Hi
Front crankshaft seal .
When you get the harmonic balancer / crankshaft pulley off check for a groove in the outer sealing surface (they sometimes wear where the seal contacts it. There are repair sleeves available I believe if it is grooved.
Also check for any signs of cracking at the keyway (had one cracked badly on my last d2.
Seal replacement is straightforward, pop it out and press the new one in.
Hope this helps.
With the sleeves, you'll typically find them at auto parts stores cataloged by vehicle application. They tend to be expensive that way. I buy mine at a local bearing supply house and find that they're significantly less expensive. But you have to do your own homework on finding the size you need. If you take the balancer with you and are nice to them, they will probably mic it for you.
I've never looked, but I'd guess on an oddball application now gone 13 years, it's probably not in anyone's book.
I don't see a procedure for this in the RAVE.
Is it that simple to do that it doesn't even need to be in there?
I just want to lookout for rover specific "press it on this particular way" type stuff, etc.
PS, also having a little trouble finding the crankshaft repair sleeve - at least not seeing online at my local autoparts store websites.
Any more specific part info would be greatly appreciated.
sobieski, this is a straight forward repair as redtruck and CT have stated. You have to look at the pulley shaft to see if the groove is there, if by some chance it's not cut, polishing it and replacing the seal should suffice, if the pulley is grooved, get the sleeve either from a machine shop or a supplier as stated in other posts. Either way, removing the belts and the pulley is straight forward.
Thanks Doug.
I am pretty sure i'll need the sleeve, so i'd like to have in-hand before even starting.
But, as usual, most folks (machine shop, suppliers etc.) need me to be very very specific on stuff for this truck - like exact size of the sleeve or exact part # - and i'm having trouble finding the sleeve at my local parts store.
Are you working only with hand tools or do you have access to air tools?
Should be an easy brrrap with a 1/2 inch gun if you have it
Or an alternative method using a breaker bar (smack it wit a mallet)
The 3rd is not for the inexperienced or faint of heart ( breaker bar jammed up against the frame and cranking the engine over) kind of a last resort and sort of dangerous
Hand tools only.
I think I'm ok with bliping the engine, but will certainly try the mallet first.
Just to confirm, that pulley bolt is clockwise-tight, counterclockwise-loose (when facing the truck, looking toward the rear) just lke the viscous fan - correct?
I looked last night and I don't have a stray balancer sitting around. There's a core buried in the back of my shop storage and I can pull the balancer and mic it, but not until Saturday- if you can wait.
If you have an old ratchet and a 3 lb hammer, you can probably pop the bolt loose. but then you have the problem of pulling torque on it when you tighten it.
Another trick: You can pull a plug and fish a foot or so of cotton clothes line through the spark plug hole. This will compress between the head and the piston, effectively blocking the engine from rotating on the compression stroke. Don't put too much in there as you want both valves to be closed as it is conceivable you could bend one if it were off the seat. Confirm the engine is on the compression stroke by pulling the plug and rotating until it's pushing your finger from the empty plug hole.
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