Front Drive Shaft Repair? - Land Rovers Only

superpowerdave · 10-07-2006, 09:48 AM

Okay, here goes, because I'm mechanically inept:

The vibration lots of people talk about having on their DIIs is most likely the culprit I'm dealing with. I'm dropping the shaft this afternoon to be certain, but in hopes of being as educated as possible when going in there I've a few questions.

There are posts mentioning both repairing and replacing the drive shaft if it is indeed going bad. The previous owner had some work done apparently because my u-joints have zerks fitted. If it is indeed the drive shaft, does this mean the u-joints are bad and I need to replace those? Or does this mean I need to buy a whole new shaft, u-joints and all?

Any intel on this would be appreciated.

jhmover · 10-07-2006, 10:43 AM

Have them check the double cardon joint (like a ball and socket), they usually chirp like a canary when they go out, but that could be the problem or part of it. I had a zerk added for that when I had the shaft rebuilt so it' got grease, too.

superpowerdave · 10-07-2006, 11:05 AM

JHMover-

I do have the chirp you referred to ... depending on the advice I received here I was just going to replace the u-joints. I had it on a lift yesterday and noticed I had some rotational play, which felt normal, but then where the shaft bolts to the transfer case there was some horizontal play, which didn't seem normal. As far as having your drive shaft rebuilt was that something you had to have done at a shop somewhere?

Any help is appreciated-

Dave

jhmover · 10-07-2006, 11:15 AM

Just find a reliable driveshaft repair shop, should be plenty in NASCAR country.

I had mine rebuilt when I busted a u-joint on the front driveshaft. I had u-joints with zerk fittings installed. I drove it about a week, then the chirp started. I was wondering what it was so I jacked up the front end and put it on jack stands, put the transfer case in neutral and started spinning a front wheel. I could hear chirp chirp chirp. So I had my son spin the wheel while I got underneath, sure as hell if was coming from the front driveshaft. I took it off and sent it back. They fixed the problem and installed a zerk so the double cardan could be greased, too. Then I never had another problem. Having the busted u-joint probably allowed it so be out of tolerence which screwed the double cardan up, too.

If you can replace u-joints I'd try that first, then it it still chirps you'll have to send it out or replace it with a new driveshaft.

camper · 10-19-2006, 05:12 PM

I don't know if this will help but are all the drive shafts the same? I have a 99 disco II and it has a zerk on the front u joint but the rear connection does not have any zerks. Also the shaft itself has an allen head screw where I think a zerk should be. There is a zerk on the rear shaft. I guess the question is what are the shafts orgianlly installed with discovery. Did they have zerks?

C

OkieRover · 10-20-2006, 07:34 AM

I read somewhere that the installation of a zerk would imbalance the shaft so they put a allenhead screw in it's place for you to remove, replace with a zerk, grease, and switch it back to the allenhead.
But I read that on the internet and you know what that means...

jhmover · 10-20-2006, 07:40 AM

When they did the rebuild and zerks in my 01 they re-balanced it.

OkieRover · 10-20-2006, 08:50 AM

That's how I would have done it or had it done as well.

camper · 10-20-2006, 11:19 AM

Well I took my front shaft down as well. Noticed there are no zerks on the rear cardon(sp). Anyhow the vehicle does not move. Should the rear shaft turn? I read about a cdl on 99 disco II could it be disengaged? Does it engage the rear wheels? It would seem it should engage the front ones but front wheel drive is nice without rear wheel drive. We did get hit from behind
by a honda which was totalled. Boy these toys are strong.
Anyhow could it have disengaged something?

By the way where to get the driveshaft rebuilt or replaced?

C

Disco Mike · 10-20-2006, 11:43 AM

C.
To drive your truck after removing the front drive shaft you must engage the CDL, then you will have power to your rear axle. Need to get under the t/case, find the CDL nub and turn it with a wrench and your set.
Mike

camper · 10-20-2006, 01:07 PM

Thanks Mike. Just took a test drive and the click/clack is gone. However the problem now is what was making the noise. The only thing I can find on the shaft is the telescoping slides on splines I guess and when you rotate I can hear the noise. Like this thing has never been lubricated. I quess I will attach a zerk to the place where the allen head screw is and test to see if this was the noise. Should have done that before taking it down. I assume the zerk is not there not because of balance but it could easily sheer off. They do have one for the spline on the rear shaft. My guess it has never been lubed.

I did pick Monty D. Rover up from a friend who leased it for awhile and decided to just get rid of it. He did routine mantience at the quick lube and
obviously they did not lube this.

Thanks very much Mike I will wait till things are back together and I can eliminate what makes the noise.

I am not real clear on the cdl. As I understand from reading the Center Diff
joins the front and rear together. So in normal operation it appears that only the front shaft is driven. While the rear shaft is driven when 4 wheel is engaged. Would explain that the front shaft is doing most of the work plus
the exhaust being close to the joints.

The little light is on indicating that 4 wheel is engaged.

Hard to beleive that this was to the dealer and a local shop with no idea.
Hopefully it is the shaft or at least the spline connection maybe that is
why the sound is different.

Current logging of sounds - chirping (the center of the double u joint)
clicking - dry or bad needle bearing in u joint
clacking - possible free play in spline

Disco Mike · 10-20-2006, 01:25 PM

The noise is your double cardon, need to have some shop rebuild and balance it and you'll be fine.
As for the splines on both drive shafts keep them lubed.
Mike

BenLittle · 10-20-2006, 02:29 PM

Or you could do it yourself.

Precision# 344
Precision# 617
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2392

Instructions on how to rebuild:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driv...iveshaft-1.htm

Lock the CDL with a 10mm box end wrench.

Disco Mike · 10-20-2006, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BenLittle

Or you could do it yourself.

Precision# 344
Precision# 617
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2392

Instructions on how to rebuild:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driv...iveshaft-1.htm

Lock the CDL with a 10mm box end wrench.

I wouldn't suggest that you do the rebuild on a double cardon if you have not done then in the past. If you do it and it fails, you can loose a tranny and or the t/case, to me it is not worth the chance.
Mike

camper · 10-20-2006, 04:31 PM

Thanks to all of you for your invaluable help. It is not the cost of the parts or the labor (ok some of it is) but the help is much more important. I see the shafts have the old style c clips that allow you to pull it apart. I will at least look at it and I assume that the lube in the u joints will look like cork. I will post what I find.

I did put the shaft back up with the lube put still have the clack.

Again thanks for all the help.

C

10-07-2006, 09:48 AM	#1 (permalink)
superpowerdave Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Goldsboro, NC Posts: 118 Gallery: 0	Front Drive Shaft Repair? Okay, here goes, because I'm mechanically inept: The vibration lots of people talk about having on their DIIs is most likely the culprit I'm dealing with. I'm dropping the shaft this afternoon to be certain, but in hopes of being as educated as possible when going in there I've a few questions. There are posts mentioning both repairing and replacing the drive shaft if it is indeed going bad. The previous owner had some work done apparently because my u-joints have zerks fitted. If it is indeed the drive shaft, does this mean the u-joints are bad and I need to replace those? Or does this mean I need to buy a whole new shaft, u-joints and all? Any intel on this would be appreciated. __________________ 2000 Discovery II 2000 Range Rover P38 1995 LWB RRC 1973 Series Buchanan Family Home Rover Alley

10-07-2006, 11:05 AM	#3 (permalink)
superpowerdave Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Goldsboro, NC Posts: 118 Gallery: 0	JHMover- I do have the chirp you referred to ... depending on the advice I received here I was just going to replace the u-joints. I had it on a lift yesterday and noticed I had some rotational play, which felt normal, but then where the shaft bolts to the transfer case there was some horizontal play, which didn't seem normal. As far as having your drive shaft rebuilt was that something you had to have done at a shop somewhere? Any help is appreciated- Dave __________________ 2000 Discovery II 2000 Range Rover P38 1995 LWB RRC 1973 Series Buchanan Family Home Rover Alley

10-20-2006, 02:29 PM	#13 (permalink)
BenLittle Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 29 Gallery: 0	Or you could do it yourself. Precision# 344 Precision# 617 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2392 Instructions on how to rebuild: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driv...iveshaft-1.htm Lock the CDL with a 10mm box end wrench. __________________ WaSaTcH RoVeRs

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10-07-2006, 10:43 AM	#2 (permalink)
jhmover Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 310 Gallery: 0	Have them check the double cardon joint (like a ball and socket), they usually chirp like a canary when they go out, but that could be the problem or part of it. I had a zerk added for that when I had the shaft rebuilt so it' got grease, too.

10-07-2006, 11:15 AM	#4 (permalink)
jhmover Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 310 Gallery: 0	Just find a reliable driveshaft repair shop, should be plenty in NASCAR country. I had mine rebuilt when I busted a u-joint on the front driveshaft. I had u-joints with zerk fittings installed. I drove it about a week, then the chirp started. I was wondering what it was so I jacked up the front end and put it on jack stands, put the transfer case in neutral and started spinning a front wheel. I could hear chirp chirp chirp. So I had my son spin the wheel while I got underneath, sure as hell if was coming from the front driveshaft. I took it off and sent it back. They fixed the problem and installed a zerk so the double cardan could be greased, too. Then I never had another problem. Having the busted u-joint probably allowed it so be out of tolerence which screwed the double cardan up, too. If you can replace u-joints I'd try that first, then it it still chirps you'll have to send it out or replace it with a new driveshaft.

10-19-2006, 05:12 PM	#5 (permalink)
camper Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 10 Gallery: 0	I don't know if this will help but are all the drive shafts the same? I have a 99 disco II and it has a zerk on the front u joint but the rear connection does not have any zerks. Also the shaft itself has an allen head screw where I think a zerk should be. There is a zerk on the rear shaft. I guess the question is what are the shafts orgianlly installed with discovery. Did they have zerks? C

10-20-2006, 07:40 AM	#7 (permalink)
jhmover Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 310 Gallery: 0	When they did the rebuild and zerks in my 01 they re-balanced it.

10-20-2006, 11:19 AM	#9 (permalink)
camper Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 10 Gallery: 0	Well I took my front shaft down as well. Noticed there are no zerks on the rear cardon(sp). Anyhow the vehicle does not move. Should the rear shaft turn? I read about a cdl on 99 disco II could it be disengaged? Does it engage the rear wheels? It would seem it should engage the front ones but front wheel drive is nice without rear wheel drive. We did get hit from behind by a honda which was totalled. Boy these toys are strong. Anyhow could it have disengaged something? By the way where to get the driveshaft rebuilt or replaced? C

10-20-2006, 11:43 AM	#10 (permalink)
Disco Mike Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 5,771 Gallery: 0	C. To drive your truck after removing the front drive shaft you must engage the CDL, then you will have power to your rear axle. Need to get under the t/case, find the CDL nub and turn it with a wrench and your set. Mike

10-20-2006, 01:07 PM	#11 (permalink)
camper Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 10 Gallery: 0	Thanks Mike. Just took a test drive and the click/clack is gone. However the problem now is what was making the noise. The only thing I can find on the shaft is the telescoping slides on splines I guess and when you rotate I can hear the noise. Like this thing has never been lubricated. I quess I will attach a zerk to the place where the allen head screw is and test to see if this was the noise. Should have done that before taking it down. I assume the zerk is not there not because of balance but it could easily sheer off. They do have one for the spline on the rear shaft. My guess it has never been lubed. I did pick Monty D. Rover up from a friend who leased it for awhile and decided to just get rid of it. He did routine mantience at the quick lube and obviously they did not lube this. Thanks very much Mike I will wait till things are back together and I can eliminate what makes the noise. I am not real clear on the cdl. As I understand from reading the Center Diff joins the front and rear together. So in normal operation it appears that only the front shaft is driven. While the rear shaft is driven when 4 wheel is engaged. Would explain that the front shaft is doing most of the work plus the exhaust being close to the joints. The little light is on indicating that 4 wheel is engaged. Hard to beleive that this was to the dealer and a local shop with no idea. Hopefully it is the shaft or at least the spline connection maybe that is why the sound is different. Current logging of sounds - chirping (the center of the double u joint) clicking - dry or bad needle bearing in u joint clacking - possible free play in spline

10-20-2006, 01:25 PM	#12 (permalink)
Disco Mike Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 5,771 Gallery: 0	The noise is your double cardon, need to have some shop rebuild and balance it and you'll be fine. As for the splines on both drive shafts keep them lubed. Mike

10-20-2006, 04:31 PM	#15 (permalink)
camper Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 10 Gallery: 0	Thanks to all of you for your invaluable help. It is not the cost of the parts or the labor (ok some of it is) but the help is much more important. I see the shafts have the old style c clips that allow you to pull it apart. I will at least look at it and I assume that the lube in the u joints will look like cork. I will post what I find. I did put the shaft back up with the lube put still have the clack. Again thanks for all the help. C

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