Just Bought an 05 lr3 with 65k...two days later it's on the hook!
Okay...had my 05 lr3 for a total of 2 days and it is on the hook going back to the stealer as I speak. It was making a driveline noise which after looking on this forum I'm guessing it is a diff problem....this morning....won't start. Turn the key and you get 1 click out of a relay...thats it. Not the battery, I assume the starter but the stealer had to tow it back to the shop and they can't look at it until Wed. because of the holiday...... Hope my LR experience gets better..... Am i correct in assuming the starter?
Another reason to always have a pre-inspection done before you buy a Rover, sorry about that.
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Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
Out of all the issues I have heard and experienced I have not seen the starter as the cause of the problem, however I have often seen the battery create issues for the truck. It can just be weak and cause all kinds of havoc with the electrical system. Make sure they test the battery before you go putting in a new starter. Also there is a software update that can be done that can affect the transmission shifting hard, you may want to ask the dealer about that too.
Keep us posted.
You have purchased the worlds only 3 ton All Wheel Drive race truck. New, at least up here, they run about $85,000. When used, well the cost of maintenance is still as if it is an $85,000 vehicle.
As a plus, your race truck in stock condition will go places no other 4x4 in stock condition can go - be it to the opera or up Pikes peak or whatever Jeep calls it. It is no big deal so LR does not even bother to mention it.
If you want to see Land Rover products in action on the big screen, the latest James Bond Skyfall is a 3 hour Land Rover ad. The bad guys are driving stolen police D3's and Defenders. Bond for the most part cruises about in Jag or Aston Martin cars.
Also if you are doing valve work on your 3, it is recommended that you stick with the Land Rover valves rather than the Jag or Aston Martin valves - it is easy to mix them up but the concern is sometime about more heavy duty than for the toys.
Most of the problems with the 3 are somehow electrical related. If you put a new battery in, do yourself a favor and install an Interstate MTP-H7 or H8. The fewer variables you introduce, the less likely you will be walking.
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2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide dual battery kit; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion fog light bulbs; Patch cellular antenna to underside of interior of glass roof; Air Suspension ECU Fuse 35P disconnect switch; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion control system; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Manual upper rear door cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented rotors.
2005 LR3/Disco3 SE 4.4 The Rhino
1999 LR Disco II SD 200,900 miles (Sold)
1991 Range Rover Classic (Sold) 'The Turtle'
1988 Range Rover Classic (Sold) 'The Rust Bucket'
Hope my LR Experience gets better..... Am I correct in assuming the starter?
You are living the life - the Land Rover Experience that they tout in their ads - like the rest of us, you just have to learn to enjoy the pain.
Actually it may be the starter. I never had a no start situation but I did have the clicking and the anticipation of walking for about a year before I finally gave up looking at everything else and put a new starter in.
Actually I think the problem was the starter solenoid but since it is mounted on the starter, well you may has well replace the whole unit and be done with it.
If your headlights still work as well as the radio and power windows etc, but still the clicking from down below on the right side, well maybe a new starter might be in order. As I said, it took me a year to figure that one out.
One problem with the 3 is that there are so many other variables that can lead to a no start or challenged engine start that the starter motor tends to be the last item to be considered.
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2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide dual battery kit; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion fog light bulbs; Patch cellular antenna to underside of interior of glass roof; Air Suspension ECU Fuse 35P disconnect switch; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion control system; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Manual upper rear door cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented rotors.
Not the battery or alternator...I checked the voltage on the battery...it was perfect. I had to humor the dealership and try and jump it....same thing. Battery is a 1 month old napa legend. It was intermittent the day before...it clicked on trying to start 3 times then started right up...no hesitation and then proceded to start fine all day...next morning..click...no amount of tries helped. put the multi meter on it and tried jumping...voltage was fine....
My situation sounds similar to yours. I was certain that the battery was good but I found that if I put my CTEK US3300 charger on the battery each night, that most often in the morning the starter turned over maybe after only after two or three clicks or more often, it turned over first attempt.
This was why I eventually decided the starter solenoid was the problem as it seemed to like a battery voltage closer to 14 volts than 12 volts to get a start, or more correctly, to get the starter to turnover rather than just click.
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2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide dual battery kit; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion fog light bulbs; Patch cellular antenna to underside of interior of glass roof; Air Suspension ECU Fuse 35P disconnect switch; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion control system; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Manual upper rear door cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented rotors.
The solenoid is bolted on top of the starter and is effectively part of the starter. LR does sell the solenoid separately but for all practical purposes, once you have the starter assembly out, you may as well replace the whole thing.
To answer the question, I do not know what was actually wrong but my guess was the contacts within the solenoid which can also be replaced separately are known points of failure.
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2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide dual battery kit; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion fog light bulbs; Patch cellular antenna to underside of interior of glass roof; Air Suspension ECU Fuse 35P disconnect switch; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion control system; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Manual upper rear door cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented rotors.
The solenoid is bolted on top of the starter and is effectively part of the starter. LR does sell the solenoid separately but for all practical purposes, once you have the starter assembly out, you may as well replace the whole thing.
To answer the question, I do not know what was actually wrong but my guess was the contacts within the solenoid which can also be replaced separately are known points of failure.
The guy at the stealer told me the same thing.....they went ahead and replaced the whole thing though just to make sure.....Bill showed the starter costing $550!....glad I didn't have to pay for it
There are so many other reasons that a 3 will not start that it is nice to know the solution was something simple. That is why it took me near a year to figure out my starting problem was merely the starter. I had just assumed it would be some other obscure item or a combination of obscure problems.
In researching the problem, I did discover that my overhead DVD setup was not exactly shutting down - that the display was remaining on even with the lid shut for about an hour or so after engine shutdown most times - odd stuff like that.
The cost of the LR starter is as usual, more than one would expect - maybe it also has some stardust within.
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2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide dual battery kit; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion fog light bulbs; Patch cellular antenna to underside of interior of glass roof; Air Suspension ECU Fuse 35P disconnect switch; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion control system; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Manual upper rear door cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented rotors.
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Just Bought an 05 lr3 with 65k...two days later it's on the hook!
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