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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Light On at Idle

Hello. 03 Disco 130K. At idle my oil light is on or flashes a little. Got a$35 tester off Amazon. Cold idle 10psi, Cold 2K RPM 30psi, Hot at 2K RPM 30psi. Not sure if this even counts but a hot idle is around 5psi. I also think some oil is backing into the gauge and skewing the results for the worse. What do you think about these readings? I am going to replace the sensor.
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 02:46 PM
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Not doubting your measurements, but the same pressure cold and hot is a red flag.

What oil & filter?
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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I am due for an oil change. Use Mobile 1 M1-301 with 10W40 Synthetic. My Gauge is not exact probably a few PSI off. What are good readings that would be acceptable? Not talking about what is in the shop manual.
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 06:10 PM
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I would expect at least 10-15 @ hot idle
You are aware of the oil pump problems that plagued 2003s I assume?
If the light is flickering with 5 psi it sounds like it is working properly.
How overdue is the oil change.?

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 06:15 PM
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It is suppose to be around 20psi at idle. The rev pressure of 30psi is not too bad, but issues will usually show up at idle, not at revs.

The most likely cause is simply that your motor is very worn. The number of miles on it does not really matter, it is how it was treated and serviced during those miles.

If you want a temporary fix, try a thicker oil. I would start with a 15W oil first.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 09:36 PM
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Not sure if this even counts but a hot idle is around 5psi. I also think some oil is backing into the gauge and skewing the results for the worse. What do you think about these readings? I am going to replace the sensor.
It counts, sensor knows no difference between H & C.

Unless you're seeing oil inside the gauge display it should make no difference. What's min/max scale readings on gauge? Generally the higher the max accuracy on the lower end will be less. Slight chance gauge off but sounds like it may be time to look at oil pump. Some folks find changing to 20w50 boosts their OP until issue resolved.

FYI, D2 manual:
Quote:
Pressure at idle - minimum 0.7 bar (10 lbf.in2)

Pressure at 2000 rev/min (hot) 3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)

Low oil pressure switch opening pressure 0.24-0.41 bar (3.5-6.0 lbf.in2)
......

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redtruck12 View Post
I would expect at least 10-15 @ hot idle
You are aware of the oil pump problems that plagued 2003s I assume?
If the light is flickering with 5 psi it sounds like it is working properly.
How overdue is the oil change.?
I am at 3,500 miles since last change. I know about the pump and dow placement on the engine shortens life. No simple way to inspect. Its either the pump has a broken gear or it does not. Is there even any other parts to replace in the pump?
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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It counts, sensor knows no difference between H & C.

Unless you're seeing oil inside the gauge display it should make no difference. What's min/max scale readings on gauge? Generally the higher the max accuracy on the lower end will be less. Slight chance gauge off but sounds like it may be time to look at oil pump. Some folks find changing to 20w50 boosts their OP until issue resolved.

FYI, D2 manual:

......
The gauge is 0 to 140. Increments of 10. It starts cold idle at 15 then then when the air injection stops it goes to 10. Then when hot it goes to 5 at idle. Will mention this. This makes no sense but the original oil sensor was hand tight. I literally reached up and unscrewed it when I could not find the right socket. For the record the correct socket is 15/16th for the original sensor.
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 12:29 PM
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I'm confused. Did you check your pressure with your little Autozone gizmo or with a mechanical gauge?

You should have a substantial difference in oil pressure between cold and hot, unless you put a very light oil in it.


The '03 oil pump problems from what I understand typically happened fairly early on. It's hard to imagine that this truck, at 130K, is suffering from the '03 manufacturing defect. But the pump can be worn or have a cracked ring and cause this problem.

Aside from the pump, you have to think in terms of where the oil is going- it's either leaking out of worn bearings or the rocker shafts. It's unlikely that you're losing pressure from the cam/lifters. When I redid my '04, it had significant rocker shaft wear for having only 100K and religiously performed maintenance. That's the easiest place to start looking. If it was losing large amounts of oil in the bottom end, I would think you would hear some rod rattle when free revving it.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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So I replaced the temp sensor and changed the oil. Light is on at idle. I am going park it and remove the pump for inspection. What am I looking for as far as wear goes? I am thinking about also pulling the oil pan. See you in a few weeks or at least until this heat stops on the east coast.
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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I removed the pump. No broken gear. Anyway to tell if the pump is worn? Timing chain is loose. Close to an inch of deflection.
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 02:11 PM
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If you have an inch of deflection your chain is definitely stretched and should be replaced. As for the pump, any signs of scoring, cracking, discolouration etc. Are signs it is bad.
I would agree with others previous recommendations of dropping a couple bearing caps (main caps not rod as they are torque to yield bolts) and inspection for bearing wear.

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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I have nothing to loose at this point. I will pull the caps. Just so I get this correct. I pull the caps that hold the crank in?

Also I inspected the oil pump. There is scoring and some discoloration on the gears, housing and plate that holds the gear in. Really hesitant on dropping $500 on a new pump. Any one have any luck on a used pump for much less?
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 07:06 PM
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If your pump is scored it is bad, this is true of all oil pumps of this type. There is also a spec on the clearance between the housing and the gears, so if you buy a used pump be sure to check it to find out it is out of spec as well. $500 seems like alot of money, however how much is your next trip worth? Taking the family/friends on a vacation or other important event? When your truck strands you on the side of the road, or worse out in the middle of nowhere, suddenly $500 isn't that much money. Except now that is just the tow bill to get you home, not to mention the entire engine is now only good for anchoring your boat.
You can pull the mains and let the front of the crank hang by the timing chain, just think you will have that much more room to work with since yours is loose.
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 02:58 AM
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Really hesitant on dropping $500 on a new pump. Any one have any luck on a used pump for much less?
Checkout lrdircect.com in the UK, they may have a new cvr/pump assy for less. Easy to set up account and have ordered from them before.
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