Engine Flush

[Jupiter Rover]

yeah here it only has "API: SM,SL,SJ,EC,CF"

that does make sense though, the oil companies wouldn't bother spending loads of money for the certification if it would not effect there profits.. they must see it that customers do not even know about the ratings so why bother..

[msggunny]

Originally Posted by slangel

I have been to his home, he has fiddled with my rover

Never heard it called a Rover before, thats something new.....

[bartell]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

I am continually misquoted, so I will attempt to put my views in a clear and concise manner:

That's good...because you are all over the place.

I will try to respond to you in the language you use, so there is no confusion. I shall take the liberty of using your favorite word. (My apologies to others.)

Originally Posted by p76rangie

1) ZDDP There is little or no evidence that the reductions in ZDDP have caused any problems with cam wear,

Bullshit

Originally Posted by p76rangie

outside the initial running in. It has been shown that too much ZDDP (above 1400ppm) can be damaging to your cam.

Bullshit.

Originally Posted by p76rangie

Previous studies have shown that some ZDDP is required for Rover type cams. The level required for such protection is around 800ppm.

Bullshit

Originally Posted by p76rangie

People attempting to sell ZDDP additives would use what ever evidence is available to sell their product. Yet the only evidence they can come up with is a test done 31 years ago. They cannot produce anything that suggests that the recent reductions in levels has any impact.

Bullshit

Originally Posted by p76rangie

3) Shear Factor A 15W50 oil

This one is amusing. The makers of these lifters made them for 20W50. If you want to go beyond that, have fun and I will applaud though not listen with great interest. I find it amusing that you choose an oil with one of the highest zddp content left on the market.

Originally Posted by p76rangie

5) Diesel oil Traditionally Diesel oil has had higher detergents than normal oil. This is becoming less so. There is some evidence that the higher detergent levels have an adverse affect of the protection levels offered by ZDDP.

You are changing your tune. If you read your recent postings on diesel oils you will note that you have stated that they have or had had a higher level of zddp BUT the detergents in them wash the zddp away. One has to search for a leap of faith for that onel.

7) Recommended Oil Based on the oils I have looked at that are available in the states, it would appear that Mobil 1 15W50 is a reasonable oil. It is from a reputable company and has a reasonable quality of oil used. For those that are still a bit nervous about ZDDP levels, it has a high concentration that does not get into the dangerous levels. Such levels are above the requirements for Rover type cams. It has a winter rating that would suit most parts of the United States. While maintaining this good winter rating it has a relatively high hot temperature rating (50) which will offer a good shear protection for your engine.[/quote]

Thankfully my prodding got you out and looking a bit more. If that produced your "discovery" of Mobil 1 15W50, then you and others will benefit. I am happy about that.

However, I have concluded that there is not much headway to be made here with you. At this point, I would be grateful simply to see you post a picture of yourself without your finger in your nose.

James

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by bartell

That's good...because you are all over the place.

I shall take the liberty of using your favorite word.

Bullshit

Bullshit.

Bullshit

Bullshit

James

It is hardly my favourite word. I have used it a total of 3 times and only to describe the information you post. I don't even use it to describe Elementals stuff, only yours. I hope you feel special.
So everything that the people who set the oil standards, set the testing procedures, and see the test results for every oil sold in the states, is bullshit. Yet the only thing that you have posted is a reference to a 31 year old report. But you don't even post extracts from that report that backs up anything you say. I don't know why to keep on posting this stuff. Even if you don't feel like an idiot doing it, you are certainly making yourself look like one.

I just realised that my answers to James are becoming repetitive. But I suppose if he keeps on posting the same stuff, the answers remain the same.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by bartell

Thankfully my prodding got you out and looking a bit more. If that produced your "discovery" of Mobil 1 15W50, then you and others will benefit. I am happy about that.

If you check previous threads on Oil, I have used Mobil 1 as a reference well before you got involved. Your a legend in your own mind.

[R_Lefebvre]

Great. Use the oil they recommend, you will be providing a good minimum level of protection. The reason I recommend using the manufacturers specs is that one oil does not fit all engines. For example a moderm turbo charged engine requires a completely different oil to our old engines. Even though the Rover engines did not change much over the years, the recommended oils in the manuals for various temperatures appear to have changed. Mine states that 40 is good up to around 35C and then use 50.

There is nothing I would love more than to use the exact brand and weight of oil that is specified in the owner's manual. Unfortunately, it is not available. I can find Castrol GTX 10W30, but it does seem too thin for the summer and I don't know that Castrol GTX is the same as "Castrol" that the LR are recommending. It also has no ACEA rating.

That's why we have so much trouble with this in North America.

Why would I use a 15W oil? Well, similar to your argument about summer weights, I'd think that 15W oil would have lower cold viscosity in the summer when it's 40-60 degrees at night, compared to the recommended 10W which is intended to be used at much lower temperatures.

Castrol GTX 10W30 seems like the best I can do in the winter, and 15W40 in the summer.

[KDamericano]

Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre

There is nothing I would love more than to use the exact brand and weight of oil that is specified in the owner's manual. Unfortunately, it is not available. I can find Castrol GTX 10W30, but it does seem too thin for the summer and I don't know that Castrol GTX is the same as "Castrol" that the LR are recommending. It also has no ACEA rating.

That's why we have so much trouble with this in North America.

Why would I use a 15W oil? Well, similar to your argument about summer weights, I'd think that 15W oil would have lower cold viscosity in the summer when it's 40-60 degrees at night, compared to the recommended 10W which is intended to be used at much lower temperatures.

Castrol GTX 10W30 seems like the best I can do in the winter, and 15W40 in the summer.

Didn't you say you had found Rotella in your area? Rotella makes a 5w-40 synthetic that I use in the winter here in colorado (probably not as cold as canada, but close). I think mobile 1 makes some 0w oils that are ACEA rated also.

[polar]

This is the oil I use10W-30 and will be going to the 5W-50 this summer. meets all the requirements of this thread.


TYPICAL RESULTS
Viscosity Grade.
5W-50........................PLATINUM® FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
15W-50......................PLATINUM® FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
API Service
SM/CF
SM/CF
ACEA
A3/B4-04................PLATINUM® FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
A3/B4-04................PLATINUM® FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
Gravity, °API
ASTM D-287
33.7
32.5
Specific Gravity @ 60°F(15.6°C)
ASTM D-287
0.857
0.863
Viscosity
@ 40°C, cSt
ASTM D-445
106
143
@ 100°C, cSt
ASTM D-445
17.8
21.4
Viscosity Index
ASTM D-2270
186
175
Flash Point , °C
ASTM D-93
≥ 224
≥ 224
Pour Point, °C
ASTM D-97
-45
-33
MRV viscosity, cP (°C)
ASTD D-4684
26,600 (-35)
13,900 (-25)
CCS Viscosity, cP (°C )
ASTM D-5293
5,940 (-30)
4070 (-20)
HT/HS Viscosity, cP
ASTM D-4683
4.1
5.2
Noack Volatility, %
ASTM D-5800
12.5
7.6
10W-30........................PLATINUM® FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
API Service
SM
SM/CF
SM/CF
SM/CF
ILSAC
GF-4
GF-4
GF-4
GF-4
ACEA
A1-02
A1-02
A5/B5-04
A5/B5-04*............PLATINUM® FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL
Gravity, °API
ASTM D-287
35.2
34.1
34.0
33.3
Specific Gravity @ 60°F(15.6°C)
ASTM D-287
0.849
0.854
0.855
0.859
Viscosity
@ 40°C, cSt
ASTM D-445
44.2
45.73
57.5
61.4
@ 100°C, cSt
ASTM D-445
8.43
8.46
10.2
10.2
Viscosity Index
ASTM D-2270
171
164
166
154
Flash Point , °C
ASTM D-93
224
224
224
240
Pour Point, °C
ASTM D-97
-45
-42
-45
-39
MRV viscosity, cP (°C)
ASTD D-4684
14,600 (-40)
11,600 (-35)
15,700 (-35)
9.900 (-30)
CCS Viscosity, cP (°C )
ASTM D-5293
5,580 (-35)
4,250 (-35)
5,200 (-35)
3,990 (-30)
HT/HS Viscosity, cP
ASTM D-4683
2.6
2.6
3.0
3.1
Noack Volatility, %
ASTM D-5800
13.4
13.2
11.6
9.9

[ArmyRover]

After reading all this I have decide to say Fu*k it I'm using crisco cooking oil.....

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by ArmyRover

After reading all this I have decide to say Fu*k it I'm using crisco cooking oil.....

But what is it's level of ZDDP?

[ArmyRover]

who cares after I drive I drain it and deep fry my tater tots

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, I just changed it last night cause it was due. I did put in the Duron-E 15W40 for now... along with 1L of Valvoline 20W50 I've had lying around for a while I wanted to use up.

But, I did find Castrol Syntec 5W50 at a local store. ACEA A3/B3 rated... but then the truck is supposed to use A2/B2 and I don't know what the difference is?

What really surprised me is how BLACK the oil was after only 3000miles. I've never seen oil that black. I did my wife's car too, and it's been in there for almost 6000miles and it looked better.

Is this normal?

[Elemental]

Yes. Normal! Its cleaning out the dirt.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre

But, I did find Castrol Syntec 5W50 at a local store. ACEA A3/B3 rated... but then the truck is supposed to use A2/B2 and I don't know what the difference is?

It is suppose to be A3/B3. Most literature does not even mention A2/B2 ratings anymore. You will find it difficult to get an oil that has this rating.
"The categories A2 and B2 are not included in this edition of the
ACEA European Oil Sequences because they are unsuitable for some
of the current engines and will be unsuitable for many future
engines. Misuse may cause engine damage. However, the use of
A2 and B2 oils for older engines (where owner’s or workshop’s
literature recommends this use) is still appropriate and can be
done according to the categories A2-96 Issue 3 and B2-98 Issue 2"

[R_Lefebvre]

So does A3 supercede A2? ie: A3 is good for A2 engines, but not vice versa?

If so, then it's probably the best oil I've found to use. Too bad it's $37 for 4L.