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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 20
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Hi folks.
Ive started having a fairly loud ticking when i cold start. Sounds like a noisy lifter on the passenger side, it lasts until the engine is warmed up at about 5 minutes down the road after startup. Figured id start with an engine flush before i start digging deeper into the noise. Ive searched and read about people on here using ATF to flush the engine. So i was just wondering what others suggested for flushing and what is the exact procedure for using ATF to flush the motor. Ive used Seafoam before on other vehicles with great success but id like to learn more about using the ATF as it seems to work well for others with the rovers/buick motor. 2004 SE7 59000 |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,017
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Quote:
Another Oil Question conventional or synthetic oil?
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I only worry about myself, screw the others. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 20
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Yeah i was hoping you wouldnt say that. The ticking only lasts for about 5 minutes then back to normal, very quiet actually after warmed up. Should i still try a flush first or just start opening it up to take a look. If so, what is the procedure you suggest for using the ATF for engine flush.
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2004 SE7 |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
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There are many brands that will be ok, and using the data sheets from the Manufactures you can tell from Sheer rating. In order to be rated at 15-40, the sheer leve must meet what you need for flat tappet wear camshafts(Yours)
If I were you, I would use 15-40 Rotella T Year round. That isnt th eonly choice out there, but it is a good one, and avalible everywhere.
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I only worry about myself, screw the others. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 20
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Thanks Elemental, Ill try that with my next oil change. Ive seen where you suggest that to others on here, i just wasnt sure if went the same for us down here in the year round heat of south florida.
Thanks again.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 43
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Hey Elemental, while we have your attention...
I have a hard time finding Rotella locally (I'm in Canada), not really sure why. So I've been trying to find an alternative oil brand to use in my truck. The owners manual for my 04 says to use a Castrol oil of a type that I can't find here. After doing much research, I ended up with Castrol GTX 10W30 as it has the highest HTHS rating of their oils at 3.2. Still not as high as it should be. ![]() The only thing Castrol has which has better HTHS is the Syntec 5W40 and 5W50 which are also impossible to find... I'm not stuck on Castrol as a brand either. It's just one of the few I can find published HTHS data. I use a Formula Shell in my cars but they don't publish HTHS. An excellent oil I have found that I am using in my motorcycle instead of Rotella is Petro Canada Duron Synthetic 5W40. It seems to be excellent with an HTHS of 4.3! http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/re...80&language=en Is there any other reason this wouldn't be suitable for a Rover engine? Unfortunately I can't find it since I have moved, but hopefully I'll find a source again. What about Duron non-Synth 10W30? This says it meets ACEA A3/B3 and 7SE270, yet it only has an HTHS of 3.5, what's up with that? http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/re...82&language=en Part of the problem I'm having is Petro Canada came up with a new Duron E line for the new Diesel engines, and that's what is being carried by the retailers, but there was little info available. I see now that they've improved the info, and all 3 viscosities have an HTHS over 4! http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/re...76&language=en They list ACEA E2, E7 (E3, E5), any idea what these mean? Anyway, am I good to go with this stuff in my Rover engine? Looks good for my motorcycle too since it says it meets JASO MA for wet clutches. Am I missing anything? I know the motorcycles need high sheer stability because they use the engine oil in the transmission so the gears put it under very heavy sheer. But how is that measured? I hope this oil is suitable, as the non-Synth is only $16/gal. I think the Synth is around $24/gal. Damn good price for what I think is a great oil, compared to paying $12/Q for motorcycle oil. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Give me a chance to review everything you wrote...Good post.
But, be advised 10-30 is often made using the cheap,low quality base... The window of what is considered 10-30 is very wide. I would say, as a rule of thumb, You could use a 15-40 on flat cam engines, like rovers, because in order to meet a 15-40 rating the shear ratings will be in spec. Let me review everything else you mentioned. I have a full day today here at work. ![]()
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#15 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dryden, VA
Posts: 77
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Elemental. Thanks for the help. I think I am going to give the Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic a try. It is ACEA A3/B3 rated and has a HTHS rating of 3.7 . The viscosity index is 186. Most of that is alittle over my head, but I believe they are good numbers according to what I have read on here. It is really easy to find around here. My second choice is Castrol Syntec 5W-40. It is easy to find also.
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