Rust removal from rear undercarriage of 2000 Disco II

[nasa25]

Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone has ever attempted a rust removal process for the rear undercarriage (tow package, undercarriage directly behind gas tank, etc). I'm assuming that even with regular rustrpoofing, most of us in cold weather climates have built up rust in this area. What is the best way to go about removing this rust and restoring the area back to somewhere near its original state? Should I contract the job out to a body shop or attempt it on my own? My local inderpendent LR shop has told me that its a tedious job that they would only do on their vehicles.....any thoughts. Just some background info.....I had the rear undercarriage repainted with rust proof spraypaint last October, and it looked pretty decent, but the brutal winter here in Toronto has caused the area to return to its original rusted state (I guess I should have specified that I actually wanted the rust to be removed before the undercarriage was painted)....any thoughts would be greatly appreciated....thanks.

[TrentE]

I hope you get some good ideas, I've started to see more rust on the back undercarriage after this winter and too would like to know how to deal with it. The Disco was in Alberta until last year and they don't use salt but now I'm back in Saskatchewan they use potash trailings and it is extreamly corrosive...hope some one can help.

[bartell]

Originally Posted by nasa25

Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone has ever attempted a rust removal process for the rear undercarriage (tow package, undercarriage directly behind gas tank, etc). I'm assuming that even with regular rustpoofing, most of us in cold weather climates have built up rust in this area. What is the best way to go about removing this rust and restoring the area back to somewhere near its original state?

Once rust has taken hold, rust proofing is analogous to throwing the baby out with the bath water. When the vehicle is Factory fresh, rust proofing can be used to coat/seal metal from the rusting elements. If used AFTER rust has begun, it simply speeds the rusting process by sealing it in.

Additionally, if you try to remove anything more extensive than surface rust, you will weaken or pierce the metal, completing the damage the rust has begun. Of course cutting out the rusted sections and replacing or welding in new is great, but you will be sadly surprised how much cutting out you will have do and it is very expensive and long.

Your best bet is to use a rust converter. These products react with rust and convert it to a hard non-rusting metal byproduct. The surfaces must be clean of oil, grease or dirt contamination and for this I would suggest a marine degreaser/etcher. After that, you can use the converter. Coat the areas carefully, leave for 24 hours to cure fully, and coat again.

James

P.S. Do NOT go near POR-15

[ArmyRover]

I have had good luck so far with cleaning up, rust converter, followed by a coat of POR-15 but that's my experience and 2 cents take it for what it's worth.

[nasa25]

great....thanks for all your help guys.....its much appreciated!