!!Help!! 65,000 miles and dealer says slip liner

[Codylar]

Well hear is the deal, Misfire #6- so dealer says wire arching and should be replaced. So I did, along with all the other wires and both coils "since they were already in there anyway" labor looked to be most of the cost. Now lights off and I take her home. 1 day later light is back on so go to Autozone and check code 2 (Misfire #6) again. I take back to dealer. Sidenote #1 -I hear water noise @ glovebox area "carpet not wet and no coolant smell and noting on the ground" . I starting hearing that noise a day or two before the SEL came on. Dealer says its the Heater Matrix, seperate from Misfire issue.
Sidenote #2 - 59,000miles in AUG dealer replaced the head and valley pan gasket due to external leak (no water noise noted at that point)
Sidenote #3 - all services are done at each mile marker, nothing ingored when it goes wrong.
Sidenote #4 - 60,000 service just completed
Sidenote #5 - dealer says pressure in cyclinder good, and looks like slow or no coolant leak
Dealer now says slip liner in cyc#6 and short block needs to be replaced. The engine seem to be young and well take'n care of to have such a major issue. I don't trust dealers to much any advice I would be thankful for. Could it be the Head gasket giving me an issue or the valley pan gasket.

Thanks Cody

[polar]

year and make?

[ArmyRover]

can't help with the year but the make would = Land Rover.

judging by the pic and the forum I would say disco II so 99 or newer but that part is just a guess.

[Codylar]

Yeah , that might help, 2001 disco

[polar]

Seems strange a liner sliped in a 4.0L in such short milage without some previous cooling issue/abuse happining.

Anything is possiable,is the missfire caused from a coolant leak into the cylinder? or did they say?

get a leak down test done and a compression test to see if that #6 issue can be isolated.and go from there.

[KDamericano]

Slipped liners tend to be the result of an engine that's been severely overheated. Sounds strange for them to diagnose it as such. Are you getting any "knocking" noises? Any coolant in the oil?

[Codylar]

They didn't say if there is a coolant leak in #6, the problem I have is the dealer that is looking at it now is the dealer that replaced the head gasket 6,000 miles ago. Engine doesn't overheat and hasn't overheated. No knocking noise either. They want to crack it open to look inside. I think that has to be a little $. That might tell them what the problem is (once they open it I won't be able to tell if it was bad head gasket change)would I.

[polar]

It is pretty much your call at this point. Do you trust them?? if not the option is to have it towed to a different shop and have a Diagnosis done.

[Codylar]

It drives fine, doesn't overheat and it only gets the missfire on start up cold or warm. The coolant level holds. I thought a slip liner would drain the coolant pretty quick or am I wrong

[polar]

I am not sure, if it would be coolant or combustion gasses. Coolant would be easy as level might go down or you would see cantamination in the pressure bottel. if it was combustion gasses you might get a stronger than normal gas smell fom the oil.

if it drives fine then have another shop do a leak down and compression test.

[Codylar]

Yeah, I think that is what I am going to have to do. Just want if the truck is that funtional could be such a bad problem?

[polar]

by the time you here a liner slipped noise it would be to late.

Seems in either case a new short block is in order.

[ArmyRover]

first things first before we jump on the slipped liner band wagon.

Slipped liners are most commonly associated with overheating and pressurization of the cooling system. The reason this happens with a slipped liner (which doesn't always mean it fell out of the block it could just be an expansion leak or a crack in the liner wall), is the liner is allowing combustion gases to pass into the cooling system causing air gaps in the coolant that will lead to overheating and loss of cabin heat in most cases.

Since our problem doesn't seem that sever, how about we look at the basics before we throw the 4.0 in the trash bin.

Have we checked compression on that cylinder?
Have we checked spark on that cylinder?
Have we checked the plug wire is properly seated?

Since you are getting the slosh sound in the dash that means you do have air/combustion gas in the cooling system so I would have it pressure tested to see what the problem is there. If the heater matrix is weak it'll probably spring a leak at this point lol.

If your not mechanically inclined than take it to a local reputable land rover independent shop and have them diagnose the misfire. Let them come to their own conclusions. Don't feed them the dealer said shit.

Post up where your located I'm sure some other members on here could probably recommend a good shop.

my 2 cents rambling and tired I was planning on responding to this in the morning when my mind was fully functional, but I had a urgent request lol....

[Codylar]

Cheers mate!!! I will take to a indepented Land rover shop "OC rovers" thanks for the late night advice. I have to get this handled tommorrow, to many days with out my LR is no good. I have hills to climb!! I am located in Orange County ,CA

[Steph]

For the misfire, I'd try to first change the spark plugs, or at least the number 6, and then make sure that the plug wires are snapped in place and holding thight at the coil packs.

For the glove box noise, first try to bleed the air out of the system. ( when cold, otherwise you could suffer injuries)

1-You first have to fill the expansion tank
2- lift it as high as it will go and hold it there ( don't forget to un-snap the hose on the side of the plastic tray) I held it up using a few bungy cords and using the holes inside the nose of the hood, or a friend would be easier.
3-unscrew the bleeder bolt that is located in the middle of the hose that lays on top of the radiator and remove it until the air is bled out and that only coolant is coming out. While doing this, make sure that the expansion bottle does not run out of coolant, otherwise you're repeating the problem.
4- When only coolant is coming out, re-install the bleeder bolt.
5-Make sure the expansion bottle is full and re-install it in its place.


The noise should be gone. Go for a medium drive, come back, let it cool down for a few hours and lift the hood to make sure that coolant is back to its intended level. It is not likely, but you might have to repeat the proceedure if the noise is still there.

If air is back after a few bleeds, do not overlook the possibility that your radiator has gone bad. They are a regular failure on D2s, where the idea of having an aluminum core and plastic tanks was great, but having rubber gaskets that dries and cracks with heat and time was completely stupid. They should have used urethane gaskets!!! Anyways, you cannot change the gasket and need a new rad. To avoid the problem coming back, I had a copper rad custom made for half the price of a new oem one.


Good luck,

Steph.