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HELP!!! HDC, Special Programs, Transmission, Brake, and DSC Fault

253K views 64 replies 37 participants last post by  Sjohnson1980 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've had my LR3 since October 2009 but it's a 2006 and recently I've been having issues after starting the car.

Upon starting the following lights appear in the dash:
  • Low-range light-flashing green
  • DSC- solid amber
  • BRAKE- solid amber
  • With the messages:
  • SYSTEM FAULT SPECIAL PROGRAMS NOT AVAILABLE
  • HDC FAULT SYSTEM NOT AVAILABLE
  • SPECIAL PROGRAMS OFF
  • The range selector in the center flashes

A little background info on the problem: It first occurred after lowering my suspension with the engine off, which is a normal function. Then it happened on my way back from a river trip in Arizona at a gas station on a normal start-up. It has happened increasingly since the first occurrence about 3 months ago but goes away after restarting the car. I took it to the dealer to get new rotors and told them about the problem they suggested a faulty battery, but could not get the car to do it for them. I drove it home (1-hour drive), got out for 5 minutes, then got back in, started the car, and the lights came on again.

Feeling a little frustrated, I restarted, but the lights came on again. This was the first time it happened continuously. After about 8 restarts, I called LR Miramar and they "apologized for the inconvenience" and suggested I drive another 2 hours to drop it off again (no), so instead I had roadside assistance tow it back to them. I didn't want to drive a car with faulting brakes and transmission problems. I currently await news from them.

I can email pics and a video of the problem (can't post from my iPad)

UPDATE: Just got the car back from the dealership. It's getting towed back tomorrow. Their diagnostic tests found a good battery and no corrosion or open connections in the wiring. The suspension is now acting up and lowering to access height along with the SUSPENSION FAULT message. Also getting a TRANSMISSION FAULT message.

Lemon perhaps?
 
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#2 ·
Please let me know what you find out. I too have an 06 that I purchased in 09. We are having very similar issues. i am new to this site and I dont think I have configured my profile to notify me of a response. If you dont mind, email me direct at mburke3574@yahoo.com if LR is able to figure out your problem.

I posted my problems back on 7/12 and have recieved very little feedback.

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
With electrical gremlins, it is best to start your troubleshooting with the battery. Given that the LR3 is a highly electronic vehicle, lack of battery juice can cause all manner of error messages to appear. Based on the age of your vehicle, a battery change is about due if one has not already been done in the past couple of years.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Jkhazraei,
This sounds very like my problem with my transmission module. If you take the battery out behind there you will find a small plastic flap, this folds forward and behind that is the transmission module. If you see any water or corrosion around the multi-pin terminal block that's the problem.

I'm not sure if you've heard of Blackbox Solutions, they operate out of Cyprus, and they do a unit called a Faultmate MSV 2 which you plug into the D3 com port this helps you diagnose problems like this. If you replace the Tranny module you have to reset the hand brake clutches, this unit walks you through this process.

Other than this suggestion you might take the D3 to your local agent and ask them to check the condition of the multi-pin connections on the transmission module. This first happened to me after I gave the vehicle an engine bay wash, a definite lesson learned here.

I really panicked when I first turned the vehicle back on and all these lights came on and told me an awful lot of "stuff" suddenly stopped working.

Hope this helps.
 
#62 ·
hi

Jkhazraei,
This sounds very like my problem with my transmission module. If you take the battery out behind there you will find a small plastic flap, this folds forward and behind that is the transmission module. If you see any water or corrosion around the multi pin terminal block that's the problem. I'm not sure if you've heard of Blackbox Solutions, they operate out of Cyprus, they do a unit called a Faultmate MSV 2 which you plug into the D3 com port this helps you diagnose problems like this. If you replace the Tranny module you have to reset the hand brake clutches, this unit walks you through this process. Other than this suggestion you might take the D3 into your local agent and ask them to check the condition of the multi pin connections on the transmission module. This first happened to me after I gave the vehicle an engine bay wash, a definite lesson learnt here....... I'm really paniced when I first turned the vehicle back on and all these lights came on and told me an awful lot of "stuff" suddenly stopped working.
Hope this helps.
hi this happened to me after i took it in to be washed (range rover 2005), i cleared the faults, but the hi- lo range warning light is flashing could this be related to the transmission module
 
#5 ·
I sold my LR3, but the dealership did seem to solve the problem after the third week long visit a few months ago... If anyone has this problem in the future, you can PM me and I'll try to explain what the dealer did. It was a very long list of car parts I've never heard of, so I don't want to type it out right now.
 
#9 ·
I have had this problem going on for about a year now i have an 06 LR3 HSE and initially the dealer replaced the transfer case ecu, rear light bulbs, and said they repaired several corroded wires, this fixed the problem for several months then the issue came back, this time they replaced the brake switch, but said they couldn't pinpoint if it was the switch or the wires on the other side of the circuit. The issue occurs a lot less frequently but still does happen, i would be very interested to know what the ultimate solution for you was.
 
#6 ·
I have recently had the same sequence of problems. I have a 2008 lr3 se. I changed the battery out for a new one, that did NOT fix it. I then took it t my local mechanic (not LR) he cleared all the codes and one kept comming back, rear brake light fault. We then checked the fuse it had blown!, replaced it cleared the code and now good as new.
Charles.
 
#7 ·
Probably just a faulty brake light switch or bulb.

Review the link below.

Everything does not crap out all at once on any vehicle; even a Land Rover; it is just the computers reacting to some minor fault, most likely a faulty brake light switch or just a burned out or defective tail light bub. Did you recently install a non LR bulb?

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement

Also as above in other posts, a bad battery is another common problem - the 3 is the worlds first electric 4x4 - well it seems that way.
 
#8 ·
I had this same issue for several years before I was able to resolve it. The issue was a broken ground wire located behind the driver’s side lower trim panel (LHD). It was intermittent until the ground wire completely wore through.

You will need to remove the foot rest and bonnet release in order to remove the trim panel. There are three grounding lugs directly beside the area where the foot rest is located. The ground wire to one of these lugs was rubbed into. Presumably from rubbing or vibrating against the inner panel. I repaired the faulty section of wire and haven't received a single error in over a year.
 
#10 ·
Own a 2005 LR3. VERY EARLY American production. Same code problem periodically reappears, then seems to "self heal" only to appear later. Battery voltage was 12.94 volts this morning (used a VTVM meter). Am receiving other messages which come and go. Seems to be a slow progressive failure in the system. As I understand it, there are 33 computers throughout the vehicle and under the two dash boxes is a fuse panel with close to 200 fuses. So the problem could be anywhere ... a great mystery. Yet, when I had a leaky thermostat housing, the diagnostic software nailed it correctly with the appropriate message! Unfortunately, Land Rover Policy seems to be to update software ONLY FOR SPECIFIC FAILING MODULES. Instead of upgrading ALL software as the patches come out. This is a VERY SHABBY practice. When I am working on computer systems (all the time!) I ALWAYS install every patch. Maybe a joint bitch to Land Rover will get them to move off of their butts and upgrade software correctly. Who knows, most of these messages may disappear with the complete software upgrades.

Dealer did find a suspension fault and replace a few components in the air suspension system. I routinely use a fault detector plugged into the diagnostic port, but it seems to report mostly generic automotive faults, not the ones which flash on the dash. Land Rover seems reticent to release codes to the diagnostic instrument manufactures ... to bad, as it lessens our ability to see what is failing.
 
#13 ·
It would be notably important to describe every symptom, and every light, including the sequence when possible. I did not see a mention of suspension lowering which is typical of the brake light switch problem. One thing in my opinion is worth consideration for those of you reading but have not yet experience problems.

There are a number of problems which will eventually pop up, so rather than waiting until the most inopportune time for the failure, be a bit proactive now.

You will need to replace your brake light switch, so replace it now, keep the old one for a spare if you haven't experience any problems yet.

If you have ever replaced a tail light bulb, and did not use a genuine LR bulb, just go ahead now and replace all the bulbs with genuine LR bulbs. Any working bulbs you can keep as a spare. A blown brake light bulb will cause many of these symptoms. Unlike, say a Lexis, that puts a light on the dash to say a light bulb is out, LR practically disables the vehicle because of their engineering creativity or dry Brit sense of humor.

Check your battery, ground cable, terminal, cowl. Batteries have reported lasted 2-5 years, I am in the 2 year category. A battery not operating at the proper voltage causes a cascading effect of meaningless failures, glitches and error codes, none of which indicate a bad battery. Perhaps in future centuries, LR engineers will decide that, IF the battery voltage is lower than X at start, and Y and run time, and the following errors are tripped, light up the Battery light.

The negative terminal is prone to corrosion which also contributes to corroded the negative terminal as well. This should be checked, cleaned or replaced and sealed. You should also check the negative terminal connection where it bolts to the body.

I have read about this wire problem now several times, so it seems like it is time to tear it apart and try to prevent that. It would be great for someone who has done it to post up some pictures.

It would be best to be proactive in checking and maintaining these and many other items, instead of waiting for failures. It is pretty well established, that we will all eventually have the same failures, even the tailgate failure-- which I thought wouldn't happen to me, did at the worst possible time. It is much easier to order a few inexpensive parts and do some maintenance ahead of time.
 
#14 ·
"Defaults differentials to HDC system, DSC, suspensions"

(new member) I've noticed that looking threw the posts that we all had similar problems without the answers? I've had about everything come up on the on-board computer each time i start the RR 2006 v8 4.2 model, this started about a year ago..., the car had even gone into security mode stuck in 3rd gear restricting speed etc.... If you listen to the RR experts each garage have a different version one said i had to take the whole front apart to line up all the sensors, another said i had to change the gearbox etc... don't trust any of them specially in France... I forced the key a few times and it switched everything off deleting all the faults and back to normal... A garage in the UK say its the ignition & needs changing (bad contact) or can this come from the automatic gear leaver (sensor) etc...? recently the problem is back... Any ideas inbox me pls?:)
 
#15 ·
I've had about everything come up on the on-board computer each time i start the RR 2006 v8 4.2 model, this started about a year ago... "Defaults differentials to HDC system, DSC, suspensions", the car had even gone into security mode stuck in 3rd gear restricting speed etc.... If you listen to the RR experts each garage have a different version one said i had to take the whole front apart to line up all the sensors, another said i had to change the gearbox etc... don't trust any of them specially in France... I forced the key a few times and it switched everything off deleting all the faults and back to normal... A garage in the UK say its the ignition & needs changing (bad contact) or can this come from the automatic gear leaver (sensor) etc...? recently the problem is back... Any ideas? not in function
 
#18 ·
No, but your 3 does have air suspension.

. Lemon perhaps?
No, but you have purchased a vehicle that not only has air suspension, but has a downhill decent restraint function. More systems means more problems.

The good news is that the numerically more nasty fault messages you get at about the same time, the less serious the problem. Land Rover did not put a message in that says "broken wire" or something similar. As such, lacking in vocabulary, you get a string of other messages from a not very smart computer of which none define the problem, but do very much annoy oneself.

This is the reality of purchasing the worlds best 4x4 that in stock condition will go places no other stock 4x4 can go, be it the opera or Pikes Peak. That sort of performance and versatility comes at a price.

Check in both front wheel wells for frayed suspension wires - sometimes the air suspension cable harness to the height sensor comes loose from the frame and the tyres cut the cable harness during a turn when the tyre and the cable harness touch. If you are lucky, the fix while not necessarily cheap, is simple - and LR makes a repair kit for just such an eventuality.
 
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#21 ·
If you haven't resolved your issue with your DSC/ Brake/special programs not available,suspension and trans fault,starting with battery replacement was a good idea anyway because as we know when batteries get a little age on them it makes these trucks go nuts! Mostly as a result of sulfiding. Sulfiding causes the alternator to react as if it were charging a weak battery so if you were to check the amp output it would likely be quite high even though the voltage appears normal. This will cause various modules to freak out! Sounds like you may have had some moisture issues in the past. Try pulling up the right trim panel then exposing the wiring harness in the rocker panel valley beside the seat.You will likely have to unwrap the factory tape then thoroughly check for these silly little crimps that the factory uses to join wires together. They will likely be wrapped in blue tape. If you can easily pull the wires from the tape then you've likely found your problem. I think the wire colors are red with a yellow tracer. I maybe wrong on the color, but look at them closely and if these wires come apart easily you've probably found your problem! Hope this helps!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#22 ·
I was going to post this exact question today about the same errors.

When I was driving, the Christmas tree lights went on to the dash and I had:
Transmission Fault (Traction Reduced)
Parking Brake Fault
HDC Fault
Engine System Fault
Suspension Fault

AND the Speedometer wasn't working.

This is the first time I'm seeing someone mention this issue with the Speedometer.

Battery was showing 14.4v. Should I replace that, then try the brake light switch?
 
#23 ·
speedo puzzles me

Not many complain about the speedometer not working so that has me puzzled. I assume this means the dial does not move. Does the odometer work? It probably does but if not, then maybe there is something truly wrong and it is not just a glitch as I think the other faults are.

If I were to spend any money, I would change out the brake light switch first. It is easy to do and does not cost too much.

Re the battery, I would be putting it on a trickle charger every night for a week or so. Per the link below, I use a CTEK US3300 for that purpose.

Given the 14.4 volt number, (assume your engine was running), it sounds like your alternator is working OK but the battery may be low. This makes sense as the 3's charging system cannot ever charge the battery fully for some design reason.

VW had the same trouble with their Phaetons and still has with the Bentley; hence you get a "free" CTEK with every purchase of over a quarter million.

A fully charged battery and a new brake light switch can eliminate a lot of the false error messages. Also since there are so many, then most if not all are false. Even in a Land Rover every system does not break at the same time.

However when there is a real problem, there are usually two problems. Initially one is somehow masked and it takes a second one before the first one really becomes a problem. Hence you get one area of concern fixed and you still have problems showing so that can be very frustrating.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Traxide Dual Battery install in LHDrive
 
#25 ·
colder weather sets off the brake switch messages

I will have to do some research into where the speedometer gets it signals before I can comment; also I can guarantee it goes thru a lot of computers before it gets to the needle and computers are where the problems start from, well weak voltage usually along with funny input signals.

The reason I like the brake switch as a first guess is that even if it is not defective now, it will be in the future, hence replacing it is never a waste of money.

Also cold weather can set off the brake switch messages. For me, the false messages would show up in early winter when it turned cold.

Batteries are expensive and can still have lots of life in them so I do not like to just change them out without spending time trickle charging them up, or not. A big fast charge is just not the same.
 
#26 ·
its not the speedometer cable

About all I know for certain is that the speedometer problem is not the speedometer cable - to no ones surprise, there is none.

I presume you have not had the instrument panel out recently? I ask as one person is Africa had an engine shuts down for no reason problem, also the temperature gauge would show full hot sometimes.

It took months to figure out the solution - the connector into the back of the instrument panel was loose and this would shut the engine down as well as make the temperature gauge read oddly.

The reason is that the backup memory for the ECM that sits behind the interior fuse box resides on the instrument printed circuit board. This is also why you cannot just put in a new instrument PCB board - the new PCB has to be educated by the dealer if he know how, or back in the UK when you order it specific to your VIN.

Below is what I found re the speedometer and it is not much so it is best the problem be elsewhere.

The speedometer is driven by square wave signals derived from the wheel speed sensors and the ABS module.

The wheel speeds are measured by the wheel speed sensors reading the rotational speed of the wheels from toothed targets on the hubs. The wheel speeds are passed from the sensors to the ABS module in the form of pulsed signals. The ABS module converts these signals into a speed output on the high speed CAN to the instrument cluster.

Three versions of the speedometer display are used. The three versions show the speed in kilometres per hour, the speed in miles per hour as the main display and kilometres per hour as a secondary display and Canadian variants show the kilometres per hour as the main display and miles per hours as the secondary display.


The analogue instruments located in the instrument cluster are as follows:
�� Speedometer
�� Tachometer
�� Fuel level gauge
�� Engine coolant temperature gauge.

The speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge and engine temperature gauge are each driven by an electronic stepper motor. The characteristics of this type of motor produce damping of the pointer needle. All of the gauges return to their respective zero positions when the ignition is switched off.

In brief, computers tell the speedometer needle where to sit.

As to the brake light switch, I have never seen it affect the speedometer but the other stuff, yes. As tlt has said above, see if all your rear bulbs are working; did you recently replace a tail light bulb with a non genuine bulb - it does matter.

A burned out filament can short across to a good filament and that can cause the computers to think odd thoughts, particularily if it is a signal light filament. The second set of contacts in the brake light switch are always talking to the ABS unit as the contacts are normally closed when driving down the road.

The fix will be something relatively simple, figuring out the problem, well ....
 
#28 ·
Probably mismatched tire or wheel speed sensor. The steering calibration being way out of wack would also cause this, what happens on the 4x4 screen if you drive with that on. The shuddering is the brakes trying to compensate for perceived wheel slipping.
 
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