Getting new rotors for my Disco II - Land Rovers Only

DuckHunter · 09-09-2004, 09:08 AM

Hello all,

I've got to get new rear pads and rotors for my disco. The Land Rover dealer is going to bill me $580.00 for the job! I was looking on the net for parts as that seems I can buy the parts a lot cheeper than the dealer. I found rotors priced at $45-$130. ea. Have any of you used the after market rotors and pads. And if so, is that all I need to buy if I am going to do the job myself.

In addition I was considering the (Slotted and cross drilled rotors) I do a lot of towing and I read that the drilled/slotted rotors work and last better than the stock.

Any help would be great.

Disco Mike · 09-09-2004, 10:05 AM

So what are you going to be doing with your truck? Do you 4wheel much, haul big loads? How many miles on your truck?
Yes there are some good deals on aftermarket rotors and pads. You do have to be careful as to what you buy though, so you don't loose stopping power or get a bad case of the brake squeaks.
Mike J.

DuckHunter · 09-09-2004, 10:34 AM

I have 60k on my truck. 90% of the time I'm driving on the hwy going to work. I do tow a 21' boat and I do going off roading 2-3 times a year. I do like the drilled and slotted rotors, but I do not at all costs want to get the squeks. PLease advise on rotors and pads

dent · 09-09-2004, 02:05 PM

got mine from http://www.discountbritishparts.com/ though i got it for D1. Heard from people that the Mintex is not as good but i've not had any problems with them.
Might want to check out lockheed or ferodo.. forget which one makes it for lr for the D2's...
as for slotted/ drilled.. can't help you out there sorry
sam

onslow · 09-09-2004, 02:37 PM

the slotted/drilled discs allow quicker cooling and also knock the glaze of the pads allowing more efficient braking however they are mainly aimed the performance car market.

The disco brakes where designed to take a lot of punishment and therefore up to stop anything that can be legally towed behind the vehicle so a 21 foot boat and trailer will cause no problems,I have towed similar loads with my old 84 rangie with no trouble.

The job itself is not difficult allow 2 hours per side if you are just pottering about certainly a worthwhile saving doing it your self.Would advise that you dont buy the cheapest components available,offset some of the money you will save doing it yourself into buying good quality discs and pads.

Cheers ONz
(oh yes rotors are called discs in the UK just to clarify

)

PTSchram · 09-09-2004, 05:29 PM

$580 is a more than fair price for that job, if you were not inclined to do it yourself.

I have done four or five in the last few weeks. Expect a few issues.
1: The retaining screw may be a real bear to remove. It is not a philips head, but Pozi-Drive, #4. The screw is 8 * 1.25 if you need to replace it.

2: The rotors may be seized to the hub. We use a die grinder with a wire brush to try to clean up the hub. Often times, a two-jaw puller is needed.

3: the fronts will require a 19 m/m or 3/4 12-point socket and breaker bar, they're tight.

Lemme know if you need anymore insight.

Peace,
PT

09-09-2004, 09:08 AM	#1 (permalink)
DuckHunter Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Atlanta, Georgia USA Posts: 4 Gallery: 0	Getting new rotors for my Disco II Hello all, I've got to get new rear pads and rotors for my disco. The Land Rover dealer is going to bill me $580.00 for the job! I was looking on the net for parts as that seems I can buy the parts a lot cheeper than the dealer. I found rotors priced at $45-$130. ea. Have any of you used the after market rotors and pads. And if so, is that all I need to buy if I am going to do the job myself. In addition I was considering the (Slotted and cross drilled rotors) I do a lot of towing and I read that the drilled/slotted rotors work and last better than the stock. Any help would be great.

09-09-2004, 02:37 PM	#5 (permalink)
onslow Series Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: The Lake district,UK Posts: 532 Gallery: 0	brakes the slotted/drilled discs allow quicker cooling and also knock the glaze of the pads allowing more efficient braking however they are mainly aimed the performance car market. The disco brakes where designed to take a lot of punishment and therefore up to stop anything that can be legally towed behind the vehicle so a 21 foot boat and trailer will cause no problems,I have towed similar loads with my old 84 rangie with no trouble. The job itself is not difficult allow 2 hours per side if you are just pottering about certainly a worthwhile saving doing it your self.Would advise that you dont buy the cheapest components available,offset some of the money you will save doing it yourself into buying good quality discs and pads. Cheers ONz (oh yes rotors are called discs in the UK just to clarify )

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09-09-2004, 10:05 AM	#2 (permalink)
Disco Mike Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 5,131 Gallery: 0	So what are you going to be doing with your truck? Do you 4wheel much, haul big loads? How many miles on your truck? Yes there are some good deals on aftermarket rotors and pads. You do have to be careful as to what you buy though, so you don't loose stopping power or get a bad case of the brake squeaks. Mike J.

09-09-2004, 10:34 AM	#3 (permalink)
DuckHunter Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Atlanta, Georgia USA Posts: 4 Gallery: 0	I have 60k on my truck. 90% of the time I'm driving on the hwy going to work. I do tow a 21' boat and I do going off roading 2-3 times a year. I do like the drilled and slotted rotors, but I do not at all costs want to get the squeks. PLease advise on rotors and pads

09-09-2004, 02:05 PM	#4 (permalink)
dent beer drinking member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 322 Gallery: 0	got mine from http://www.discountbritishparts.com/ though i got it for D1. Heard from people that the Mintex is not as good but i've not had any problems with them. Might want to check out lockheed or ferodo.. forget which one makes it for lr for the D2's... as for slotted/ drilled.. can't help you out there sorry sam

09-09-2004, 05:29 PM	#6 (permalink)
PTSchram Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 50 Gallery: 0	$580 is a more than fair price for that job, if you were not inclined to do it yourself. I have done four or five in the last few weeks. Expect a few issues. 1: The retaining screw may be a real bear to remove. It is not a philips head, but Pozi-Drive, #4. The screw is 8 * 1.25 if you need to replace it. 2: The rotors may be seized to the hub. We use a die grinder with a wire brush to try to clean up the hub. Often times, a two-jaw puller is needed. 3: the fronts will require a 19 m/m or 3/4 12-point socket and breaker bar, they're tight. Lemme know if you need anymore insight. Peace, PT

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