Misfire HELP! - Page 2 - Land Rovers Only

mrach21061 · 11-20-2007, 04:25 PM

I looked at the coolant and it was pretty far down the tank (didnt see the top of the water to see bubbles) so I put some water in there and it overflowed with coolant and bubbles. So I dont think I saw the bubbles your talking about.
I didnt see any more water in the fill pipe or cap this time, its all dried up. Do you think that had something to do with changing the oil? condensation? I do live like 5mins from work but it does reach the operating temp in that time.

BTW: I actually bought the gasket set for the shop and they installed it so I still hope I can get the warranty work out of them?

mrach21061 · 11-21-2007, 01:50 PM

Well I dropped it off at the shop today and I told the ass behind the counter that there was water in the oil and he said "That means it was probobly the block, thats what we were worried about"..... Man that pisses me off.. I know there going to try to get more money out of me, Im already $3,000 in with this shop with head and timing chain and cover and they dont give a crap.. Im going to sell this and get a POS beater when its fixed.. Whose commin with me?

KDamericano · 11-21-2007, 06:40 PM

Why the hell are you using a shop like that? They're probably going to try and screw you again. I'd go get your truck before they do. Take it to a different shop for an evaluation (an indy rover shop would be nice), and then go from there.
Also, a beater will probably give you more problems, and unless you're mechanically apt enough to fix those yourself (doesn't sound like you are) then you're going to be stuck getting the same run-around and BS from a crappy repair shop.

mrach21061 · 11-21-2007, 07:05 PM

This is a indy rover shop that mostly just works on land rovers.. I have had plenty of beaters 86 4runner, 87 accord, 85 oldsmobile etc. kept them all running for a long time up to 200K.. Ive rebuilt probobly 3 engines and replaced cv joints, installed jeep lifts etc.. The reason I didnt do this one is cause I couldnt get the frickin fan off. Yup, sounds stupid but If you cant get the fan off your car without a dealer specific tool than youll probobly come across more crap like that going further into the engine, this is what I assumed. I figured now that im making a little more money I can afford to take it to a shop for once. Turns out that is more of a hassle than if I did it my self in the first place and bought the fan tool. Hind sight?

KDamericano · 11-22-2007, 10:43 AM

Okay, then I take it back. If you've got that much experience with engine work, then there's no reason you can't keep your rover running well past 200K
I think the real problem here is the shop. Sounds to me like they botched the head gasket job, or re-used the old gaskets. Or possibly messed up the heads, and you're leaking somewhere in there.
Also, I can't think of any specialty tools that you'll absolutely need to work on this engine. The design is 40+ years old. If the people at the shop are the ones making it sound like a high-tech, complex engine then they're definitely blowing smoke. I got my fan off with ordinary tools. I think the standard GM fan clutch wrench fits too.

mrach21061 · 11-26-2007, 07:00 AM

I hate to keep this post going but, Whats the deal with the cylinder liners? How do they fail and what happens when they fail? I know they have a pin that holds them in but does the heads hold them from sliding on the top and pin hold them in from the bottom, or are they pressed in?

mrach21061 · 12-04-2007, 09:38 AM

UPDATE:
The shop took off the heads and sent them to a head shop. They lapped the valves previously and it wasnt done good enough. After this Im looking at $4000 after my timing chain snapped. Jesh..

scottagnew101 · 12-04-2007, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrach21061

Ok, I changed the oil and inside the oil fill tube and the inside of the oil fill cap had coolant in it! The cap has a few drops of water in there and i stuck my finger in the oil fill tube and there was some foamy oil in there!

Hold the phone, i have always looked at the oil as it was coming out of the pan, how do you do this test. Because as you stated, my oil never looks foamy coming out of the oil pan, im just trying to make sure i dont have anything funny going on.

Scott

mrach21061 · 12-05-2007, 05:16 AM

Yeah, Usually you can see the foamy (watery) oil comming right out of the drain plug from the pan, assuming theres alot of water in there. there was just a little bit of foamy oil in the fill tube, maybe just from condensation? there was water or coolant in the inside top of the fill cap, i guess this is also from condensation? Although my heads might be warped enough or the head gasket wasnt installed correctly? But it wasnt that bad cause my oil looked good.

mrach21061 · 12-12-2007, 03:41 PM

UPDATE:
After the rebuilt heads. Im driving away from the shop and what do you know, still runs like crap. No difference in the misfire or shaking at idle.
I didnt pay for the shop labor (because they were supposed to have rebuilt the heads previously) to do any work but I did pay for the head shop work and some new gaskets. Do you think i should have to pay for anything else to get it fixed if I take it back? Dont they have an obligation to fix the car and not just do a bunch of unnecessary work? I dont deal with shops much so im not familiar on how this works. I was thinking on trying to get a refund for the last bit of work or have them work on it again for free?!?! Not likely.

slouzon · 12-13-2007, 03:39 AM

Did you pay them with a credit card?
If so disbute payment though the credit card company and they will with hold back payment to them. I believe you will have to write the card company a letter?
You will be surprised how fast the shop will contact you to make it right.
I have never even had to get to this point before just telling them I was going to disbute was enough to get them off their A$$.

mrach21061 · 12-13-2007, 05:48 AM

No I payed with my visa check card, I have a lot of savings cause I rarely drive my truck. Im fixing it more than I drive it.
Good idea though.
Thanks

auwesman · 12-13-2007, 07:54 AM

You can still dispute charges though a visa check card. Give your bank a call

pie4foou · 12-13-2007, 07:38 PM

dude.... dont go back to that shop unless there giving you money back. (wow i had to climb all the way out of the classic section for that one... alright going back to my cave)

12-13-2007, 03:39 AM	#26 (permalink)
slouzon Back in a Series LR after 25 years :-) Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Troy, Michigan Posts: 114 Gallery: 0	Did you pay them with a credit card? Did you pay them with a credit card? If so disbute payment though the credit card company and they will with hold back payment to them. I believe you will have to write the card company a letter? You will be surprised how fast the shop will contact you to make it right. I have never even had to get to this point before just telling them I was going to disbute was enough to get them off their A$$. __________________ Back in a LR after 25 years!!! 71 Series IIa 88 01 D2 "BackInA88" on all the other LR forums (Sign up here first and couldn't think of a good handle at the time! )

12-13-2007, 07:54 AM	#28 (permalink)
auwesman '00 DII Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 204 Gallery: 0	You can still dispute charges though a visa check card. Give your bank a call __________________ '00 DII '07 Toyota Taco War Eagle!

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

11-20-2007, 04:25 PM	#16 (permalink)
mrach21061 Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 43 Gallery: 0	I looked at the coolant and it was pretty far down the tank (didnt see the top of the water to see bubbles) so I put some water in there and it overflowed with coolant and bubbles. So I dont think I saw the bubbles your talking about. I didnt see any more water in the fill pipe or cap this time, its all dried up. Do you think that had something to do with changing the oil? condensation? I do live like 5mins from work but it does reach the operating temp in that time. BTW: I actually bought the gasket set for the shop and they installed it so I still hope I can get the warranty work out of them?

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Land Rovers Only - Land Rover Forum Advertisement

11-21-2007, 01:50 PM	#17 (permalink)
mrach21061 Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 43 Gallery: 0	Well I dropped it off at the shop today and I told the ass behind the counter that there was water in the oil and he said "That means it was probobly the block, thats what we were worried about"..... Man that pisses me off.. I know there going to try to get more money out of me, Im already $3,000 in with this shop with head and timing chain and cover and they dont give a crap.. Im going to sell this and get a POS beater when its fixed.. Whose commin with me?

11-21-2007, 06:40 PM	#18 (permalink)
KDamericano Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denver Posts: 179 Gallery: 0	Why the hell are you using a shop like that? They're probably going to try and screw you again. I'd go get your truck before they do. Take it to a different shop for an evaluation (an indy rover shop would be nice), and then go from there. Also, a beater will probably give you more problems, and unless you're mechanically apt enough to fix those yourself (doesn't sound like you are) then you're going to be stuck getting the same run-around and BS from a crappy repair shop.

11-21-2007, 07:05 PM	#19 (permalink)
mrach21061 Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 43 Gallery: 0	This is a indy rover shop that mostly just works on land rovers.. I have had plenty of beaters 86 4runner, 87 accord, 85 oldsmobile etc. kept them all running for a long time up to 200K.. Ive rebuilt probobly 3 engines and replaced cv joints, installed jeep lifts etc.. The reason I didnt do this one is cause I couldnt get the frickin fan off. Yup, sounds stupid but If you cant get the fan off your car without a dealer specific tool than youll probobly come across more crap like that going further into the engine, this is what I assumed. I figured now that im making a little more money I can afford to take it to a shop for once. Turns out that is more of a hassle than if I did it my self in the first place and bought the fan tool. Hind sight?

11-22-2007, 10:43 AM	#20 (permalink)
KDamericano Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denver Posts: 179 Gallery: 0	Okay, then I take it back. If you've got that much experience with engine work, then there's no reason you can't keep your rover running well past 200K I think the real problem here is the shop. Sounds to me like they botched the head gasket job, or re-used the old gaskets. Or possibly messed up the heads, and you're leaking somewhere in there. Also, I can't think of any specialty tools that you'll absolutely need to work on this engine. The design is 40+ years old. If the people at the shop are the ones making it sound like a high-tech, complex engine then they're definitely blowing smoke. I got my fan off with ordinary tools. I think the standard GM fan clutch wrench fits too.

11-26-2007, 07:00 AM	#21 (permalink)
mrach21061 Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 43 Gallery: 0	I hate to keep this post going but, Whats the deal with the cylinder liners? How do they fail and what happens when they fail? I know they have a pin that holds them in but does the heads hold them from sliding on the top and pin hold them in from the bottom, or are they pressed in?

12-04-2007, 09:38 AM	#22 (permalink)
mrach21061 Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 43 Gallery: 0	UPDATE: The shop took off the heads and sent them to a head shop. They lapped the valves previously and it wasnt done good enough. After this Im looking at $4000 after my timing chain snapped. Jesh..

12-05-2007, 05:16 AM	#24 (permalink)
mrach21061 Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 43 Gallery: 0	Yeah, Usually you can see the foamy (watery) oil comming right out of the drain plug from the pan, assuming theres alot of water in there. there was just a little bit of foamy oil in the fill tube, maybe just from condensation? there was water or coolant in the inside top of the fill cap, i guess this is also from condensation? Although my heads might be warped enough or the head gasket wasnt installed correctly? But it wasnt that bad cause my oil looked good.

12-12-2007, 03:41 PM	#25 (permalink)
mrach21061 Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 43 Gallery: 0	UPDATE: After the rebuilt heads. Im driving away from the shop and what do you know, still runs like crap. No difference in the misfire or shaking at idle. I didnt pay for the shop labor (because they were supposed to have rebuilt the heads previously) to do any work but I did pay for the head shop work and some new gaskets. Do you think i should have to pay for anything else to get it fixed if I take it back? Dont they have an obligation to fix the car and not just do a bunch of unnecessary work? I dont deal with shops much so im not familiar on how this works. I was thinking on trying to get a refund for the last bit of work or have them work on it again for free?!?! Not likely.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

12-13-2007, 05:48 AM	#27 (permalink)
mrach21061 Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 43 Gallery: 0	No I payed with my visa check card, I have a lot of savings cause I rarely drive my truck. Im fixing it more than I drive it. Good idea though. Thanks

12-13-2007, 07:38 PM	#29 (permalink)
pie4foou fuddmucker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: CT/RI area Posts: 102 Gallery: 2	dude.... dont go back to that shop unless there giving you money back. (wow i had to climb all the way out of the classic section for that one... alright going back to my cave)