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#16 (permalink) | |
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California Dreamin'
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 285
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Quote:
![]() If your pump managed to ingest water you very well may have water in your bags. If there is water in the pump when you remove it I'd recommend removing the bags as well. Sounds like a good time to upgrade to springs! ![]() |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Harrisonburg, Virginia
Posts: 830
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Quote:
I deal with machine design, wiring, layouts, panel building, drive controls and plc programming. As well as some training and trouble shooting on competetors equipment. I've also been involved in some pc based machine controls but I kind of feel if you want a plc use a plc. Commercial electricians deal with larger structure designs and then residential is self explanatory. To go back to the contact cleaner, you do need to be careful with some of that stuff, it can end up ruining what it is used to clean. You can shake most of the WD-40 out, it'll dry up meanwhile displacing all the water. Oil doesn't conduct and it'll actually help clean the contacts of dust and light films. Another way to clean pcb's up if you have the time is rinsing it with distilled water. Blot throughly and put it in the oven to dry. No, don't turn the oven on! The lower humidity in the oven will make it dry quicker. This is how I know! ![]()
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#18 (permalink) |
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'99 Disco II
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 344
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Here's what I've got now...
On the SLS pump... I removed and took it apart. full of water dissasambled the piston and cleaned the cyl. shook all the water out, re-assambled, ran it on the bench. blew the rest of the water out. Runs like a top!!! blew out the intake line and feed lines with compressor. re-assembeld the unit, put a new fuse in (old one was blown). Works great! Do I need to buy a new dryer (that canister on the intake line)? Transmission in Limp mode... pulled all the electrical connections apart, pulled the ecu for the tranny, blew them all dry with compressed air. put everything back together again. Got an error code.... PO753 (8) Solenoid Valve 1 check intermittent open or short +12v I rechecked all the connections to make sure they are dry. they are.. I grabbed an ecu from another functioning disco II installed it. Works great. No codes, no limp mode. I am going to try to dry the ecu some more, but am not hopeful. Where can I get a new or used functioning ECU for my Disco II? any online sources? thanks
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'99 Disco II ACE / 2" OME lift 245 75 R16 Greatyear MT/R's
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#19 (permalink) |
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California Dreamin'
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 285
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Try http://www.car-part.com/ or as a last resort http://www.roverlandparts.com/
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Ian Matthews
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 2,253
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Quote:
People have a choice of using a product that is designed to lubricate and breakdown rust that leaves an oil residual to clean circuit boards or use a product that is specifically designed to clean circuit boards and leaves no residual and will clean any of the white residual that last been left by the water off the contacts and circuits. I don't think it is really that hard a choice. Just curious, Roverhound, how many DII ECUs that have been full of mud and water have you actually cleaned out and how long have they ran for afterwards. I have cleaned out a few with contact cleaner and they are still running years later. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Harrisonburg, Virginia
Posts: 830
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I've done plenty of TTL and circuit board diagnostics and repairs.
Once again you have proven that you are an expert at everything and I humbly bow down to your huge knowledge bank. By the way, what is it you do for a living? Everything?
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#23 (permalink) |
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Ian Matthews
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 2,253
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I am not the one making up occupations to suit the argument they are trying to put forward. I did not ask whether you had repair circuit boards, what I asked is how many drowned ECUs have you got going again by spraying WD40 over them.
If you look on the WD40 website, they have 2,000 uses for WD40. Guess what, cleaning circuit boards is not one one them. And it is WD40 and not contact cleaners that have had adverse impacts on certain types of plastics. So Roverhound, next time that you try to add weight to your argument by making up an occupation, check what occupation you put on the member profile first. You can accuse me of what you like, but I don't lie. And yes, I am a jack of all trades when it comes to 4WDs. When you only way out is to get the thing going, you better know how to get it going. You give me shit at every opportunity, even start complete threads to try and put me down. So don't give me crap when I have a go at you giving crook advice and trying to back up that advice by trying to make out you actually have some expertise in the matter. |
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#24 (permalink) |
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'99 Disco II
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 344
Gallery:
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Still trying to dry mine out, but not hopeful. still get error code..
P0753 (8) intermittent open or shorted solenoid valve it is definitely the ecu because i tried another ecu and everything works fine Anyway anyone have a spare ecu or a used one from a parts truck? thanks ![]()
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'99 Disco II ACE / 2" OME lift 245 75 R16 Greatyear MT/R's
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#25 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Harrisonburg, Virginia
Posts: 830
Gallery:
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Try Will Tillery on Dweb for parts, very reasonable with fast shipping.
Whatever P. The truck pictured had the tcu cleaned with WD-40 more then a year ago with still no problems. Yeah, I'm just making up that occupation to keep you entertained. Please do a search and you'll find where I claim I'm a rocket scientist, a priest, a cowboy and even a street vendor selling hot dogs in NYC. So once again, what is it you do? Seriously what's your field of expertise? You think you know it all.
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#26 (permalink) |
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'99 Disco II
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 344
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Thank you all for the great advice in cleaning up the ECU.
To put the argument to rest, the following info is from a few online sourses who seem to be very proud of their circuit board knowledge... Roverhound is absolutely correct with his wd-40 method. Actually, so is anyone who would have used just about anything that is a solvent. The industrial method for cleaning circuit boards is first a mild solvent (citrus, alcohol, wd-40, etc.). Apply solvent. Scrub, scrub, scrub. Then rinse with mild soapy water (sometimes solvents can harm the board itself if left for a long period of time. usually ok though). Scrub, scrub, scrub. Then rinse clean with distilled or other pure water. so as to not leave any electolite deposits (from city water) on the circuits. According the few tech websites, many people skip the rinse step and still do just fine. The rinse is just a precaution. Actually some people spray the cleaned board with silicone spray to keep future oxidation and humidty off the board. Just do a quick search online for wd-40 clean circuit board. You'll get plenty of info from people who seem to be VERY into their circuit boards. Anyway. I used WD-40, scrub, De-Solve it, scrub, soap and water, scrub, soap and water, scrub, rinse, rinse, rinse, shake shake shake, hair dryer, oven at 100 deg F for 2 hours. Works like a charm! Had to do the same to my Hamon Kardon amp too! Works like a charm! ![]()
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'99 Disco II ACE / 2" OME lift 245 75 R16 Greatyear MT/R's
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#27 (permalink) |
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'99 Disco II
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 344
Gallery:
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Sorry, but I would hate to deny you all a picture of the water crossing that almost claimed my SLS pump and Tranny ECU....
This was taken on my way back through the same pit. The exit in the foreground is very steep despite what you can see in the picture. That is where I got stuck....trying to climb the steep mud! Fun Fun ![]()
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'99 Disco II ACE / 2" OME lift 245 75 R16 Greatyear MT/R's
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#29 (permalink) |
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Solihull Society, CO and High Desert Rovers, NM Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,307
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To quote:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40 WD-40 is the trademark of a substance widely used as a penetrating oil (cleaner, lubricant and anti-corrosive solution) spray. It was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen (then working for the Rocket Chemical Company) to eliminate water and prevent corrosion on electrical circuitry. It also has many household uses. WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt", a name which came from Larsen's laboratory notebook. Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion by displacing water, and arrived at the formula on his 40th try.[1] A common myth is that "WD" stands for "war department". But no one believes that because that is really really dumb It was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion. The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958 5 seconds of Dogpile search..... Information! GENIUS!
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Todd Carpe Rangius Roverum |
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#30 (permalink) |
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'99 Disco II
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 344
Gallery:
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On the banks of the Farmington River in Simsbury. The river flooded big time last week. Left a lot of water pockets everywhere! Fun!
Here Here! Thor. Internet is great. A wealth of info. Once you find multiple good sources of info that agree, you get a pretty good feeling that you got the right stuff! My main source of info on this one was Roverhound, p76 Rangie (although his contribution turned argumentative), and another tech / geek forum which dealt with chips and circuit boards. Everybody seemed to agree for the most part. Slightly different method of application, but generally the same stuff. I made a decision on how I was going to do it, and it seems to have worked! ![]()
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'99 Disco II ACE / 2" OME lift 245 75 R16 Greatyear MT/R's
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