Quick Disconnects ?? - Land Rovers Only

RoverChic · 03-28-2006, 03:43 PM

For those of you who have the Dave Lucas QD, what tool did you use to remove the lower bolt? That T-40 Torx Bit is not doing the trick......My truck is very RUSTY from living in NY. Any advice??? THANKS!

Muddy Oval · 03-28-2006, 03:48 PM

The T40 doesn't fit or you just can't get em to turn?

RoverChic · 03-28-2006, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muddy Oval

The T40 doesn't fit or you just can't get em to turn?

Hi Steve! No it fits but......I guess I am not strong enough to hold the bit while turning the box wrench?? LOL! Is there another tool??

Rovin4life · 03-28-2006, 06:53 PM

Bang the bit in with a hammer and then take it out.

I got an impact driver set that does the trick. if you get one for that go for it.

It uses the hammer as a means to break the rust and get it out.

RoverChic · 03-28-2006, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beezel

Bang the bit in with a hammer and then take it out.

I got an impact driver set that does the trick. if you get one for that go for it.

It uses the hammer as a means to break the rust and get it out.

Awesome! Will do thanks! It is rusted on there (LOVE NY Weather) which is why it is a pain. So then I still use the box wrench? I was using a 18mm socket but all it does it turn, so without the bit the 18mm is useless. Thanks!

Beezel, we stopped by your dealership by the airport in Albany back in FEB 2006, not sure if you were there or not though?

Rovin4life · 03-28-2006, 08:26 PM

I wont publicly identify myself. Especially at work.

but I am no different then any other LR tech in any dealership.

Muddy Oval · 03-29-2006, 06:54 AM

Soak it in PB Blaster several times a day for a couple days.

NorCalDisco2 · 03-29-2006, 11:04 AM

Just be careful and patient with these. I wasn't and ended up with this. And that's no Walmart special - $18 SnapOn

RoverChic · 03-29-2006, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorCalDisco2

Just be careful and patient with these. I wasn't and ended up with this. And that's no Walmart special - $18 SnapOn

OK! Thanks, I had some issues but I was able to get the driver side...THANK GOODNESS! But the Passenger Side is a Pain in the ARSE!!! I just ordered Dave's Sliders so I am really excited about them arriving too! Any advice Mr. NorthCal ?

drum655 · 03-29-2006, 11:48 AM

personally...i would just put a small screwdriver or something through the hole in the pin where the pin goes that holds the disconnect on. this will keep it from spinning and then you can use a box wrench or socket to get the nut off....i hope this help!

NorCalDisco2 · 03-29-2006, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoverChic

I just ordered Dave's Sliders so I am really excited about them arriving too! Any advice Mr. NorthCal ?

Actually, Ms. RoverChic, I do have some advice on those sliders! Two things:

1) I’d spend some time prepping your sills once you take the plastic crap off. Dave says cleaning/waxing is sufficient, but I have a feeling the sills will rust after you keep the sliders on for a while. This would be especially true in your wet weather conditions. I didn’t prep mine in any special way, but in the next month or so I’ll be taking the sliders off and treating the areas around the holes with something rustproof.

2) DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the nyloc nuts! Here’s the deal, the sliders are designed in such a way that they’ll “clamp” around the seal, so naturally you have to “squeeze” them together when you put the bolts on. Problem is, the sills are so damn fragile that if you are not paying attention, it’s very easy to “squeeze” them too much and actually deform the sill

! End result will yield a bulging sill inside your truck, right where your plastic retainer bolts on to secure your carpet to the floor. The nuts screw on so easy that even with a small hand wrench it’s hard to notice when you are starting to over tighten. Point is, go slow and keep checking to see if you got the slider “clamping” around the sill with 90 angles. Otherwise you’ll be banging the sill back in shape with a hammer

Hope this helps and good move on Slickrocks!!!

p.s. oh crap, I just read the "new" instructions on Dave's site... says about the same thing that I've mentioned above!!! AAAHHH!!! He didn't have those instructions when I got mine!!!

RoverChic · 03-29-2006, 03:21 PM

Great Advice! Ok well here is the finished product! Many hours later! LOL!

NorCalDisco2 · 03-29-2006, 10:20 PM

Very pimp, Mel! Nice job!

Roverhound · 03-30-2006, 04:49 AM

I quickly disconnected my sway bars from my chassis and now they're laying on the floor at work.
Actually the rear sway bar was quickly disconnected at Devil's Ditch, to much articulation.
Truthfully with HD rte springs I don't miss them.

RoverChic · 03-30-2006, 07:00 AM

It sort of was a pain in the a** to be honest. Have you added the grease as mentioned in the directions, Alex?

Now on the rear sway bar Walt, can I just pull it when off-roading? And then replace once I am back on the trail again? Thanks

03-28-2006, 03:43 PM	#1 (permalink)
RoverChic Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 778 Gallery: 0	Quick Disconnects ?? For those of you who have the Dave Lucas QD, what tool did you use to remove the lower bolt? That T-40 Torx Bit is not doing the trick......My truck is very RUSTY from living in NY. Any advice??? THANKS! __________________ 2006 Range Rover Sport HSE Rimini Red 2001 D2 CDL 1998 D1 ('Henry' Sold 05/05 Bought Back 01/06 Retired) 1988 RRC SWB ('Silver Bullet' Retired 05/98)

03-28-2006, 03:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
Muddy Oval Otherwise known as STEVE Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Vermont Posts: 1,968 Gallery: 0	The T40 doesn't fit or you just can't get em to turn? __________________ 2002 Freelander 2000 DII w/CDL 1967 SIIA 109SW Former Rovers 2004 Modded "S" Disco, R.I.P. 2004 G4 Disco 2002 Modded Freelander 1995 Modded Disco 1994 D-90 #8 1993 NAS D110 1990 Range Rover County 1973 SIII 88 1972 Range Rover 2 door

03-29-2006, 06:54 AM	#7 (permalink)
Muddy Oval Otherwise known as STEVE Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Vermont Posts: 1,968 Gallery: 0	Soak it in PB Blaster several times a day for a couple days. __________________ 2002 Freelander 2000 DII w/CDL 1967 SIIA 109SW Former Rovers 2004 Modded "S" Disco, R.I.P. 2004 G4 Disco 2002 Modded Freelander 1995 Modded Disco 1994 D-90 #8 1993 NAS D110 1990 Range Rover County 1973 SIII 88 1972 Range Rover 2 door

03-29-2006, 11:04 AM	#8 (permalink)
NorCalDisco2 Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: NorCal Posts: 53 Gallery: 0	careful Just be careful and patient with these. I wasn't and ended up with this. And that's no Walmart special - $18 SnapOn Attached Thumbnails __________________ NorCalDiscoII '03 D2 '06 H3

03-29-2006, 11:48 AM	#10 (permalink)
drum655 Moderator Join Date: May 2005 Location: Newnan, GA Posts: 955 Gallery: 0	personally...i would just put a small screwdriver or something through the hole in the pin where the pin goes that holds the disconnect on. this will keep it from spinning and then you can use a box wrench or socket to get the nut off....i hope this help! __________________ Moderator of the East Coast and Discovery 2 sections! 2001 Disco II SE w/CDL ~Equipe 4x4 Winch Bumper ~Custom steel rear bumper ~Equipe 4x4 steering skid and radiator skid ~RTE rocksliders ~QT services front and rear diff guards ~2" RTE lift ~265/75 r16 Federal Couragia MTs ~Superwinch X9 ~Safety Devices Roof Rack

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Land Rovers Only - Land Rover Forum Advertisement

03-28-2006, 06:53 PM	#4 (permalink)
Rovin4life Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: DOWN UNDER Posts: 1,859 Gallery: 0	Bang the bit in with a hammer and then take it out. I got an impact driver set that does the trick. if you get one for that go for it. It uses the hammer as a means to break the rust and get it out.

03-28-2006, 08:26 PM	#6 (permalink)
Rovin4life Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: DOWN UNDER Posts: 1,859 Gallery: 0	I wont publicly identify myself. Especially at work. but I am no different then any other LR tech in any dealership.

03-29-2006, 03:21 PM	#12 (permalink)
RoverChic Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 778 Gallery: 0	Great Advice! Ok well here is the finished product! Many hours later! LOL! Attached Thumbnails __________________ 2006 Range Rover Sport HSE Rimini Red 2001 D2 CDL 1998 D1 ('Henry' Sold 05/05 Bought Back 01/06 Retired) 1988 RRC SWB ('Silver Bullet' Retired 05/98)

03-29-2006, 10:20 PM	#13 (permalink)
NorCalDisco2 Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: NorCal Posts: 53 Gallery: 0	Very pimp, Mel! Nice job! __________________ NorCalDiscoII '03 D2 '06 H3

03-30-2006, 04:49 AM	#14 (permalink)
Roverhound Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Harrisonburg, Virginia Posts: 730 Gallery: 0	I quickly disconnected my sway bars from my chassis and now they're laying on the floor at work. Actually the rear sway bar was quickly disconnected at Devil's Ditch, to much articulation. Truthfully with HD rte springs I don't miss them. __________________ It just doesn't matter.

03-30-2006, 07:00 AM	#15 (permalink)
RoverChic Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 778 Gallery: 0	It sort of was a pain in the a** to be honest. Have you added the grease as mentioned in the directions, Alex? Now on the rear sway bar Walt, can I just pull it when off-roading? And then replace once I am back on the trail again? Thanks __________________ 2006 Range Rover Sport HSE Rimini Red 2001 D2 CDL 1998 D1 ('Henry' Sold 05/05 Bought Back 01/06 Retired) 1988 RRC SWB ('Silver Bullet' Retired 05/98)

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode