front brake job

[REFERJOHN]

will be getting 01' DII this weekend, plan on doing front rotors, plus pads..
that being said-never have worked on a rover. will i need special tools for this job,got plenty of all basic tools. do i need tamper-proof, or spline drive
style sockets... whats the skinny those dba rotors or OEM rotors.
and will kevlar pads work on OEM,if so what kind are they. thanks 4 help

[rmuller]

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/disco2brakes/

An excellent write up on this.

[Roverhound]

Originally Posted by rmuller

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/disco2brakes/

An excellent write up on this.

Just don't buy from EE without some kind of lube.
The only thing you'll need that might be a little different is a 12 point 19mm socket. Also an impact driver if the phillips screw that holds the rotor in place is siezed.
As a matter of fact, it's a good idea, if you're going to work on your truck much, to get a set of 12 points in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drives. LR seemed to like the 12 point bolt when they made these trucks.

[Disco Mike]

Are you buying this truck from a dealer, if so have them do the brakes.
If not, how many miles on the truck, this will be a good indicator of rotor replacement.
Other then a impact driver for the philips screw, you don't really need any special tools.
Make sure you do a brake fluid flush so you can regain a firmer pedal.
Mike J.

[REFERJOHN]

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

Are you buying this truck from a dealer, if so have them do the brakes.
If not, how many miles on the truck, this will be a good indicator of rotor replacement.
Other then a impact driver for the philips screw, you don't really need any special tools.
Make sure you do a brake fluid flush so you can regain a firmer pedal.
Mike J.

from father in law,46,000 miles on the truck. the rear pads have been replaced sometime back....not fronts. dealer said 3mm thickness left on front pads. don't know which rotors or pads to get. has 18" wheels,plan on oneday
to get 16" wheels, will i need to switch rotors when switching wheels

[Muddy Oval]

oem rotors are cheaper and will work just like the original ones- nothing wrong with that at all. The DBA's are sexy, more money and should be used with kevlar pads. don't mix kevlar pads with stock type rotors though.
DBA's are blingy, but unless it's disposable income for giggles- I'd just do oem replacements. Lockheed/Delphi/Ferodo are oem suppliers.

[Disco Mike]

John,
That is strange, cause usually the front pads always go first, OH WELL.
If you don't feel any brake fade or shuttering when stopping hard, I wouldn't worry about the rotors, they are probably getting thin but OK.
As for going to 16" wheels later, this will have no effect on whatever pads and rotors you are using, they all take the same.
Make sure you get all new brake fluid for sure whatever you do.
Good luck,
Mike J.

[REFERJOHN]

mike.. i totally agree= front pads go first,plus this truck never been offroad????

[REFERJOHN]

.... Lockheed/Delphi/Ferodo are oem suppliers.[/quote] ,

are you talkn bout rotors, as i think i will use genuine rover pads, or should i
use recomended above brands thanks steve

[Muddy Oval]

You can buy a lockheed/delphi pad in a lockheed/delphi box or you can buy the same pads that Land Rover bought from lockheed/delphi and put in their own box. Same pads, different price.

Rear brakes wear faster on DII's than on DI's because of the electronic brake force distribution that acts as an "anti-dive" mechanism to make braking less jarring to the body of the truck.

[REFERJOHN]

Originally Posted by Muddy Oval

You can buy a lockheed/delphi pad in a lockheed/delphi box or you can buy the same pads that Land Rover bought from lockheed/delphi and put in their own box. Same pads, different price.

Rear brakes wear faster on DII's than on DI's because of the electronic brake force distribution that acts as an "anti-dive" mechanism to make braking less jarring to the body of the truck.

thanks mud--good info on "anti-dive" mechanism