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Old 05-30-2006, 05:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Need for OEM brakes??? (update)

Okay.. been battling with Land Rover for the past several months and 6000 miles.. It appears that they are stumped as to why I keep getting the trio of lamps illuminated in my truck. Just had another ABS sensor replaced as it stated there were voltage spikes. Next on the plate is to tear down my hub to see if it is broken (?) BUT, if it is rusted/dirty... they will not cover the work. Final stage is to replace the SLABS unit, which the warranty people (Land Rover) really doesn't want to do. Today, they showed me a TSB that stated that any aftermarket pad can cause these issues.. I have EBC's installed.. so.. they want me to replace those (only 6K miles old) with OEM's.. They wanted $360 for the rear pads.. I told them to smoke themselves as I can pick them up for $95 a pair. Have you ever heard of such a thing?? How can brake pads, not cheap ass taiwan specials either, cause brake sensor issues??
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How many miles on your truck, have you ever replaced or resurfaced the rotors? Do you brake squeak much, especially when warm, how about brake dust on the front wheels?
Get back to me.
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey Mike!

61K on the truck right now, and it's got the original rotors on it. They do squeek from time to time, but not much. Dust is almost non-existant, almost anyway. The EBC Greenstuff Pads emit very little dust which was a driving factor for me purchasing them.

Thanks!

Ryan
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Those pads are too harsh for the stock rotors- and there has been a link to squeaking brakes (yes, even oem/genuine) causing the ABS sensors to freak.
Sounds as if they just don't have an answer- because it's actually sometimes really hard to diagnose intermittant problems. They want to return the truck to a 'known state' meaning "as original" to eliminate any variables. Sucks too.
Maybe throw a nondirectional finish on the rotors with a wire wheel on a drill, wash in soapy water, then re-heat cycle the pads and see if it goes away.
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Old 05-30-2006, 09:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thought i read while back, use o.e.m pads,

will o.e.m pads work well with any aftermarket rotor?
the rears have been replaced at the dealership at 47,000.
the fronts have not been touched. have 53,000 miles now. when is
the right time for the front. this 2001 DII se is wife's, 1mile commute
2 work, never goes through any stop&go . how far can the fronts
before replacement.?

when it is time for my front's, i will use o.e.m rover pads
but what rotors are recomended?


2001 DII se
sittn on 8teens
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Old 05-31-2006, 07:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddy Oval
Those pads are too harsh for the stock rotors- and there has been a link to squeaking brakes (yes, even oem/genuine) causing the ABS sensors to freak.
Sounds as if they just don't have an answer- because it's actually sometimes really hard to diagnose intermittant problems. They want to return the truck to a 'known state' meaning "as original" to eliminate any variables. Sucks too.
Maybe throw a nondirectional finish on the rotors with a wire wheel on a drill, wash in soapy water, then re-heat cycle the pads and see if it goes away.
I agree with Steve and would also add that at 60K. I would be your rotors are under specs and running hot, a bad combination for our trucks.
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Old 05-31-2006, 08:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFERJOHN
thought i read while back, use o.e.m pads,

will o.e.m pads work well with any aftermarket rotor?
the rears have been replaced at the dealership at 47,000.
the fronts have not been touched. have 53,000 miles now. when is
the right time for the front. this 2001 DII se is wife's, 1mile commute
2 work, never goes through any stop&go . how far can the fronts
before replacement.?

when it is time for my front's, i will use o.e.m rover pads
but what rotors are recomended?


2001 DII se
sittn on 8teens
Holy crap- you must not stop much. OEM pads work ok on pretty much any rotor, but not all pads work well with OEM rotors. There's really only two options- go original or go with high end like DBA's. There's a lot of cheap no-name rotors out there but I wouldn't even consider them. I just replaced the rears on mine and I used lockheed pads and rotors- all oem and they work well.
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Old 05-31-2006, 09:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Steve,

I assume you carry the items you installed on your vehicle (brakes). Care to give me a ball park of what you are charging?

Thanks.

Ryan
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Old 05-31-2006, 10:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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DII front rotors are $74 for the oem ones. Rears are $48. Pads are $39.95 and rears are $34.95. All OEM. There's a front/rear kit with everything for $299.

The DBA stuff is a lot more, but seem to last longer. I considered going with DBA's but I only needed the rear ones done for now- so I decided to go stock OEM this time around. Next time the fronts wear down, I'll convert at that point.
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Old 05-31-2006, 05:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ryan...here's a trick we used to do with the Honda brake pads [as they use to make noise] that i would try before replacing everything. Take the pads and sand the brake surface with a peice of 40 grit sand paper [put the paper on the ground or your work bench and just give the pads a couple passes, the idea is to just take the polish off the pad surface]. Once that is done put a chamfer on the leading and trailing edge of the pad with a file/ grinder/sand paper...what ever you have.....nothing huge but make it visible. This won't hurt the pads any and makes them run better.

If you want to take it one step further....take that 40 grit paper and scuff up the rotors as well [this will take some of the polished testure off as well to help with noise]

If this doesn't work than you will have no choice but to replace the parts so the dealer has a "original" truck to work with. Give it a shot....later, Dean

ps; don't feel bad...if this was a VW you would be paying for the brake sensors etc as well because the none factory parts can invalidate your warranty on those components affected by them [now this also depends on your dealer but.....]
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Old 05-31-2006, 06:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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sounds to me an idiot at the dealershiop doesnt know his stuff.



Heres the deal. Despite what you guys seem to think you know

The hub seals leak and when they do the ruin the sensor,

Trust me I have seen new guys try to state that it needs a sensor despite the fact the hub is leaking away, Oh thats just a little leak they say.

Needless to say when you take off the rotor and show them they change their tune.

basically for a fun 600 bucks you need a hub assembly and sensor.

and if the bastard is still giving you problems I look at the sensor harness to the module.

and they do have parts for that as well.
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Old 05-31-2006, 09:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well, that is good to know. They did replace the sensor with the new harness. I am getting a different warning now then I did prior. Before the ABS/Trac/HSC lamps were illuminated and stayed that way. Now, when I start the truck, the ABS stays illuminated for about 30 seconds and turns off. It takes about 100-1000 feet before I get the three dings, and all three lamps are illuminated again. If I shut the truck off, it resets them and starts the process over. What gives??
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Old 05-31-2006, 11:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovin4life
Heres the deal. Despite what you guys seem to think you know

The hub seals leak and when they do the ruin the sensor,

.
A wonderfully arrogant statement... that's a FAR less common problem than the FIRST easy and cheaper things one can try before swapping hubs. Sure, lots of DII hub failures, but they aren't the cause of every "3 amigo" episode. He admitted his brakes squeal- so why not fix that?

Quote:
because the none factory parts can invalidate your warranty on those components affected by them
No, they can't... that's illegal. The burden of proof is on the dealer to prove that a non-Genuine part caused the problem. The fact that they are there can't invalidate the warranty.
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddy Oval

No, they can't... that's illegal. The burden of proof is on the dealer to prove that a non-Genuine part caused the problem. The fact that they are there can't invalidate the warranty.
Very true...but we always tell customers that if the component is replaced in the shop and the problem goes away......you will pay!!! And i think [not to start an argument] that the waranty fine print states that the manufacturer has the right to diss-allow any waranty claim...hence the reason they ask for your vehicle service history.

Later, Dean
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Old 06-01-2006, 03:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I am installing KVR rotors and pads on my Disco next week. Cross drilled plated rotors and carbon kevlar pads. They are good for dust and have work very well for us in race conditions.

http://www.kvrperformance.com
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