Whistling/squealing coming from engine when accelerator is engaged - Land Rovers Only

nasa25 · 03-08-2008, 01:13 PM

Hi All,

I have a 2000 Discovery. Just this morning I was driving in some heavy snow and I noticed that the service engine soon light flashed 3 times and now is solid, but its on permanently. I called the dealer and they said that as long as its still not flashing constantly, the problem isn't extremely critical. I do believe that a few seconds before the lights came on, I pressed the accelerator while doing around 20km/h, and I got little or no response (didn't seem to rev the engine much). A few seconds after that is when the light came on. Also, I notice that I can hear a whistling when I have my foot on the accelerator. As soon as I take my foot off the pedal, the noise goes away. When I rev the engine in park, I hear a more pronounced squealing. Any ideas? Thanks.

I have just had the alternator rebuilt and replaced the front passenger lock actuator last week so I am a bit numb from all problems all at once (I wish my Discovery could at least spread them out a bit).

Disco Mike · 03-08-2008, 04:45 PM

Your whistle could be a belt, idler pulley, some bearing or a blown head gasket venting exhaust from between the head and the block.
Need to find it before something gets worse.
Mike

nasa25 · 03-08-2008, 07:13 PM

thanks for the input Mike. I just replaced the head and intake gasket last March and it seems to be working well.....hopefully its not that. I will be taking it in to my local shop on Monday for them to read the code and do the necessary repairs. One of my LR contacts from the UK whom is correct most of the time thinks it is one of the turbo hoses....hopefully I'm lucky and it is just a hose....I would like to get off easy at least some of the time.

Disco Mike · 03-09-2008, 08:04 AM

Oh, you left out the tubro on your first post, yes, that makes since.
Let us know what you find.
Mike

nasa25 · 03-09-2008, 10:08 AM

mike...when I posed the problem to my contact in the UK, I never mentioned anything about "turbo"....please forgive my lack of knowledge as far as the engine is concerned, but I believe that my 2000 Disco has a 4.0L V8 (which is standard). My UK contact mentioned the "turbo unitor hose to turbo or coller split" (this was exactly what messaged me back saying might be the problem). Please again excuse my ignorance, but to the best of my knowledge my engine isn't turbo. Could my UK contact be under the impression that it is, and, as such, given a diagnosis based on this?

XtremeMarine · 03-09-2008, 10:26 AM

I believe, that this is in fact the case. Are you located in the states? If so, in 2000, the only engine offered in NAS cars, is the 4.0 petrol v8. Send your engine type to your contact, and ask for a new diagnosis. Good luck.

nasa25 · 03-09-2008, 10:50 AM

I am near Toronto Canada. The engine was compliant with Canadian Auto standards for a 2000 year model. As far as I know its just stock 4.0L v8. I have emailed my UK contact notifying him of this and asking for his opinion given his new knowledge of my engine. I will let you all know what he says, and, when I take it in this week, the true problem for everyone's reference. Thanks for everyone's help.

nasa25 · 03-09-2008, 10:57 AM

my contact messaged me back saying that the turbo engine wasn't manufactured for the Canadian market. His new diagnosis is "pipe split air" (his exact words). I guess I will know for sure in a few days. I will keep you all posted.

nasa25 · 03-09-2008, 10:59 AM

actually the diagnosis was "pipe spilt air". Not sure is my contact meant to type "Split" or "Spilt" (Spilled). What I make of this is that I maybe have a leak in a pipe somewhere.

nasa25 · 03-11-2008, 08:53 AM

update - I drove the vehicle home on Sunday night (I was away for the weekend). Every time I accelerated past 60km/h or so, the engine would start to struggle. Over 100km.h or so it seemed to settle down though. I drove it in to my mechanic on Monday morning with SES light still illuminated, stopped for coffee, then when I restarted the vehicle, presto, no light. I drove it to the garage and restarted it again and still no light. At least the fault codes are stored in thr ECU from when the light was on. My mechanic will be looking at it today and report back to me. I wish the light going out meant no more problem, but, from how the engine is running, I know there has to be. Most plausible problem is a vacuum leak (leak in a hose somewhere) which is robbing the engine of proper airflow and thus making it run rough. I hope its not more than that. A big repair bill will blow my budget right out of the water. I will let everyone know the outcome of my saga.

fyi....I am getting my mechanic to do a full inspection so no little surprises pop up again....its around $100 but well worth it for my piece of mind.

I guess this is the daily insanity of LR ownership.....sometimes I get mad at my truck, but then I look at it and think "its too damn sexy to stay mad at". If it werent as sexy, I think my BS limit would have already been reached.

nasa25 · 03-12-2008, 06:02 PM

update....turns out it was a multiple cylinder misfire....2,4, and 8 I believe. My mechanic thinks it is due to carbon buildup (I downgraded from 94 octane in the summer to 91 in the winter due to better fuel efficiency). I have another theory:

A few weeks back I had my alternator rebuilt. Although, the shop put in a voltage regulator that fit my alternator, but was actually manufactured for a passat. In cold conditions, my battery light comes on upon startup, but I was told to just rev the engine and the spike in the RPM solves the problem (passat idles at a higher rpm than does the disco). I called atlantic british today and spoke to one of their reps.....he said given the cylinders that misfired, I may be looking at a coilpack issue. Would the incorrect calibration of the voltage regulator be causing one or both of my coilpacks to fail, which is, in turn, causing cylinder misfires? To think about it, from the very weekend I had my rebuilt alternator put in, I noticed that my engine was sputtering when I accelerated past 60km/h or so up to around 100-110, then it seems to run a bit smoother.....as I said. this is a total shot in the dark here....but if the coilpack is getting incorrect voltage, would this be the cause of my misfire? Please bear in mind that I have only limited knowledge on engines so I'm just going on my bit of research that I did.

nasa25 · 03-12-2008, 06:04 PM

oh...and the sqealing is most likely being caused by a bearing around the pulley my mechanic said....so its unrelated to the engine misfire

nasa25 · 03-13-2008, 07:33 AM

coilpacks checked out.....there's massive carbon builup in the engine which caused 2,4, and 8 to misfire. They did a cleaning of the engine (left the solution in overnight) and have advised me to only use sunoco 94 (I use 94 in the summer and shell 91 in the winter due to improved fuel efficiency). So my engine will be on a steady diet of 94 octane fuel and fuel injector cleaner and hopefully I can stave off the dreaded $2200 valve job.

03-08-2008, 01:13 PM	#1 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	Whistling/squealing coming from engine when accelerator is engaged Hi All, I have a 2000 Discovery. Just this morning I was driving in some heavy snow and I noticed that the service engine soon light flashed 3 times and now is solid, but its on permanently. I called the dealer and they said that as long as its still not flashing constantly, the problem isn't extremely critical. I do believe that a few seconds before the lights came on, I pressed the accelerator while doing around 20km/h, and I got little or no response (didn't seem to rev the engine much). A few seconds after that is when the light came on. Also, I notice that I can hear a whistling when I have my foot on the accelerator. As soon as I take my foot off the pedal, the noise goes away. When I rev the engine in park, I hear a more pronounced squealing. Any ideas? Thanks. I have just had the alternator rebuilt and replaced the front passenger lock actuator last week so I am a bit numb from all problems all at once (I wish my Discovery could at least spread them out a bit).

03-08-2008, 04:45 PM	#2 (permalink)
Disco Mike Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 6,069 Gallery: 0	Your whistle could be a belt, idler pulley, some bearing or a blown head gasket venting exhaust from between the head and the block. Need to find it before something gets worse. Mike Last edited by Disco Mike : 03-09-2008 at 08:02 AM. Reason: spelling

03-09-2008, 10:26 AM	#6 (permalink)
XtremeMarine Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,590 Gallery: 0	I believe, that this is in fact the case. Are you located in the states? If so, in 2000, the only engine offered in NAS cars, is the 4.0 petrol v8. Send your engine type to your contact, and ask for a new diagnosis. Good luck. __________________ "In certain places, at certain hours, gazing at the sea is dangerous. It is what looking at a woman sometimes is." - Victor Hugo Originally Posted by Elemental Some guys play hard to get, I play hard to want.

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03-08-2008, 07:13 PM	#3 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	thanks for the input Mike. I just replaced the head and intake gasket last March and it seems to be working well.....hopefully its not that. I will be taking it in to my local shop on Monday for them to read the code and do the necessary repairs. One of my LR contacts from the UK whom is correct most of the time thinks it is one of the turbo hoses....hopefully I'm lucky and it is just a hose....I would like to get off easy at least some of the time.

03-09-2008, 08:04 AM	#4 (permalink)
Disco Mike Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 6,069 Gallery: 0	Oh, you left out the tubro on your first post, yes, that makes since. Let us know what you find. Mike

03-09-2008, 10:08 AM	#5 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	mike...when I posed the problem to my contact in the UK, I never mentioned anything about "turbo"....please forgive my lack of knowledge as far as the engine is concerned, but I believe that my 2000 Disco has a 4.0L V8 (which is standard). My UK contact mentioned the "turbo unitor hose to turbo or coller split" (this was exactly what messaged me back saying might be the problem). Please again excuse my ignorance, but to the best of my knowledge my engine isn't turbo. Could my UK contact be under the impression that it is, and, as such, given a diagnosis based on this?

03-09-2008, 10:50 AM	#7 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	I am near Toronto Canada. The engine was compliant with Canadian Auto standards for a 2000 year model. As far as I know its just stock 4.0L v8. I have emailed my UK contact notifying him of this and asking for his opinion given his new knowledge of my engine. I will let you all know what he says, and, when I take it in this week, the true problem for everyone's reference. Thanks for everyone's help.

03-09-2008, 10:57 AM	#8 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	my contact messaged me back saying that the turbo engine wasn't manufactured for the Canadian market. His new diagnosis is "pipe split air" (his exact words). I guess I will know for sure in a few days. I will keep you all posted.

03-09-2008, 10:59 AM	#9 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	actually the diagnosis was "pipe spilt air". Not sure is my contact meant to type "Split" or "Spilt" (Spilled). What I make of this is that I maybe have a leak in a pipe somewhere.

03-11-2008, 08:53 AM	#10 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	update - I drove the vehicle home on Sunday night (I was away for the weekend). Every time I accelerated past 60km/h or so, the engine would start to struggle. Over 100km.h or so it seemed to settle down though. I drove it in to my mechanic on Monday morning with SES light still illuminated, stopped for coffee, then when I restarted the vehicle, presto, no light. I drove it to the garage and restarted it again and still no light. At least the fault codes are stored in thr ECU from when the light was on. My mechanic will be looking at it today and report back to me. I wish the light going out meant no more problem, but, from how the engine is running, I know there has to be. Most plausible problem is a vacuum leak (leak in a hose somewhere) which is robbing the engine of proper airflow and thus making it run rough. I hope its not more than that. A big repair bill will blow my budget right out of the water. I will let everyone know the outcome of my saga. fyi....I am getting my mechanic to do a full inspection so no little surprises pop up again....its around $100 but well worth it for my piece of mind. I guess this is the daily insanity of LR ownership.....sometimes I get mad at my truck, but then I look at it and think "its too damn sexy to stay mad at". If it werent as sexy, I think my BS limit would have already been reached.

03-12-2008, 06:02 PM	#11 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	update....turns out it was a multiple cylinder misfire....2,4, and 8 I believe. My mechanic thinks it is due to carbon buildup (I downgraded from 94 octane in the summer to 91 in the winter due to better fuel efficiency). I have another theory: A few weeks back I had my alternator rebuilt. Although, the shop put in a voltage regulator that fit my alternator, but was actually manufactured for a passat. In cold conditions, my battery light comes on upon startup, but I was told to just rev the engine and the spike in the RPM solves the problem (passat idles at a higher rpm than does the disco). I called atlantic british today and spoke to one of their reps.....he said given the cylinders that misfired, I may be looking at a coilpack issue. Would the incorrect calibration of the voltage regulator be causing one or both of my coilpacks to fail, which is, in turn, causing cylinder misfires? To think about it, from the very weekend I had my rebuilt alternator put in, I noticed that my engine was sputtering when I accelerated past 60km/h or so up to around 100-110, then it seems to run a bit smoother.....as I said. this is a total shot in the dark here....but if the coilpack is getting incorrect voltage, would this be the cause of my misfire? Please bear in mind that I have only limited knowledge on engines so I'm just going on my bit of research that I did.

03-12-2008, 06:04 PM	#12 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	oh...and the sqealing is most likely being caused by a bearing around the pulley my mechanic said....so its unrelated to the engine misfire

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03-13-2008, 07:33 AM	#13 (permalink)
nasa25 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 62 Gallery: 0	coilpacks checked out.....there's massive carbon builup in the engine which caused 2,4, and 8 to misfire. They did a cleaning of the engine (left the solution in overnight) and have advised me to only use sunoco 94 (I use 94 in the summer and shell 91 in the winter due to improved fuel efficiency). So my engine will be on a steady diet of 94 octane fuel and fuel injector cleaner and hopefully I can stave off the dreaded $2200 valve job.