vibes, and no chirping!

Now all I need to do is test out my new Tru Trac's!
So how you doing lady? Long time no talk. Hope all is well. Have fun with those new T.T's they are fun, I did and Detroit and a T.T , way to much fun.
Mike
Disco Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2006, 03:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
RoverChic's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 778
Gallery: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Mike
So how you doing lady? Long time no talk. Hope all is well. Have fun with those new T.T's they are fun, I did and Detroit and a T.T , way to much fun.
Mike

So Mike you did a Detroit in the rear and TT in the front? Did you need to upgrade the axles for the rear? Did I make the wrong choice? Pros-Cons? I called and talked to Bill (GBR) and was not really sure what to do as I had to make a split decision. Any advice?

LOL..things are well! Got rid of ol' Henry and bought a set of D2's! How are you?
__________________
2006 Range Rover Sport HSE Rimini Red
2001 D2 CDL
1998 D1 ('Henry' Sold 05/05 Bought Back 01/06 Retired)
1988 RRC SWB ('Silver Bullet' Retired 05/98)
RoverChic is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Land Rovers Only - Land Rover Forum > Land Rover Model Forums > Discovery Series II



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.1.0
All content is copyright © 2004-2008 www.landroversonly.com and its original authors. Land Rovers Only is in no way affiliated with Land Rover