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#1 (permalink) |
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He did what in his cup???
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: GA
Posts: 1,005
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What is the best option for upgrading the front drive shaft. No problems yet (knock on wood) I just want to do some PM on the vehicle. I have almost 54k on it, and I'll probably be doing the 60k service early summer. I heard a strange noise this weekend I think it was just the wind hitting parts of the Rover becasue it was a harmonic type sound. I instantly started getting nervous and thought, Front Drive Shaft. My wife heard it too. I had the little one in the back about 100 miles from home and would feel better knowing that we would not get stranded for not doing something I knew was going to happen.
No one in my area really wants to touch the rover and the ones that do are hard to find or want $$$. I would not mind doing it myself but I'd pay to get it done righ the first time. The options so far are. A complete Tom Woods Drive Shaft (double cardan) $269-$379(Which one to get?)http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html OR PRECISION Part # 344 {U Joint - Premium} with PRECISION Part # 617 (Centering Kit) OR Spicer 5-4x with PRECISION Part # 617 (Centering Kit) OR PDQ NEACO 1-0005 U-JOINTS (similar to a '93 Volvo 240) Which one would be the best solution? A rebuilt drive shaft or a whole new drive shave with greaseable fittings? Are they both equally just as good?
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'04 Discovery SE7. Last of the best.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,329
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Rebuild the shaft using which ever of the u-joint you like best, they are both good quality u-joints. Also put a grease fitting in each of the drive shafts slip joints where the small plug is now. They need lots of grease.
Mike |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 47
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I helped rebuild the front drive-shaft on Cboy's (Eric) '04 DII this past weekend. We used the 344 joints and the 617 centering kit from Napa.
Not too bad though it took a few hours. Having greaseable joints there now should help going forward. I'll definitely upgrade on my '04 DII when needed. AndrewT |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,329
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Don't wait and do it when needed. My first set were fried at about 36,000 miles, I mean the bearings were dust.
You wait till they are needed and you may be replacing your tranny also. Mike |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Harrisonburg, Virginia
Posts: 708
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Don't get the NAPA u-joints. They are shit.
If you can get REAL Precision 344's great. Be careful though, as with NAPA, if you ask for a 344 you may not get a Precision u-joint. The Spicers are discontinued. Some people say they're around but they never say where. I'd go with the Auto Zone PDQ 1-0005's. Only $15 bucks a piece and readily available with the grease fitting on the end cap for easy access. These are actual Neapco u-joints made in the USA. If you want the Precision u-joints the best price is at www.rockauto.com The centering kit is available at rock auto too.
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It just doesn't matter. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Harrisonburg, Virginia
Posts: 708
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Quote:
But if you have that drive shaft off let's just replace those u-joints!
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It just doesn't matter. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Member
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Thanks all |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,329
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You need the front drive shaft to have a constant velocity joint, some up grade will have two but that is usually for tall lifts.
Yes, slip a grease fitting into the plug hole on each of the slip shafts and grease them real good, this will keep the splines from binding up on hard stop and can take a little of the klunk out of the drive train . Mike |
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