TC, ABS and HDC lights

[Bamafan485]

My lights are on and have been on for a couple of months now. How important is it that i get this looked at and fixed immediately? What will I run into if I don't?

[Disco Mike]

After months of having them on, you are wondering how important is it, that is one of the funnier things I have read today.
Most people don't loose their brake function, some do.
Since it is not real important to you when brake warning lights come on, I am not going to waist too much time with this other then to say either spend a lot of time doing searches on any of the Rover forums or go straight to your mechanic. By the way the check up/ repair can run from $100 to the mid $2500 range.
Mike

[auwesman]

Search "Three Amigos" and/or "3 Amgios" and you will find PLENTY of info on this subject. About a dozen things can be wrong, from as simple as a dirty sensor, to....I think I remember reading about a bad spark plug causing it on someones disco.

[Bamafan485]

Is the LR dealership the way to go?

[Bamafan485]

I guess what I meant to ask was is it going to cost me any more money when whatever it is screws up than to get it done right now?

[scottagnew101]

The LR dealer my be the way to go if your dealer has a good rep.

Mine was telling me BS out of BS The best advice is to first go to a gravel road and drive around 20 MPH and slam on the brakes... if the ABS kicks in (a pulse in the peddal) then your problems is most likely not all that serious. The next thing to do would be to get the codes read and do 2 things. First find out if they are "historic" or current. Then find out what exactly the codes are. Most likely your best bet is going to be an indy shop, they will be cheaper to get the codes read, more honest, and maybe even free (to get the codes read). After that if everything is historic, it might just need to be cleared and you can be on your way with no cost but the code read. And the cheapist seniaro might be a shuttle valve or an ABS sensor wire. or it could be the entire unit. This is where the codes come in. Let us know whats going on.

Scott

[Bamafan485]

Got on the brakes pretty good tonight in some gravel. ABS works thank god. Going to get the codes read at the end of the week.

[Neo1975]

Was you checking out the brakes when you had to get on them, or was it a have to case? That can get alittle scary on gravel.

[wimp]

don't forget that a bad wheel bearing / hub assembly can be the problem. I just ran into that recently. Had to change the hub assembly. Not only will the lights be on, but you will also most likely have symptoms of a bad bearing. with the car on the ground or on the lift, grab the wheel and shake it in and out. You are looking for play in the wheel bearing. this would be one circumstance where you would want to take care of it sooner than later. If you let it go too long, it could cause some damage to other components.

just a thought

[Disco Mike]

Originally Posted by Neo1975

Was you checking out the brakes when you had to get on them, or was it a have to case? That can get alittle scary on gravel.

Call your dealer first, see if they will read and then clear the codes, if they won't, find a small shop with a good lap top scanner that can read and clear, because since your ABS is still working, you may beable to clear the codes and not have them come back on.
Mike

[scottagnew101]

Originally Posted by Bamafan485

Got on the brakes pretty good tonight in some gravel. ABS works thank god. Going to get the codes read at the end of the week.

Hey thats awesome. But i do have to say that when mine where on when i bought the truck that was the case for me too. they stayed off for months. if you have the same ordeal the best advice i can give next is to check the color of the brake fluid. I think that mine would have continued to operate normally if i would have changed the brake fluid (a complete flush) because mine was really brown i think that threw off my shuttle valve.

When i did my complete fluid change it took like 2.5 of those little bottles of DOT 4 fluid. just "bleed" the brakes like normal starting from front pass; front driver, rear pass, rear driver. Open the bleed line, have a friend push on the pedal; keep pedal depressed, close valve, and repeat until the fluid comes out clear. every now and then you will need to add the new fluid to the reservoir. If you do this odds are your shuttle valve wont go on you; and over the years/miles just keep an eye on the color.

I think it should need to be replaced every 50-60k miles (mike?)

Scott

[Bamafan485]

I have checked the color and it is still looks pretty good. Hopefully this will all get ironed out this weekend. I found a shop here in Tuscaloosa that can work on it.