Speaking of this U-Joint thing...

[brian4d]

Speaking of this u-joint thing, I'm looking at 74,000 miles and I get a vibration in the steering wheel only with my foot on the gas. I have no chirping sounds at all. I just got a band new transmission put in about 3,000 miles ago under warranty. The question is this: If I had a u-joint about to fail would the dealership say the hell with it and put my old u-joint back on? Or would they call me and say, "This isn't covered under warranty, but you're going to need new u-joints."? Surely, they wouldn't throw the front driveshaft back on the truck after replacing the entire transmission with u-joint that look old, warn and about to fail? Wouldn't that be a liability for the dealership? I have also mentioned on 3 different occasions that my steering wheel vibrates at 35 through 40 MPH while accelerating. They have told me 3 different times they can't duplicate the problem. Go figure. Any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated guys! BTW 02, Disco II SE. I have had $6,000 worth of warranty work from the dealer in the past 6 months. Doesn't help when you need a $500 windshield wiper motor! What can I say, I've got that compulsive disorder.

[Disco Mike]

Dealers get in trouble up selling to warranty companys. If they noticed it was bad they should say something.
Now go get it checked just in case it is something serious.
Mike

[brian4d]

Mike, thanks for the advice but I have. 3 different times at the same dealer. It's never had new rotors, ever. I've read this can be cause by warped rotors. Wouldn't be covered reguardless. I'm not going to resign with LR for the new Warr. they're crazy. Wanting $4,000 for another 25,000 miles. I've gone over the truck with a fine tooth comb. $6,000 in work. Little things, I'll name them if I can remember.

-steering damper
-wiper motor (stick when cold)
-door lock
-transmission
-oil pan gasket (front)
-(2) water pump gaskets - antifreeze spray on back windshield
-Tensioner pully and drive line (classic engine tick, tick, tick)

There's more I just can't remember (about 5,500 worth of work) There's a running joke at the dealer with the writers, "See ya in 6 months Brian!" All in all it's NEVER left me stranded, I can't say that about my past SUV. What warr. company would you reccomend from this point on? Thanks Mike!

[Bamafan485]

I think you can get a wiper motor from RoverlandParts for around $100 bucks.

[Steph]

Well, this ususally doesn't apply to Rovers, but vibration under acceleration is usually related to rear pinion angles. Have you played with the suspension or was it lifted when you purchased it ???

[brian4d]

No lift, bone stock. I've heard rotors might be the issue. It doesn't happen every time, more like every 3 time I accelerate right at 32-37 mph then goes away. No vibes at highway speeds either. Normal??? This is perplexing. By the way Steph, the ticking noise from my engine ended up being the tensioner pully and new drive line. Thought you might like to know.

BR

[antichrist]

Get a couple of 9/16" wrenches and check it yourself. Remove the propshaft. All u-joints should move smoothly around both axis. They shouldn't be really loose, no play when holding the the flange on the end and the shaft near the u-joint and tryng to rotate in opposite directions.
The dealer could have put it back on without noticing one or more of the journals was seized. Seized journals will cause vibration.

[Alak]

I would just change them all anyways if you take the shaft out.

I was under looking at mine the other day and 2 out of the 3 front u-joints are grease-able. Someone did a half-assed job.


I'd also check the rear roto-coupling while Im down there. If they had to take the transmission out, they had to mess around with it.

[Steph]

As the guys suggest, If it hasn't been done yet, you should change your front driveshaft u-joints anyways. So maybe trying this and see if it fixes your vibes.

Glad you solved your ticking. So now I know that ticking can also be related to idler pulleys. Kinda weird, cause idler pulleys usually emit a rattling sound rather than a ticking one.

[brian4d]

I'm sort of a noob when it comes to this, although I'm handy with a wrench. Any help is much appreciated. I called AMCO and Cottsman Transmission the other day. The guy at AMCO to totally useless. I asked, "Do you guys rebuild drive shafts, new u-joints, that sort of thing?" He said he had no idea what I was talking about and didn't know where I could get it done. The guy at Cottsman said "Sure bring it in we might have to send your drive shaft somewhere else." (Maybe for a re-balance?) Questions is, is there not one specific shop what will do ALL drive train, drive shaft kind-of-work? If so what would I look for in the yellow pages? I live in Greensboro, NC. Is there a brand of u-joint you would recommend? I'm thinking of buying it from BA and just letting the rebuild shop use the u-joint I bought.

Also, I about 70% sure my auto insurence covers Cat-failures and damage to other core parts of my vehical. Anyone else had experience with this?

[Steph]

I got it done by a driveline specialist but I know a lot of guys in my area that get it done by a place that specialises in suspensions and big trucks. They do coils springs, leaf springs, driveshafts etc... So maybe looking for such a shop in your area.

As far as u-joint makes, neapco would be the cheapest ones with precision in the middle and spicer being the best. But some say that nowadays spicer get them built and have their logo applied to them and question their quality. But I followed my specialists advice and went with spicer. To take it off, do the job and reinstall cost me $280.00 out the door.

[robross]

I have a vibration from somewhere under the rear when in idle, but only when the engine has just been started (goes away either when the RPM drops a bit or when I start driving). Is this likely a u-joint, or could it be some kind of loose muffler hanger?

[Steph]

U-joints don't move at idle. So the muffler hanger suggestion is pretty plausible.

[brian4d]

I was only able to find one place here, "Fleet Pride" that does drive lines. I'll try them. Thanks for the help everyone!

[brian4d]

1. Is there 1 U-joint for the front drive shaft? While the shaft is off should anything else be replaced?


2. Should I go ahead and get the drive shaft re-balanced as well?

3. I would like to take the parts (u-joint) to them. I know it needs to be greasable. Spicer? Precision? Stock?