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Old 04-09-2007, 10:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default FRONT DRIVE SHAFT '04 DII 54k miles

What is the best option for upgrading the front drive shaft. No problems yet (knock on wood) I just want to do some PM on the vehicle. I have almost 54k on it, and I'll probably be doing the 60k service early summer. I heard a strange noise this weekend I think it was just the wind hitting parts of the Rover becasue it was a harmonic type sound. I instantly started getting nervous and thought, Front Drive Shaft. My wife heard it too. I had the little one in the back about 100 miles from home and would feel better knowing that we would not get stranded for not doing something I knew was going to happen.

No one in my area really wants to touch the rover and the ones that do are hard to find or want $$$. I would not mind doing it myself but I'd pay to get it done righ the first time. The options so far are.

A complete Tom Woods Drive Shaft (double cardan) $269-$379(Which one to get?)http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
OR
PRECISION Part # 344 {U Joint - Premium} with PRECISION Part # 617 (Centering Kit)
OR
Spicer 5-4x with PRECISION Part # 617 (Centering Kit)
OR
PDQ NEACO 1-0005 U-JOINTS (similar to a '93 Volvo 240)

Which one would be the best solution? A rebuilt drive shaft or a whole new drive shave with greaseable fittings? Are they both equally just as good?
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Old 04-09-2007, 12:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Rebuild the shaft using which ever of the u-joint you like best, they are both good quality u-joints. Also put a grease fitting in each of the drive shafts slip joints where the small plug is now. They need lots of grease.
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Old 04-09-2007, 01:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I helped rebuild the front drive-shaft on Cboy's (Eric) '04 DII this past weekend. We used the 344 joints and the 617 centering kit from Napa.

Not too bad though it took a few hours. Having greaseable joints there now should help going forward. I'll definitely upgrade on my '04 DII when needed.

AndrewT
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Old 04-09-2007, 02:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't wait and do it when needed. My first set were fried at about 36,000 miles, I mean the bearings were dust.
You wait till they are needed and you may be replacing your tranny also.
Mike
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Old 04-09-2007, 04:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Don't get the NAPA u-joints. They are shit.
If you can get REAL Precision 344's great. Be careful though, as with NAPA, if you ask for a 344 you may not get a Precision u-joint.
The Spicers are discontinued. Some people say they're around but they never say where.
I'd go with the Auto Zone PDQ 1-0005's. Only $15 bucks a piece and readily available with the grease fitting on the end cap for easy access. These are actual Neapco u-joints made in the USA.
If you want the Precision u-joints the best price is at www.rockauto.com
The centering kit is available at rock auto too.
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Mike
Don't wait and do it when needed. My first set were fried at about 36,000 miles, I mean the bearings were dust.
You wait till they are needed and you may be replacing your tranny also.
Mike
Mike , is this something I can get addressed in warranty by the dealer or is it a wait till it fails deal???
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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No, the dealer won't do anything about it till it fails. I would suggest that if it doesn't fail by the time the warranty expires that you then have it fixed ASAP.
Mike
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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HOw do you tell when it is starting to go? Anyway to check it form under the vehicle?
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Discoandaboat
HOw do you tell when it is starting to go? Anyway to check it form under the vehicle?
Unless it's obviously failing there is no way to really tell just by looking at it. You'll need to pull the drive shaft and rotate the joints by hand. They should move freely without hanging up or catching anywhere in thier motion. They should not feel rough in the travel, no grinding and no grittiness.
But if you have that drive shaft off let's just replace those u-joints!
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Old 04-10-2007, 05:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You may hear it click as you start to speed up from a stop, or the drive shaft will start to vibrate badily.
Mike
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Arrow DII front driveshafts


Hi all, anyone with one of the rebulit units willing to post some clear pix of the the shaft after conversion?
I thought they had a dual CV on them and that gave the trouble?

Thnanl you
Oliver
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Old 04-14-2007, 02:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If you have the constant velocity joint rebuilt, the only difference will be that both the internal u-jointd will have grease fitting on them.
Mike
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Old 04-14-2007, 02:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Would it be a good idea to put grease plugs in the slip joints now and lube it up or would that cause warranty issues ???
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Old 04-14-2007, 03:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Mike
If you have the constant velocity joint rebuilt, the only difference will be that both the internal u-jointd will have grease fitting on them.
Mike
Hi, so do you need to have the dual CV or can you just have a single (strong) universal joint? I guess that needs to be greasable as does the spline? what about the other end of the shaft? Do you rebuild (or replace that too?)
Thanks all
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You need the front drive shaft to have a constant velocity joint, some up grade will have two but that is usually for tall lifts.
Yes, slip a grease fitting into the plug hole on each of the slip shafts and grease them real good, this will keep the splines from binding up on hard stop and can take a little of the klunk out of the drive train .
Mike
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