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Rear Main Seal install question

10K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  disco biscuit 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone, I am in the middle of an engine rebuild. I am installing the rear main seal. Can someone confirm how the seal fits in there? Is it flush with the face of the block? I know the manual says to install dry but I'm thinking I should have put a rim of oil on the outside of it. I cut a plastic cup and put it flush with the block and slid my seal on but it isn't going further. Do I need to bang on it harder? I'm using my old seal against the new one to tap it in but it doesn't seem to be moving any more? Does it hang out a little or flush with the block face or recessed? First time here, look at my pic. Thanks,
-Heather
 

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#2 ·
It should go in further. It should be flush with the block a or maybe a little further. If I remember correct there's a shoulder or ridge inside the groove it should be seated against..or at least closer than that.

It looks like the leading edge around the outside of the seal is hanging up on the block. Make sure it doesn't catch when going in. I had to beat the **** out of mine without the proper tool. They make install kits for seals to make it easier. Get a measurement on it before you go... or bring with.

A 2x4 and B.F.H. worked for me. Be careful.
 
#3 ·
Thanks disco biscuit. I just found my pic I took of it a couple months ago (block was in the machine shop for a couple months). It does look like it is flush or even slightly recessed. I guess I will have to beat the hell out of it but gently, ha ha. Must find a better tool. Do you remember if you happened to put a film of oil on the outside rim of the seal?

Thanks,
-Heather
 
#4 ·
I did not put any oil on it. Make sure the surface inside is squeaky clean and the lip inside it seats against. If there's junk inside the corner of that lip, it won't go in. The corner of the 2x4 in a criss cross pattern lightly tapping alot to go in very even. I ended up hitting mine hard but again be careful.

Edit: you can rub the seal where it contacts the crank with oil but don't use it in the block. It helps to keep it there later.
 
#6 ·
Just did this job a couple weeks ago.

Page 12-2-51 of the manual describes the reassembly process and line #2 states "lubricate replacement oil seal with engine oil".

Granted it doesn't specify if we're supposed to lube the ID, the OD, or both, but it also doesn't clearly state "leave the outer surface dry".

I sorta split the difference - I lubed the ID (that touches the crank) with 30wt oil and the OD (that actually fits into the block) with liquid soap. This is how I've done it in the past and I've never had an issue. Installing it dry could easily scratch up the seal surface and lead to leaks down the road.

It should, as you said, fit flush or just recessed as there is a lip on the block and rear main cap that holds it.
 
#7 ·
I realize I'm looking at the older RAVE version and you're right they did change the new one and you're supposed to lubricate the seal. I'm gonna try a little more at getting the seal in before I rip it out and order a new one. Good thing they're not expensive! :smile Thanks,
-Heather
 
#8 ·
I would try soap vs oil on the outside. Good idea. I have used it on other things. I can tell you it goes in right without it. Take a fine grit emery cloth and lightly rub a little. Make sure its clean. I guess you already got it so far in. It'll go I bet.

I used the old seal also to get it in so far then, it cushioned it too much to get it all the way in. If you had a seal press for it, it would be smooth as butter. Its supposed to be tight. It smashes it to a lil smaller diameter as it goes in. Barring any foreign material inside the bore it won't damage it.
 
#9 ·
My husband came up with an ingenious way to get the seal in using the old seal on the end. The split bamboo allows for the equal pressure that it needs. I swore there was no way it would hold up to all the beating but it worked in 5 min! I put a rim of oil around the rest of the exposed inner diameter of the seal. The trimmed yellow cup was used to slide the seal on first without flipping the inner diameter of the seal. I think I will use this method on the front tranny seal too if it's hard to get in since you can basically make any diameter with the bamboo.
-Heather
 

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