I finally replaced my plugs and wires

[wimp]

I finally got around to replacing the plugs and wires in my Disco II
As previously posted, I used Bosch plat +4 and Magnecor 8mm wires

I did not remove the intake to do the job
I unclipped the large wiring harness and moved it aside a bit. I have enormous hands and still managed to get back there. A little bit of swearing, but not too bad!
The wires fit perfectly into the little plastic keepers that are hard mounted on the valve covers, but don't fit well into the floating keepers. Those are not really necessary anyway, so I just omitted them as opposed to squeezing them in place and damagin the new wires.

I wish I could tell all of you guys that I did not get engine codes, but I messed up when installing the wires. I had one too many beers while replacing the last two wires and somehow managed to cross two wires.
When I started the car, it was skipping. The engine light came on (flashing). I immediately knew what the problem was and switched the two that were crossed. (I had another disco II to look at to confirm my mistake).
Anyway, once I had it correct, I started the car and everything was fine!
Unfortunetlay, the engine light remains on (not flashing) until I have it cleared.

End result on performace. Smooth acceleration, no noticable problems. Good power (for a Disco). It is not night and day, but definitely better. I am hoping to see better gas mileage too! I plan on having the computer cleared and see if I get any codes in the future. I will keep this board posted as I know this is a debatable subject.

Price of my plugs and wires $120
Time spent 2-3 hours
Beers consumed between me and my 2 buddies 30 pack
Facial expression if I get any codes .......

Priceless!

[hevkev]

Originally Posted by wimp

I plan on having the computer cleared and see if I get any codes in the future.

You can disconnect the battery (negative first) for a an hour or so and the MIL should go off, or just keep driving it and it should go away after running though the diagnostic.

Good to know big hands got back there. I've read some mechanics lay a board across the engine and climb on top. Is that how you did it?

[Elemental]

Originally Posted by hevkev

You can disconnect the battery (negative first) for a an hour or so and the MIL should go off, or just keep driving it and it should go away after running though the diagnostic.

Disconnecting the battery on a OBD 2 Comliant car will not clear codes or reset adaptave values.

You need a OBD code Reader to clear it OR the car needs to go though 50 warm up cycles since the last occourance of the failure.

[hevkev]

Wimp, in my experience, the disconnect method has worked on my post '95 year vehicles which includes the Disco. FWIW, my Disco's MIL has come on and gone off in the same day, maybe 2 or 3 warm up cycles.

[Elemental]

The light will go off, but the code WILL stay in the computer.

[rmuller]

Wow, I'm surprised that you haven't mentioned anything about the +4's yet Chris...

[Elemental]

I did in another thread.

I'm saving it for the the "SES/Misfire help please" post that surely will surface 2 weeks from now....

"Put I just changed my plugs... How can they be bad?"

Mark my words.

[wimp]

Thanks for the info on the engine light

fingers crossed on the future misfires! don't worry, I'm not too proud to post bad news. Worse comes to worse, I'll swap em out with all stock stuff.

I'll let you know

By the way
I did not put a piece of wood on the engine. rested my knees on the plastic radiator top cover. Very stable. I weigh 210 lbs.

[wimp]

Holding the light in the right place was also critical for me. Use a headlamp! works great

[Roverhound]

If Disco Mike is cool about them, they're good enough for you!

[wimp]

Check engine light went off after approx 6 starts

All seems to be fine......

for now