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Old 03-08-2012, 03:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Engine Belt Replacement

Getting ready to take Holiday and will drive my 2005 LR3 with 85k miles about 2500 miles in the process. I have heard that many parts stores do not carry the serpentine belts and so I want to buy a set. Can someone tell me how many belts make up a complete engine belt set so I don't get caught short in case I need one? I have maintained her regularly - any advice regarding other things to check before I depart?
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I highly doubt a belt failure is imminent. Items that might be worth replacing would be the brake light switch and bulbs.

Have you changed your transfer case oil, transmission fluid, and diff fluids?

Here are the items I would replace with the belts;

making an assumption this is a V8 4.4L
Items 1-4
2005 LAND ROVER LR3 Parts - Land Rover Parts Center - Call (800) 574-9217 for Genuine Land Rover Parts and Accessories
Items 1-4
2005 LAND ROVER LR3 Parts - Land Rover Parts Center - Call (800) 574-9217 for Genuine Land Rover Parts and Accessories

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2005 LAND ROVER LR3 Parts - Land Rover Parts Center - Call (800) 574-9217 for Genuine Land Rover Parts and Accessories
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default spare tail light bulbs

I certainly agree with getting and installing a new brake light switch before you depart; that assumes you do not already have a new one installed. I carry a number of genuine Land Rover front and rear signal/brake/tail light bulbs as the LR bulbs are slightly different than GM bulbs and the tail light circuit seems to beable to corrupt the whole vehicle - particularily the air suspension system.

Re belts, they are no fun to replace on the side of the road so I put new ones on awhile back and kept the ones I removed as the spares. That way I knew I had replacement belts that would fit if I needed them.

Be aware of the BIC pen fix re the air bleeder hose under the engine cover and if you have not ever replaced the engine thermostat, now is the time before you depart.

Don't let a bunch of error messages in the display bother you if some start to show up. The general rule is the more messages, the less serious the problem is, and fuel it up yourself. The gas cap is a bit different than other vehicles and it is best it be screwed back in properly. If not, the error messages will self clear in a day or two, but best not to have to even see them.

Take a hydraulic bottle jack and a piece of 2 x 6 for under the jack. You might want to practice removing a wheel if you have not had any. It is no fun. I have a baby bottle jack that I can slip under the front A arm and just lift the tyre above the pavement. The technique does not work so well for the rear, but for the front, a tyre removal is five minutes, for the rear, a half hour.

Make your wife carry the second set of keys in her purse so maybe you can get back into the 3 - it is no fun to break into. Also check now that the mechanical door UNlock works - now if the time to find it is frozen.

Pack the rear area on the basis that the rear hatch will not open and that you have to get at the stuff from the inside. In other words, no fixed cargo barriers that can only be removed from the hatch side.

Do all this and you are guaranteed to have no problems at all other than paying for fuel and buy the best gas you can find - no discount stuff when travelling.
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