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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 88
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99DII. I want to re-wire the disco so that the dash lights/headlights/parking lights are on a switched ignition source. I would like to do this from the turn signal/lights stalk. Anyone done this already that could give me some hints?
Thanks - Bill |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Germany
Posts: 102
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Wire them through a relay that gets activated from a white wire in the wiringloom. (that used to be a 'ignition on' live on DI's but I don't know if they have changed the colours)
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Nothing is sure but death and taxes. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,771
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Are you wanting to have the head lights on while driving??
If so, go find a mechanic who has a good lap top scanner that can access the ECU, he can then set it so whenever the engine is running the headlights will be on. Mike |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 88
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Mike. I've had the 3 amigos on almost 6 mo. now. About a week after I bought the truck, they came on. And no, the 3 functions do not work. The ECU was also never reprogrammed when the previous owner switched to coils. There are no indy shops even remotely close to me that have the "Test Book" or it's equivalent. The stealerships in my area all want 125.00 for a "read/reset" and 175.00 for re-programming. To add insult to injury, they will charge me another 100.00 to reset the lights after I fix the problem. So, when I add it all up, including a very conservative estimate to fix whatever tripped the lights in the first place, I said enough's enough! Screw the ABS (I think it brakes better without it), don't care about hill descent control (I've wheeled 30 years without it in other vehicles) and I just ordered a tru-trac for the rear (front to follow when bank account allows). So I'm going old-school. I'm going to pull the instrument cluster and disable the appropriate lights. The warning horn will go too, for the suspension when I pull the plugs on the compressor. Hence the need to rewire the lighting. Don't want to accidentally leave them on and drain the battery. Probably have to pull out the wiring diagrams, but thought I might save myself some headaches if someone had already done it.
Thanks - Bill P.S. Sourced a CDL shifter from a 88 Range Rover (25.00 WOOHOO!!) and will be installing that shortly as well. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 332
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If you're worried about a dead battery, I think it's easier, safer, and cheaper to get one of the following:
Battery Brain Bronze (Type I) Protect yourself against a dead battery Battery monitor at Crutchfield.com
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'03 Discovery HSE7 w/ACE and SLS... |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 88
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I won't argue the easier part. But won't the alarm system be disabled when the batt. is taken off-line? Have to reset the radio and climate control as well each time. Cost? Here's the math. Just to read/re-program/reset the lights after repair will be 400.00. That doesn't even include the cost to repair what is causing the lights in the first place. The fact that I don't have any of the functions leads me to believe that it is not going to be a cheap fix. My tru-trac is 450.00 and I can install it myself. Safer? That is debate-able. I won't argue the benefits of ABS, but I can tell you my lifted 99DII with all-terrain tires stops with equal, if not better, performance than my wife's totally stock 99DII (everything working). Don't get me wrong, I admire the idea behind the ABS system and the additional traction features it controls. But IMHO it was engineered either by accident or by design to be overly sensitive and costly to diagnose and repair. I have two of these things! I know they are not cheap to own and operate, but I simply can't afford a minimum of 400.00 a pop every time the three amigos rear their ugly heads. I also use my rig for off-roading and to have the peace of mind of tru-tracs front and rear with CDL far out-weighs giving up ABS.
- Bill |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 332
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sounds like you SLABS ECU is shot and if you wanted the ABS and associated functionality, it would need replacing...
Best advice, find a wiring diagram and used Dutchgit's suggestion... Or you could be careful when using the lights, used the "warning bell" method Mike mentioned, and don't leave your lights on...
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'03 Discovery HSE7 w/ACE and SLS... |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 88
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That would be my luck. Nothing simple or cheap. Since I'll have the gauge cluster out to disable the bell & three amigos, I'll do the lights then. Just thought if someone had already done it, I could save myself some time. Oh well, time to get out the RAVE cd and do some studying.
- Bill |
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