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Old 12-23-2011, 06:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Drivers door won't lock or unlock

Posting for a friend I'm helping with his disco2. 2003. The key fob will work all doors but the drivers. I checked to see if this was already answered but I couldn't find it in a main topic discussion. I know this is relatively common as I have seen it before but never cared since it wasn't the drivers door. Any clues what the problem could be? It is bearable because usually the key will lock and unlock the drivers door. Any ideas would help to atleast get me pointed to what it could be. Thanks guys.
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Old 12-23-2011, 07:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Perhaps one of these?

Land Rover Discovery II Actuator, Left Front Door | Land Rover Electrical Parts
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Old 12-23-2011, 07:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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First thing to check is fuse. If fuse is ok then check to see if your master lock/unlock switch triggers it or not. If your master switch locks/unlocks the drivers door than you will need to reprogramm your fob. If not, than you will need to remove ur door panel and see if you r getting power at the connector or not. To test it, back probe( not always reccomended, but one time is ok) each wires and start checking for the voltages by pressing lock and unlock in fob. If you have power, most def. Ur actuator is bad. good luck to you. If I'm missing any info. My fellow member will provide it.

If you need actuator look in eBay, you will find it for $40-50 used in good condition.
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Sorry, forgot to add that the master lock/unlock button on the dash does not work. And you can feel the lock button on the door try to go up or down. I'll check the fuse and if not that I'll take the door panel off and check the actuator.
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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if you can hit the key fob or the master lock/unlock and put your ear to the door, you'll probably be able to hear the actuator make a clunk or clicking noise, if you can hear it then i would assume the fuse is fine and you're getting power to the actuator. the actuator may need adjustment though, so it might be worth looking at it before ordering a new one, but actuator motor failure is pretty common in these trucks.

killa rover was right in saying to look on ebay for a used one. i bought mine form british parts of utah parts for 115$. i'm not sure if it was new or used, but it's been working great for two years. 115 seems kinda cheap for a new one.

be prepared for a 2 hour or so job. it involves pulling out the window frame, window, taking off the mirror etc.... definitely consult a manual or the rave while doing it, there are a couple of tricky steps.
when you take the interior door panel off try to use a panel popper, the plastic fasteners tend to break very easily or tear through the panels backing board. after you get the panel off you'll encounter a plastic moisture barrier, don't cut this if you can help it. if you're careful you can separate it at the black rubberized mastic seal and once you're all finished you should be able to use the same seal to place the plastic back. just use some masking tape to fold it out of the way while you work.
while you're in there, inspect the window regulator operation. inspect the white plastic wheels in the track as they may be cracked or broken and the window regulator may need to be replaced. also inspect your speakers, especially the 3" in the top of the panel, it's more than likely blown if it's a harmon and kardon. i also have bought used speakers, window regulators and window motors, it's so much cheaper that way.

when i installed mine i paid close attention to the markings of the old bolts that held the actuator in place, there is a bit of room for adjustment, so if it's not correctly lined you won't get a smooth open and close action.

here's a post before i did my own fix, it may have a few helpful hints.

window regulator and lock actuatoe motor

good luck
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