So I noticed a couple of days ago that my windshield wipers were stopping in the middle of the windshield and I would have to turn off/on the switch to get them going again. So they start up again only to work when it decides to and stop in the middle.
As a side note, the next day I tried to start the truck and the "new" battery was completely dead. I jumped it and it is running. Another thing that may be of importance is that I am hearing a relay go on and off underneath the driver side door. If I remember correctly that would be where the old suspension pump is that I left in when I switched over to coil springs.
Now the question I have is...do you think this points to my alternator(haven't had a chance to test yet) or possibly my battery is being drained by the relay? I did not notice anything else lacking power and am kinda leaning toward the windshield wipers being a completely separate issue?
Opinions please.
Thanks- Heather
Last edited by prettynpink1029; 02-25-2010 at 09:18 PM.
The middle of the windscreen has the most resistance due to shape. I would make sure that the shafts the arms attach to are not rounded out and that the set screw is still tight on each arm.
__________________
1969 LR 109
1970 LR 109 Wagon
1974 MGB
2004 Disco II
So I noticed a couple of days ago that my windshield wipers were stopping in the middle of the windshield and I would have to turn off/on the switch to get them going again. So they start up again only to work when it decides to and stop in the middle.
As a side note, the next day I tried to start the truck and the "new" battery was completely dead. I jumped it and it is running. Another thing that may be of importance is that I am hearing a relay go on and off underneath the driver side door. If I remember correctly that would be the suspension pump that was taken out when I switched over to coil springs.
Now the question I have is...do you think this points to my alternator(haven't had a chance to test yet) or possibly my battery is being drained by the relay? I did not notice anything else lacking power and am kinda leaning toward the windshield wipers being a completely separate issue?
Opinions please.
Thanks- Heather
How many miles do you have. Yes, the WSW switch is in the assembly itself. My wipers would stop in mid-sequence and I needed to replace the whole assembly. I'd test your alt. first. Try advanced auto or NAPA they have a alternator tester.
When your wipers stop any where other then where they should, it is because the park switch, inside the wiper motor, is failing, the only fix is a new motor.
God get you battery charged before it dies on you.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
I have never had a wiper problem with my DII, so I was going with an easy check/fix first as I have had this problem on the old Rovers and MG.
That's cause you drive an 04, give it some time man! The one swipe stop (as I called it) was the switch for me. Replaced the whole darn thing. Should have known LR couldn't have made it easy...
How many miles do you have. Yes, the WSW switch is in the assembly itself. My wipers would stop in mid-sequence and I needed to replace the whole assembly. I'd test your alt. first. Try advanced auto or NAPA they have a alternator tester.
It's a 2000 DII with 140,000 miles. I checked out the alternator and it's fine. I think the guys are right about the relay draining the battery.
Because I'm cheap, a year ago I took my wiper motor apart because it was stalling like yours, found the contacts were bad. So I made new ones. It cost next to nothing and has worked for 12000 miles.
__________________
2000 d2 33"s cdl, 3 inch rte +1" in rear , custom bumpers, fox shocks
Heather,
When you had the SLS removed, did you have the 30 amp fuse pulled from the fuse block in the engine compartment, do any of your SLS warning lights still light up on the dash?
You mentioned your alternator was OK, how was it checked? The best/cheapest way to have it checked is at any local auto parts store, they will check the alternator/battery and you need to have between 13.6 and 14.4 volts showing, let us know what your shows.
As for the wipers, don't waste your money having the switch replaced, it is a well known issue that Rovers park switch fails, causing exactly what you are describing.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
As for the wipers, don't waste your money having the switch replaced, it is a well known issue that Rovers park switch fails, causing exactly what you are describing.
Still need a little more help. In a nutshell, I switched over to coil springs for the suspension a couple of years ago and left the sls pump connected. About a month ago the pump started to come back to life. I can hear it make noises intermittently so now I am coming out to a dead battery if I don't run it everyday, with the exception of this morning- the only thing I did different was leave the keys in ignition(in the off position of course)?? With that being said, here's my ideas...
I've tried to disconnect the blue and white plugs in the sls pump - only to have to reconnect them back because of the annoying chime that would continue. I disconnected the electrical connector to the compressor. I don't have any lights illuminated for the system. I am still hearing the clicking noise intermittently. I don't think I can pull the fuse, I think the fuse is for both the compressor and the anti-lock brakes. Am I missing something obvious?? I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from that box. I guess I could be wrong, but with all the info I've given what else can I do to make that pump relay stop? Any more ideas?
To do it right the SLABS module needs to be reprogrammed so it's not trying to run the air pump. This will also prevent any faults associated with self leveling from popping up.
__________________
Disco Mike is a douche nozzle.
Quote:
It's not like I am going to do this without asking my mom first.
Pull the 30 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse block. That will stop the voltage loss but you may then have a warning light on the dash that only reprograming your ECU will turn off.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.