LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
» Wheel & Tire Center

LandRoversOnly.com is the premier Land Rover Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-27-2011, 08:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 5
Gallery: 0
Default LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached

Land Rover LR3 (2005 Model Year) Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement

I wrote up a nice PDF with images inserted, but the site wouldn't let me upload it (file size issue). I attached the pics so that you can see what is described below. Good luck!

Below is a set of photos and instructions that I put together after doing this replacement. It’s a fairly straightforward project – and can be done within about 4 hours with a little help (yes, you need someone to help you with this). Some of the parts are heavy, and there is lots of opportunity to pinch your fingers, get dirt in your eye, have your car fall on you, etc… so use proper safety gear (glasses, gloves, jackstands, etc…) and the normal safety precautions, as you would any time you work on your car. And last but not least, I’m not a Land Rover tech, I’m just a meticulous guy that likes to work on cars and save a little cash in the process – if you do this repair and something goes wrong, you can rest assured that I claim no responsibility. With that in mind, have fun & put the money you save towards some nice off-road kit for your Rover!
Dealer Price for replacement: $400+
Dealer Parts Cost: $30 (est. – this was for the seal only).

Tools needed:
• 32mm Socket
• ½” Driver breaker bar (REQUIRED to loosen pinion nut!)
• 6” extension for E10 inverse torx socket
• Air ratchet (this helps immeasurably when removing drive shaft bolts)
• 3-Jaw Puller (must have for removing pinion drive fitting)
• E10 Inverse Torx Socket (also helps to have 5/16 or ¼” 12-point box-end wrench)
• 15mm Socket
• Tire Lug Wrench
• Floor Jack
• Ramps
• 5# hammer/mallet
• 2.5” ID / 3” OD cylinder for setting the new seal (you may be able to carefully use a block of wood…but having something this size will help quite a bit!)
• 8mm Allen Socket
• 75W90 Synthetic gear oil(1 quart)
How-to:

1. Get the truck in off-road mode and up on the ramps so you have some room to work…
2. Start by removing the shields under the engine – and then identify the 6 bolts where the front driveshaft attaches to the differential.
3. Using the torx bit, and the 6” extension, put your socket behind the cross-member in the frame and break each one loose. You can jack up the driver’s side of the truck (front and rear wheels up) and use your foot to rotate the tire, which in turn rotates the front drive shaft. This will help to position the nuts at the 6-o’clock position so they are easy to reach. You have to hold the socket securely on the bolt, as it tends to slip off easily. If you can’t get it loose, I had some luck using the box-end of a 12-point ¼ or 5/16 wrench (I can’t remember which one fit)…and a BFH. Give it a few sharp ‘raps’ and it will come loose. After the 6 bolts are removed, we can move onto getting the differential angled down for seal removal. This is REQUIRED, unfortunately, but don’t fret, it’s not that tough.
4. Remove the longitudinal cross-member under the differential. There are 4 bolts on it, 15mm I believe. It should come out very easily.
5. Next remove the bolt on the front of the differential…it is under the center of the engine, and the head of the bolt is on the passenger side of the truck. It’s about 6” long, FYI. I don’t have a pic of this one…sorry.
6. Finally, remove the 3 big bolts behind the driver’s side tire. You can reach them from below the truck or from the wheel-well. The wheel-well is a great access spot. You can see the three slotted holes in the pic below.
7.
8. Now that all of that is removed, you can see the differential sort of ‘hangs’ in the chassis. This is key, as you can now pry the differential forwards, and lift the driveshaft over the input. If the driveshaft is still stuck…give it a sharp blow with a hammer and it should break loose. DO NOT BEND THE SHEETMETAL COVER – ONLY HIT THE ‘RUSTY’ STEEL PART.

9. You are trying to get it to look like the pic below – notice the pinion shaft is below the cross-member of the frame, and the driveshaft is above it still. (in this pic I had already pulled the fixture on the end of the pinion shaft, I just wanted to use this pic to show the angle of the differential.
10.
11. Next up, pull the flange off of the pinion shaft. You will NEED a 3-jaw puller. They are cheap, and available at most auto-part stores…
12.
13. Crank it down, and hopefully this will happen!
14.
15. Clean up the parts, let the oil drain out, and get ready to put in your new seal… You can see where the seal rides in the pic below.
16.
17. Here you can see what I used to push in the new seal. Somehow I just happened to have this part laying on my bench. Lucky.



18. Hammer the new seal (carefully) into the differential housing. Make sure it is perfectly evenly seated all the way around.
19. I put some form-a-gasket on the inside of the flange to seal up the splines. It looked like the factory had done the same. I’m not sure if this is required, but I did not want any leaks. I then used a rubber mallet to seat the flange on the pinion again – at least until I could get the pinion nut started. I did not re-use the stamped-steel nut holder that was over the nut from the factory. I believe this was just to hold the nut in the part for easy assembly at the factory.
20. Reverse the disassembly instructions above. Make sure everything is TIGHT!
21. From the driver’s side wheel-well, pull out the small allen-plug from the side of the differential (8mm) and fill-to-level with 75W90 Synthetic gear oil.
22. Bolt your tire back on and you are finished!
Attached Thumbnails
LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached-dsc00587.jpg   LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached-dsc00591.jpg   LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached-dsc00595.jpg   LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached-dsc00597.jpg   LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached-dsc00586.jpg  

LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached-dsc00588.jpg   LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached-dsc00592.jpg   LR3 Front Differential Pinion Seal Replacement Instructions Attached-dsc00596.jpg  
tachyon is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-29-2011, 05:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
Former LR tech, Albany NY
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,438
Gallery: 0
Default

you forgot the the most crucial step that even the directions tell you.

count the threads before taking off the nut, that way when you tighten down the nut you won't over tighten it. plus its recommended you don't use air power to tighten up the nut because you will crush the collar and ruin the bearing.

then about a week later it will make noise on you.
__________________
I used to work on Rovers. Got a question just ask, need a Rover looked at, Albany, New York.
Rovin4life is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-01-2011, 09:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 5
Gallery: 0
Default

Interesting! So, are you saying there is no torque spec for the bolt? Seems odd you would count the threads, as on other (non LR) differentials that I've worked on, there was always just a simple torque spec.

Any chance you can PM me the instructions you are looking at?
tachyon is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-03-2011, 02:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
Former LR tech, Albany NY
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,438
Gallery: 0
Default

anything with a crush collar doesn't have torque specs they have bearing preload tolerances. There is a tool you can buy that measures the tolerance by spinning it around the nut but it won't fit in the space with the diff on so you have to count the threads.
__________________
I used to work on Rovers. Got a question just ask, need a Rover looked at, Albany, New York.
Rovin4life is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-04-2011, 07:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 5
Gallery: 0
Default

Interesting. Well, so far so good, I've put almost 1,000 miles on it so far, and no strange noises. I did notice when tightening it up that there was a distinct point where the nut just wouldn't go any further, like it hit a brick wall. That's where I stopped. Hopefully it works out. If not, I think you can buy the whole diff for $600-$700 online...doesn't look like it would be that hard to do a full swap.
tachyon is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-10-2011, 10:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 33
Gallery: 0
Default

Can you email me the PDF? I can host it for people to download

mack730 (at) gmail . c0m
__________________
08 LR3 HSE - HD Package. 245/75/17 KM2 and some other offroad goodies
Mack73 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-12-2011, 10:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 5
Gallery: 0
Default

So far...so good. Still no probs. I'll keep you all posted...
tachyon is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum > Land Rover Model Forums > Discovery 3 / LR3


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
pinion shaft seal disco2orlando Discovery Series II 2 08-03-2010 12:50 PM
Front Oil Seal Replacement invisiped General Land Rover Discussion 2 03-05-2010 09:07 PM
Diff Oil Pinion Seal LandyII Discovery Series II 11 02-28-2009 06:37 AM
Replacement rubber seal for the front drive shaft scubaman Discovery Series II 5 07-29-2008 08:50 AM
¿replaced oil seal for differential pinion? onecross Series Land Rovers 3 03-13-2007 06:36 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:33 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
All content is copyright © 2004-2008 www.landroversonly.com and its original authors. Land Rovers Only is in no way affiliated with Land Rover