After feeling some vibrations in my steering (and car in-general) when accelerating between 35-55mph...I thought it best to remove the front driveshaft.
However...I could not get the 4 bolts on either end loose. I soaked them w/ Aerokroil overnight and will give it another shot this evening. Are these usually a PITA to get loose? (from this forum...removing the DS seems to be the easy).
I've been using 9/16 open wrench on the nut end and 9/16 ratchet on the bolt-head end.
Any ideas how to remove it?
Attached photos included Front DS, Rear DS, and CDL nipple (obviously I've not turned it since I can't remove the ds)
__________________ wt26
-2000 Disco 148K miles. Brush guard Hella lamps. FT7800R rig installed.
-Amateur radio operator.
Start at the pinion. I've found that box wrenches with the sides ground down work well. Use a god open-end wrench on the nuts.
At the transfer case end, once the pinion end is free, you can get a socket on them. Use an open-end wrench to keep the bolt from moving or you'll be pulling the flange.
Kroil rocks! Best stuff I've used.
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P. T. Schram Rover Repair
Full-service independent Land Rover facility
I ain't got much a nothing at all, but I damned sure got it made. If you don't like the way I'm living, you just leave the silly Rover boy 'lone!
Yeah, my PM box is full. If you want help, need parts, are on the ledge and need to be talked back, e-mail me at PT@PTSchram.com or call me at 260-804-0458.
If you don't like my attitude, I really don't care, but I will help you fix your truck anyway.
I tried the open-end wrench (9/16th) on the nuts last night and it starting rounding em. I don't plan on re-using the nuts/bolts but am still stumped on how to best get them loose/off
__________________ wt26
-2000 Disco 148K miles. Brush guard Hella lamps. FT7800R rig installed.
-Amateur radio operator.
I tried the open-end wrench (9/16th) on the nuts last night and it starting rounding em. I don't plan on re-using the nuts/bolts but am still stumped on how to best get them loose/off
You're in central Indiana, where?
I'm in Churubusco, near Fort Wayne.
ptschram.com
Bring it up here, I'll get them off for you.
__________________
P. T. Schram Rover Repair
Full-service independent Land Rover facility
I ain't got much a nothing at all, but I damned sure got it made. If you don't like the way I'm living, you just leave the silly Rover boy 'lone!
Yeah, my PM box is full. If you want help, need parts, are on the ledge and need to be talked back, e-mail me at PT@PTSchram.com or call me at 260-804-0458.
If you don't like my attitude, I really don't care, but I will help you fix your truck anyway.
its sam from indy. (I was up there couple fridays ago...sorry for the confusion).
I plan on ordering a TW or Great Basin Rover DS at some point (sooner than I planned thanks to the increasing vibrations I'm getting!! guess I'm fortunate that I have some sort of warning)
__________________ wt26
-2000 Disco 148K miles. Brush guard Hella lamps. FT7800R rig installed.
-Amateur radio operator.
Damn! I knew we should have pulled it off when you were here.
Sorry for not doing it then. We're lucky you had some advance warning.
Give Gary a call, maybe he can help get the old one off for you.
__________________
P. T. Schram Rover Repair
Full-service independent Land Rover facility
I ain't got much a nothing at all, but I damned sure got it made. If you don't like the way I'm living, you just leave the silly Rover boy 'lone!
Yeah, my PM box is full. If you want help, need parts, are on the ledge and need to be talked back, e-mail me at PT@PTSchram.com or call me at 260-804-0458.
If you don't like my attitude, I really don't care, but I will help you fix your truck anyway.
A Tom woods shaft will vibrate as well
To get the bolts off just cut them, you said you don't plan on reusing them. You will have to pull both flanges to replace the bolts. For new bolts I used 3/8" grade 8 from my local hardware store.
But before you cut them I've always had luck with a 14mm and a impact. If you raise the vehicle by the frame, it will drop the axel so you can get your impact in there
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2000 d2 33"s cdl, 3 inch rte +1" in rear , custom bumpers, fox shocks
__________________
P. T. Schram Rover Repair
Full-service independent Land Rover facility
I ain't got much a nothing at all, but I damned sure got it made. If you don't like the way I'm living, you just leave the silly Rover boy 'lone!
Yeah, my PM box is full. If you want help, need parts, are on the ledge and need to be talked back, e-mail me at PT@PTSchram.com or call me at 260-804-0458.
If you don't like my attitude, I really don't care, but I will help you fix your truck anyway.
What kind of wrenches are you using? If you can get a 6 sided 9/16" long pattern combination or box end wrenches they would be the best. Also a good option is to put the combo wrench on the bolt (facing the gear boxes) then use a nice long 3/8 drive ratchet with a 6 sided 9/16" socket on a 8-10" extension. Sounds like they are really on there so you need to get a 6 sided fastener on them or you will round them off.
P.t I know that they are 9/16 . But if you gently tap a 14 on there they tend not to round . Try it its only .28 mm smaller than a 9/16 and I seriously doubt that its going to be to to snug or whatnot, on his rig judging by his pictures it looks slightly rusty, perhaps .28 mm of rust? Just try it
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2000 d2 33"s cdl, 3 inch rte +1" in rear , custom bumpers, fox shocks
Heat the nut side with a gas burner for about a minute until yo see some bubbles from the sealant used to lock it. Then use a water pump pliers to turn the nut. It took my son and I 10 minutes to get the shaft off. We used a piece of sheet metal to protect the wiring above he shaft
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