Wires?

[malamute]

It has been a week since I changed out the wires, and all has been well up to now. The car runs fine if started cold and driven to a destination. If I stop anywhere in between the truck starts to misfire. After the truck cools off completely, then it runs fine.

The wire are 8mm mangacor and the plugs OEM champion.

Anybody else have this problem? Should I just throw some dielectric grease on it? Grab a file and a needlenose a do a little reshaping of the plug ends?

Matthew

[Disco Mike]

The plug and wires won't cause what you are describing.
How many miles on your truck?
There is nothing wrong with the plugs assuming you didn't try to change the gap. Even if they were tweaked, they would not cause the problem as you describe it.
Do you have a check engine light, if so what are the codes?
Mike

[malamute]

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

The plug and wires won't cause what you are describing.
How many miles on your truck?
There is nothing wrong with the plugs assuming you didn't try to change the gap. Even if they were tweaked, they would not cause the problem as you describe it.
Do you have a check engine light, if so what are the codes?
Mike

I have a flashing CEL right now. I don't feel comfortable driving it the 20 miles to the shop to have the codes read.

I know I should be able to plug in any OBDII scanner and get the codes, I even bought the model that Chris suggested. Nothing really works except for a testbook.

The only reason that I think its the wires is that they feel loose on the plugs. You can feel them go in an out on the plug indentation. The stock ones were on like a vice.

Matthew

[malamute]

Bought a new scanner! I just needed to spend more money. Such is the way of life.

Ok, here they are:

P0171 System too lean (bank 1)
P0174 System too lean (bank 2)
P0204 Injector Circuit Open - Cylinder 4
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio

Matthew

[auwesman]

you need a new MAF

[gragravar]

yep, sounds like a MAF issue. I'd try cleaning the one you have before replacing it, but odds are it will need to be replaced.

[Disco Mike]

You can not clean a Bosch MAF in order to clear some codes, it will just kill your MAF in the process. Call Tony, at Cerrones, 650-365-4145, he has about the best prices out there even after the huge price increase Rover just had.
As for the 204 code, that is the first injector code I have seen on a D2 in years. It won't go away with a new MAF like the rest of the codes and may require cleaning the connection and or replacingh that injector.
Let us know how it goes.
Mike

[malamute]

Well,

Ordered a good used set from the Rover Guy, and I'll get one next day air tomorrow. Got a question though, when I break the fuel line will it be a high-pressure ordeal? Or does the system bleed fuel pressure down if the ignition is off?

Matthew

[Rovin4life]

why the hell did you bother to order the injectors.

read what the code said, open circuit, not bad injector, measure the resistance to and from the injector to make sure the circuit is good before replacing the injector.

use a noid lite or a test lite. do a crank test and check to see if it lights up. if it does then then the injector is bad.

[Disco Mike]

Ditto,
You asked a question and then go against what is replied back to you, you just wasted alot of money on a set of used injectors that you didn't even need.
Mike

[Neo1975]

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

You can not clean a Bosch MAF in order to clear some codes, it will just kill your MAF in the process. Call Tony, at Cerrones, 650-365-4145, he has about the best prices out there even after the huge price increase Rover just had.
As for the 204 code, that is the first injector code I have seen on a D2 in years. It won't go away with a new MAF like the rest of the codes and may require cleaning the connection and or replacingh that injector.
Let us know how it goes.
Mike

Mike, is it bad to clean the MAF by spraying it with electrical parts cleaner and letting it evaporate off? Not trying to hijack the thread, but there is new questions raised as I read through this stuff. It is a whole new learning curve for me dealing with Land Rovers. No issues with my MAF, just trying to learn.

[auwesman]

I will tell you from experience, cleaning the MAF will only delay the inevitable. Just replace it and save the headache of clearing codes every other day.

[malamute]

Sorry,

I really have only today to work on this truck. I know some things:

I have a faulty MAF.
I have an injector that is not working or has a bad connection.

Knowing this:
I have to wait until Saturday to work on the truck. Test the connection and the injector. If I test and neither works, I need an injector. I would rather have the part on hand than wait 5 more days to get an injector.

I wish I was a professional mechanic with a killer set of tools, factory parts on hand, and training to back it up. Do you know how many Land Rovers I work on? One.

Mike I didn't go against your advice. You wrote:

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

As for the 204 code, that is the first injector code I have seen on a D2 in years. It won't go away with a new MAF like the rest of the codes and may require cleaning the connection and or replacingh that injector.
Let us know how it goes.

I take it that a 204 code is not common. The truck ran wonderfully after the wires and plugs for a week, which is a little long for it to be a wonky connection. Maybe I got a bad tank of gas and I got a piece a crap in the injector. I don't have a way of cleaning the darn thing.

Buying a 100 dollar set of injectors makes more sense than waiting until today to find out that the connection is fine, the injector is bad. I need the truck Monday.

Sorry to anger you Rovin4life, I am not a technician. I am just a guy who likes to work on his truck.

So am I going to sprayed breaking the fuel line?

Matthew

[malamute]

Well, it appears to have been a bad connection. Since I can now take the intake manifold off at a pace that would make any service manager proud, I just went in and did what Rovin4life said. They all looked fine, checked for bad circuits (as much as I could with my $12 voltmeter). Cleaned up the connections, and put everything back together. Came right to life and no more codes.

My MAF will come in later in the week, and with any luck my next purchase will be a Tom Woods front driveshaft, with a new rear coupling. Then a rear wheel bearing, then new stabilizer.....

And it looks like I have a short somewhere. Unless everybody's truck out there has a voltage drop between the engine and the battery terminal (negative wire pulled, no key in ignition).

Matthew