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Water Pump replacement / Antifreeze replacement?

3K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  Wrkngman 
#1 ·
First of all......I have recently bought my first Rover; a used 99 Land Rover Disco II with 182,000 miles. My serpentine belt was squeeling, yet seemed fairly tight, so I purchased a can of belt dressing just to stop the squeeling. Seems that my water pump bearing was causing the belt to slip over the water pump pulley. Anyhow, I purchased a new water pump (being sent to my local parts store), and figured I would begin pulling the old one off.
I feel like an idiot for even asking this, but how do I replace the antifreeze after draining the system?? Is there anything special that needs to be done before replacing the antifreeze? I've done a little research, and discovered the system should be flushed multiple times beforehand.
The closest Land Rover dealer is over an hour away, and I would really like to repair this myself.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Re: Drain & refill - download RAVE manual (In Disco Mikes' signature) That'll give you all the details on that and everything else you'll be doing to your disco.
Re: your waterpump - I hope you didn't buy a rebuilt? For what parts stores charge for rebuilds you can buy new. One of the best out there is one from BP of Utah. Pt# STC4378X it's an Airtex HD unit w/3 yr warranty. It goes for $145 but it's new & has HD impeller & bearing. I just installed one of these & I'll post pics shortly.
 

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#3 ·
I agree, most water pumps from parts stores are pure crap, cancel the order and order an AirTex from British Parts of Utah, also with your mileage, you should seriously consider replacing the oil pump assembly as well as your timing chain set cause if they are original then they are warn out.
 
#4 ·
I did buy a new water pump. This is my first repair on my new "used" car. I've actually only had it 2 weeks........hell, I've just recently got the title in the mail, LOL. I had a feeling I would have early on failures with this car, considering the good deal I got on it, and the lack of newer parts I saw when inspecting it.
I do want to verify a post I read, and make sure I understood correctly. When I get everything together.......I need to refill the system via the coolant reservoir tank? Start the engine to operating temp (when the thermostat opens), and keep repeating until the reservoir holds its level? And....checking every day for a few days? Can I fill (at all) through the cap on the left hand side of the radiator? And (last question for now)......would it help the refilling if I removed this cap periodically?
 
#5 ·
First, again, who's water pump is it, by brand and what did you pay for it?
As for directions you need to read the Rave and follow the directions and or send me your number and I'll answer your questions.
I noticed you paid no attention to my suggestion regarding the oil pump and timing chain.
 
#7 ·
RAVE manual

Ok.......the RAVE manual downloaded, but for some reason I cannot open it. I was forced to get a Duralast water pump (best offered), which I payed $190 for. Closest dealership is almost two hours from me, and without a water pump, I couldn't drive there anyways. As far as the oil pump and timing chain......I don't have the time or money to change those this weekend. The timing chain should have already been changed (assumption) considering the mileage though.
 
#6 ·
Dont run a dry water pump. The seals will very quickly go and you will be making a new replacement in a few days. After you remove the hoses and old pump flush your system per the RAVE manual. I used the green coolant and water weter to refill. Make sure you fill the lower hoses as you re-assemble and then remove the bleeder screw (mine is on top hose slightly to pass side) and continue refill through your expansion tank. Once you think your full then squeeze all of your hoses a few times to work the air out. Refill and repeat. The seals in your water pump will fail in air. Also the thermostat will not open if there is no source of hot coolant to open it. Run it up to temperature, let it cool for at least 30 mins and carefully open the expansion tank while covering with a rag and standing behind the hood. I had a buddy who got coated with hot coolant 10 years ago. You can still tell by looking at him today.
 
#8 ·
Well you did what you had to. No need to get into could have's. Just make sure you have all the air out of it. You may want to go ahead and order another pump from ptschram, bputah.com or even atlanticbritish.com.
Good Luck, watch your temp gage.
 
#9 ·
So far so good. I let it idle up to operating temp, then let it cool down a few times. I checked the coolant level, and added maybe a 1/4 gallon to top it off. Heater is working, so that's a good sign. No leaks from around the pump.
BUT, I do have another problem. While taking it for a test drive my brake pedal traveled a lot further down than it was. Is there something with the brake system I don't know about, when disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery cable? This should probably be another thread, but you guys have been so helpful already.
 
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