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#92 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,293
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Isnt it like 3 in the morning by you. Didnt you go to bed like hours ago?
This may clear up everything I tried to teach you. RickRoll.org - You Got Rick Rolled
__________________
I only worry about myself, screw the others. |
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#97 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 179
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Wow. At this point I have a headache. Just because I've forgotten some of the original point, I was just going to look for some clarity.
Elemental -- Here's what I'm understanding. You're saying that in regards to the Rover V8, one should look for an oil with a high sheer rating (which would warrant the ACEA A3/B3 rating?) because of the flat tappet cam. This is all in regards to the Rover V8. In a newer engine with a roller cam, the sheer factor is not as much of an issue because the cam design. Does that sound right? PS - doesn't something like 80% of engine wear occur at startup? |
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#98 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,293
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__________________
I only worry about myself, screw the others. |
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#99 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 179
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SCORE!
btw I had an oil analysis done last year Discovery II Oil Analysis - DiscoWeb Message Boards I think I'm going to keep that up on an annual basis. Though this was done with Castrol - I currently run Rotella 15-40 in the summer months and Rotella synthetic 5-40 in the winter |
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#101 (permalink) |
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Ian Matthews
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 2,134
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Well we finally agree on something. That is you should use as high a viscosity oil as you can while maintaining the minimum xW for your climate. Minimum of 50 and up to 70. That is, the higher the viscosity the higher the shear rating. (for proof if you require it, refer back to the stats I posted for Mobil 1, but applies the same to other oils)
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#103 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mouans Sartoux, France
Posts: 195
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Quote:
![]() Each engine is different and has different needs. In our case, the old LR engine is very different from the present pack and what is good for the pack is not necessarily good for us. 1. The engines use a low pressure high volume oil system. The only secret to this engine's longevity is frequent oil changes, 3000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Use a decent mineral oil, Valvoline or the noted Castrol. Synthetics are designed for long life and high pressure. So they are a waste of money for us. 2. The lifters are made for 20W50 and have been since the Buick 215 beginnings. You can play around with viscosities all you want and not get hurt but it won't change that simple fact. 3. The lifters are flat tappets. I believe that this engine was one of the very last still made with them (outside of farm equipment). In 2004, the EPA indicated that it would force automobile manufactuers to guarrantee a minimum of a 10 year life for catalytic converters (aka cats) by 2009 and offered "emission credits" for earlier compliance. All motor oils have traditionally (75 years) contained an inexpensive additive called zinc dialkyldithiophophate. It coats metal with a glass like film that lasts from 2500-3500 miles, thereby greatly reducing the damage caused by metal to metal contact. However, over time (average of 8 years) it also coats cats to a point where their effectiveness is diminished. To help themselves with this, since 2005 the US auto manufacturers heavily pressured US motor oil companies to remove this additive. They had tested the effect on the presently made engines (which use rollers now, a differnt rocker/lifter system) and saw no damage. The oil companies complied, and have been removing the additive without altering the designation of the oils. To reflect their caution, for the most part they stopped publishing their oil's constituent additives. GM even stopped selling their EOS (engine oil supplement (a heavy concentration of this additive) in the US. Sadly, it has been irrefutably established that the lack of this additive causes bad cam and lifter damage to flat tappet engines during their bedding in period (1000 miles). It is not yet established what (if any) the damage will be on bedded in motors of a long duration but "tapping noises" on start up have become a popular topic on flat tappet engine (LR, Triumph, MG) discussion groups. Some have moved to diesel motor oils like 15W40. As few diesels have cats, this additive levels are still allowed to be high (the old level was 1800 ppm) However, cats are coming for diesels and the diesel oil contain too many detergents for a non-diesel engine. Racing oils still contain high levels, but are to find and hard to pay for find. Problem is the additive is constantly being reduced so what you bought 18 months ago is not be in the same oil you bought today, though the bottle and label indications are the same. The resultant uproar has recently forced GM to bring back its EOS (under a new Delco part) OR the additive is now available in almost pure form in some places. Cam makers will not sell a cam to a flat tappet owner without bottles of the brew. So in answer to Lebevre's question, the answer is yes. When it comes to the old Rover V8's needs, the oils available have become worse...and will continue to do so through 2009 and beyond. It is easy to avoid an issue here if you are aware. If not.... James |
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#104 (permalink) | ||||
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Ian Matthews
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 2,134
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I am not sure why the same old points keep on getting raised. |
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#105 (permalink) |
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Black 2001 Disco SE7 ACE
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 32
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You should also check the manifold/downpipe gasket. I have the same symptoms and the gasket has a crack in it. Once the car warms up, the heat from the exhaust warms it up (expanding the materials around) and the noise goes away. Just a thought.
All the best |
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