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Have the no start issue been resolved?

5K views 13 replies 3 participants last post by  sierrafery 
#1 ·
I have always read the forums and now I have a problem of my own, so I joined in. Hopefully I can get my problem solved. I have a 2000 LR D2 4.0 and I have had the heads resurfaced, new magnacor 8mm wires, Bosch dub platinum plugs, head gasket, oil pump, water pump, timing chain, and all the gaskets changed about nearly 2 years ago. The vehicle always ran good and i was very fortunate to have had a good running vehicle for 6 years. Now I have gremlins.
I drove the Disco to my grandma's house one day and stayed for several hours. When I got ready to leave, the truck wouldn't start only turned over. There are no codes. I figured it's just the CPS like I read on the forum. So I left it and ordered the part. The part came in and I replaced it; still nothing, it's doing the same. Next I thought, it's got to be the fuel pump, which what crossed my mind in the beginning. So I ordered a decent 355 fuel pump on eBay, and just changed the pump in my FP assembly. Easy job took about 45 min, put it in, and turned the key. STILL NOTHING......no sound from pump in key secondary. I switched the fuel pump relay with the washer relay (they both had the same part #)....NOTHING. NOW HERE IS THE CRAZY PART. I removed the breather and decided to use a little bit of starting fluid in the throttle body to see if it would crank and run as long as I supplied some kind of catalyst to start. IT DID....AND IT KEPT RUNNING. I was ecstatic, I have spark. I replaced the breather while it was running and 3 seconds after reconnecting the MAF sensor, it shut off. I got to thinking that maybe this is where my problem was the whole time. So I disconnected the MAF and tried to crank it and it started without starting fluid but it was a hard start. It ran and I even got in and drove it around the yard, but the acceleration sucks and the idle is a bit rough. Even though now I think it's probably the MAF, the truck still doesn't supply fuel on its own in key 2nd. It seems once it gets started, the fuel pump starts running or the motor is just sucking the fuel out of the tank like a vacuum. I think it's the latter since accel sucks and plus after sitting for 10+ mins, I have to spray starting fluid again like the fuel drains back. I need to order the MAF but I think I am done just throwing parts at it until I really know what's wrong. I will get a voltage meter and a test light to check relays and wires. I will remove the IACV and other throttle body related parts and clean them with TB cleaner. A lot of people are having similar problems and I think they are all related. The problem seems simple, just finding out exactly where it's at is the hard part (even though I am good at troubleshooting).
MAF sensor, ECU bad, inertia switch bad, bad ground some where, or maybe a loose connection at the ECU; could these be the problem? What's your take on this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a long way before I give up but before I reach that limit, I might just add a jumper switch for the fuel pump and keep driving. Sorry for writing a book, I wanted to cover everything I've DID so far, plus the results. Thanks for your help in advance.
 
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#3 ·
Hi, this is Harris again with an update. Since I haven't had any responses, I have been googling the net and probing the Rover and I would like to post my findings and experiences.
I ended up ordering an MAF sensor, cleaned the IACV, and throttle body with TB cleaner. I connected everything back and installed the new MAF sensor. Now, the truck runs like new. I now have the acceleration, I have no service engine codes, no rough idle, no misfires. I also drove the Rover on the highway going normal speeds (55-65 mph) with no misfires and no codes.
I'm happy that I'm making progress, but I still have only one issue. It seems that the fuel pump still isn't coming on by itself for 2-3 secs in ignition secondary. I have to use starting fluid to start it. I bought a test light and a voltmeter and checked the relay. The relay clicks when energized and I checked the resistance on the other pins on the relay, the relay is good. The front female slot for the relay has power. I then checked the power at the pump and nothing. So somewhere between the fuse box and the pump is the problem.

Is there another fuel pump relay?

Do any body have any suggestions on where to start looking?
 
#4 ·
A couple of thoughts - have you actually checked the fuel pressure at the rail?
there is a regulator and a non return valve (preventing return to the tank from the rail) to hold pressure in the rail once the engine is turned off - the valve holds pressure in the rail for 24 hours plus (or should) to enable faster starting.
Its difficult to try electrical diagnosis over the net so i cant say if you are looking at the right things or not - but remember there are only a few seconds of priming pulse from the pump when the key is turned on - then the pump switches off after the rail is primed - and stays off until the engine cranks at more than 400 rpm - then it turns on again once the engine is spinning at anything above those cut-off rpm's. If the regulator is losing pressure or the non return valve is not working properly you may not be able to build enough pressure to keep the rail pressurized enough to start the vehicle but have enough pressure once its running.
cheers
Barri
 
#5 ·
Hi, to rule out a wiring issue between the relay and the pump remove the relay and make bridge with a wire instead terminals 30-87 of it(they are noted on the relay), then you must hear the pump... if not leave the bridge there and go to connector C0376/0390(attached) unplug it and check for voltage in the male side pin2(white/purple wire)... if you get voltage there and not at the pump the problem is in that part of loom to the pump cos from there it's hardwired through the chassis loom untill the pump, if no voltage at C0376 with bridged relay the problem is at the fusebox plug(C0578 - 4) or within the fusebox. (you can also find connector views in RAVE - Electrical library)
 

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#6 ·
Hi gurunutkins, checking the fuel pressure was the next thing on my list. I still have to buy a gauge but once I check the pressure, I can determine if the regulator and/or the non return valve is malfunctioning. Thanks, I didn't think about checking those.

Hi sierrafery, I jumped the relay once before and the pump did come on but when I checked this past Friday, I didn't hear it. Maybe I was doing something wrong.

I will try both suggestions, I think I am getting close to finding the problem. I greatly appreciate the help and I will get back with you with an update soon.
 
#7 ·
Ok, I bridged the fuel pump relay pin 30 & 87 and the pump came on and continued to run. I also checked the connector 0376/0390, everything good. With relay 30 & 87 bridged, the truck starts up like a champ. But once I replace the relay, the pump doesn't come on in secondary, only after the truck is running, the pump runs. Even though I have already checked the relay, I might buy a new one and try it.
Also, I don't have any problem with fuel pressure, I can drive the truck like normal, I just have a problem starting it like normal.
 
#8 ·
If new relay won't fix it the problem is with the command to the relay's coil. There is a round grey plug near the fusebox(C0449) insert a needle or wire to pin 10(blue/purple wire) as to have access to it with connected plug then put ignition on II and connect a ground from body there... that's the earth path to the relay's coil which should come from the ECU on ignition...if you hear the pump then the problem is between that plug and ECU or within the ECU, if you dont hear the pump then it's between that plug and the relay, can be within the fusebox too or the plug in the fusebox, this is a bad contact on that path or ECU internal issue
 

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#9 ·
Hey sorry for the long wait. New relay didn't work. Ok, I did exactly what you said to do and the pump did come on with the blue/purple wire jump grounded. You said that that mean that there was a problem in between that plug and the ecu or the ecu itself. I also checked the connectors going into the ecu, wriggled them, they are ok.

I love my truck and I would like to do things the right way but buying an ecu if I have to and then have it programmed will be a drag for me. I really miss driving it and I hate to spend alot more money to get it going right, plus taking it to the closest LR stealership to have it reprogrammed is 250 miles away. I was thinking, could I splice a wire into the blue/purple wire on harness c0449 and ground that wire onto the bolt holding the harness. I tried that while switch the truck on and off and the pump worked the way it should in secondary and while truck running. Only thing is that the pump runs 3 more seconds after shutting truck off. Once I save enough money, I would then do the ecu fix.
 
#10 ·
Disconnect the plug and make a continuity test on that wire between that connector and the ECU plug maybe you are lucky to be interrupted and it's not an ECU fault
 
#11 ·
Ok, I just checked for continuity and I did get a signal between the blue/purple wire c0449 plug and the connector at the ecu, that's if I did it right. Since I disconnected some of the plugs at the ecu and reconnected, I checked to see if the pump worked but negative.
 
#12 ·
So as long as there is continuity and the pump runs with external earth on that wire the only conclusion is that the ECU doesnt switch the earth on the pump relay's coil for some reason...yes, you can let earth connected on that wire as temporary fix cos the main relay will cut the feed with ignition off
 
#13 ·
Good deal, I neatly spliced an earth/ground to that wire and it runs normal.
This is one of those annoying problems that happens with these vehicles but we still love our rovers. They are good vehicles except for the gremlins that pop up randomly and unexpectedly.
I really appreciate your patience with me and also the detailed information and guidance you gave me while I was bashing my head against the wall, lol.
Is there any way I can repay you for your time and help?
Let me know because I really appreciate your assistance.
 
#14 ·
No worries... i'm glad if i can help a fellow D2 owner :beer: ...just be cautious to not forget the ignition on II for too long cos that's one reason for that earth path through the ECU: to cut the pump after 30 seconds if it doesnt get a crank signal it's also linked to the security code iirc
 
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