First Head Gasket job but I have a few Problems - Land Rovers Only

shpreetzer · 11-01-2009, 07:58 PM

2K1 Disco II. Just completed a head gasket job at home and woohoo it works after I put it back together lol... But a few problems.
1st problem -- Tach is not working. It actually just stopped working before I did the head job but I can't seem to find any info on why it has stopped working.
2nd problem -- M and S flashing on dash. Doesn't seem to be in Limp Mode I drove it up the street and back and seems to be running normal. I have a new reconditioned battery from interstate. I checked the power and ground cables and they are tight and clean, as well made sure I connected the ground to the alternator bracket.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
2000 DII se7
2001 DII se

shpreetzer · 11-01-2009, 08:28 PM

I found some info while doing a google search. When i purchased the Disco the battery was dead and it was in need of a gasket job. Tach worked after jumping it and starting it to get it on the tow dolly. Took it home and started it to get it off the tow dolly and then it sat for a few days. Got it started again to bring it into the garage and tach was no longer working. Could it be the alternator not working? would this cause the tach to not work and further more perhaps the reason for the m and s flashing?

DiscoDream2 · 11-01-2009, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shpreetzer

I found some info while doing a google search. When i purchased the Disco the battery was dead and it was in need of a gasket job. Tach worked after jumping it and starting it to get it on the tow dolly. Took it home and started it to get it off the tow dolly and then it sat for a few days. Got it started again to bring it into the garage and tach was no longer working. Could it be the alternator not working? would this cause the tach to not work and further more perhaps the reason for the m and s flashing?

M + S Flashing is usually an indicator of low voltage battery. Check the battery, under load @ 14v. It happened to me right after head gaskets, I had to do a battery AND a 150 amp fuse in the fuse box. It blew while they were working under there and playing with the alternator and jumping the battery. I also had three batteries in there before we got one the right one...Not rocket science but frustrating enough to know to check the battery, then the fuse. Load test everything alt, batt, clean the ground connections on the fender, everything.

The tach is related to the alternator. Check for loose connections or something not connected. Jumping it can fry the diodes (sp) in the alternator, battery or the fuse or all three. Inspect - test them (14 v at the alternator pos connection - earth) all it's the best way to track it down. If the alternator went it may have take the battery/fuse with it..when a surge from jumping it killed something.

shpreetzer · 11-01-2009, 08:49 PM

Thank You for the reply. I will check all these first thing in the morning, and post my results.

cantflysolo · 11-01-2009, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shpreetzer

Thank You for the reply. I will check all these first thing in the morning, and post my results.

Check any info you can on the transmission as well. The "M" is for manual transmission mode and the "S" is for sport. I think DiscoDream summed everything else up really well. I had some alternator trouble too. It can be a pain. I went through all my wires the old school way to figure it out. When I did the head gaskets, I had some little issues as well, but I would follow her advice and see what happens. But hey, awesome job doing it yourself. Nothing better than knowing your engine inside and out.

mbrummal · 11-01-2009, 10:05 PM

Hey, People, the alternator does not have a damn thing to with the tach on theses trucks. The ECM sends a signal to the instrument cluster.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAVE Manual

The input for the tachometer is from the ECM. It is a digital signal at 2 pulses per engine revolution. When the ignition is switched on with the engine not running, the ECM will generates pulses equivalent to 228 rev/min for diagnostic
purposes. The tachometer will not register a reading, as it only indicate engine speeds above 228 rev/min.

DiscoDream2 · 11-01-2009, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbrummal

Hey, People, the alternator does not have a damn thing to with the tach on theses trucks. The ECM sends a signal to the instrument cluster.

Then check that off the list, one less thing to worry about. Then why doesn't the tach work?

mbrummal · 11-01-2009, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiscoDream2

Then check that off the list, one less thing to worry about. Then why doesn't the tach work?

Wiring or bad instrument cluster. If the engine runs, the ECM knows the speed. Check the wiring to the instrument cluster. If it is good, the problem is likely the cluster itself.

shpreetzer · 11-02-2009, 04:52 AM

Hey guys thanks for all the replies. Before I start is there any chance that it could be a bad CKP, please excuse me if this is a dumb question however I am not a mechanic and just learning the ropes thanks to rave and the manual. I actually changed oil for the first time in my life about 4 months ago lol

p76rangie · 11-02-2009, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiscoDream2

If the alternator went it may have take the battery/fuse with it..when a surge from jumping it killed something.

The surge usually hits the car supplying the power rather than the one receiving it. You should always make sure that you switch off the vehicle providing the power before disconnecting the jumper leads. What happens is that the alternator in the vehicle providing the power is going flat out trying to charge the battery in the flat car. It you disconnect with the car still running the alternator suddenly has nowhere to put the power it is producing and can fry the computer systems within the car.

shpreetzer · 11-02-2009, 05:40 AM

I tested the battery while engine was off it read 12.6 and when running it was at 14.6-14.8. I also checked all fuses and found one 40 amp fuse under the hood that was blown. I am hoping it is the A/C fuse cause she said it wasn't working when I bought it. I will have to check with rave to be certain. I will now disconnect everything and clean all contacts and repost. Thanks guys

shpreetzer · 11-02-2009, 06:54 AM

I cleaned everything and I thought I was good when I turned it on but within a few seconds they were flashing again. I realized that if I turn the key and wait a few seconds that the lights start to flash even before the engine is started. Hope this helps for someone to diagnose.

DiscoDream2 · 11-02-2009, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shpreetzer

Hey guys thanks for all the replies. Before I start is there any chance that it could be a bad CKP, please excuse me if this is a dumb question however I am not a mechanic and just learning the ropes thanks to rave and the manual. I actually changed oil for the first time in my life about 4 months ago lol

Not related to the alternator issue.., but you have to run down the list of simple stuff first...sry

shpreetzer · 11-02-2009, 12:42 PM

here is an update on my findings:
1) Tach & speedometer not working, m&s flashing, When in Drive D flashing.
2) Checked voltage with engine off 12.6. Checked with engine running 14.1.
3) Cleaned connections at battery, on firewall, alternator bracket, and bracket behind battery.
4) Used a pair of booster cables and attached to engine and body to see if there was a ground issue.
5) Tried a different battery an (old one) not in the best of shape and experienced true limp mode as it would only go in drive, didn't appear to switch gears.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

nasa25 · 11-02-2009, 01:01 PM

for your tranny issue, look at a faulty xyz switch