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Old 02-26-2006, 06:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default front crossmember

when i install my 2" rte lift on my d2 do i need to remove the front crassmember? it looks like the front drive shaft is going to be really close to it! i will be installing this sunday so let me know! also, are rte brake lines easy to install? and i am assuming the shorter ones go in the front...is this correct?
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Tomorrow morning call RTE and order thier crossmember spacers. DO NOT REMOVE YOUR CROSSMEMBER....you want your vehicle's frame to be stronger, not weaker.

They are $25...just let them know you need them by next sunday (in case they need to be air shipped)

RTE, and other extended brake lines are very easy to install. Check your manual and buy the proper brake fluid....I used Valvoline Synthetic (exceeds DOT 3 and 4, and mixes with all other brake fluids). I dont recall what went where....it should be on your invoice though (ie. xx" front brake lines $xx.xx), if you still cant find it, PM me and I will search for mine. Anyhow, install and bleed the brakes in the proper order, one at a time....its on the RAVE CD, if you cant find the order just ask.



Im not sure for a 2" (probably more like 3") RTE lift, but if the ABS lines look like they may be pulling all you have to do is remove them from where they are "holstered" (little rubber sleaves hold them to various mounts), and then attach them to the brake lines to keep them out of the way of being caught on something.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here, the DII bleed sequence and bleed valve on the callipers.
Attached Thumbnails
front-crossmember-bleed-sequence.jpg  front-crossmember-bleed-valve.jpg  
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Your driveshaft WILL contact the crossmember with extended shocks. You can remove the crossmember temporarily though- it won't hurt anything. Many, many people remove them for good. I'm putting a driveshaft loop in mine so if the front shaft breaks loose it won't hurt anything.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keptin
Volvoline Synthetic
Is that for Volvos?
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddy Oval
Your driveshaft WILL contact the crossmember with extended shocks. You can remove the crossmember temporarily though- it won't hurt anything. Many, many people remove them for good. I'm putting a driveshaft loop in mine so if the front shaft breaks loose it won't hurt anything.
I have heard of people removing them.....its just not worth it for $25.....if its about getting it out of the way...there are other, better, ways to do that. I like the loop idea....perhaps I will do something like that once we get into making all the plates and bumper.


Quote:
Is that for Volvos?
opps
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well, he can take it off until he gets the spacers or welds a loop in there or something. It can be driven without it without worries.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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agreed....there wont be any problems with regular driving....unless he gets into an accident.

The problem comes with off-roading....structural torque from frame twisting, and harsh slams, etc..

...Drum, if you order the spacers soon they will arrive in short time. Instead of going through the work of removing the crossmember, you could just leave it on and not off-road for a few days.....though.....be careful on speed bumps. The spacers should arrive by next sunday....ask steve how much it would be to upgrade the shipping.....probably not much considering the box was about 4"x3"x3" and 1 pound.


On another note, have you removed your swaybars yet...or thought about quick disconnects?
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Um- actually that's not a structurally stressed crossmember- it's only held on with M6 low grade bolts. It's more of a driveshaft catcher than a "real" crossmember. The frame ain't gonna twist at all without it- the structural crossmembers are all welded.
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hmm.....one would think that if all it did was catch the driveshaft then land rover wouldnt have spent the money (even if it were $5) on it.....

I still wouldnt take it out if I really didnt have to......even if I had a 5" lift I would probably do a loop thing like you are suggesting.
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keptin
Here, the DII bleed sequence and bleed valve on the callipers.
Josh,
Where did you get this this chart on brake bleeding, I have alway been told and seen the rotation of bleeding starting on the r/r then l/r up to the r/f and l/f with the idea that you start at the the wheel the is farthest away from the mastercylinder working closer as you go.
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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That is what it shows in the RAVE CD under a left hand drive DII.
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