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Old 10-11-2011, 11:05 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saaboteur View Post
My buddy, a Land Rover tech, did the install for me over the weekend. I was going to do it on my own and found this DIY, but when a dealer trained tech offers to do it for you, you don't mind!

But one thing I noted (I work on my other cars quite a bit) - instead of removing the compressor from its mounting bracket (by undoing the bolts with an allen key), remove the entire assembly from the car. There are three bolts that hold the bracket in place, two on the bottom, one up top that is hidden from view. The photo in the thread with the compressor removed shows the bolts I mean. If you use a 1/4" extension with a universal joint, you can get in there to undo the top one. Beats trying to get an allen key into position with the risk of rounding if the bolt is rusty.

Then you can just swap the compressors onto the bracket on the workbench. With the bracket removed, you can also see that the holes for the bottom two bolts are circular, but the upper one is elongated - aids in re-installation as then you don't have to be spot on with the top bolt. Suggestion is to loosely install the two bottom bolts, and then you should be able to get at the top one.

My buddy advised that the trick to doing this method is to leave the upper plastic cover in place, or to reinstall it first.

My symptoms, confirmed with the diagnostic computer my friend had, was that the compressor was quite noisy, and of course the suspension fault warning light came on with 'normal mode only' flashing on the screen.

With the new compressor in place, everything was good to go again.

More good info. Thanks. Just a survey question..Was your compressor still semi- functional (mostly at startup) or was it dead. And if it was still able to raise the vehicle before faulting, did your buddy have to decompress the system before disconnect. Thanks
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Last edited by bakjar; 10-11-2011 at 11:51 AM. Reason: Misspell
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:21 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I noticed in the LR service bulletin "When the new air compressor is installed the air suspension control
module software must be updated to the latest specification, using WDS disc 13 or later."I occasionally get the yellow alarm, and it seems to happen when I have a passenger
guess it is time for a replacement and was curious about the SB statement
Any thoughts ?
2005 LR 3 SE
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:39 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Default Suspension air hose melted?

I have my compressor almost all the way out. I just cant get the last rear air hose out. It's stuck.

I read on another blog that it might have gotten hot and melted in placce. What should I do,
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Old 11-19-2011, 11:20 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Great instructions.. thank you.

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement bracket for the pump; cracked mine lifting my LR3 in the wrong spot
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:24 AM   #35 (permalink)
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dealers have them, you have to put a new compressor on them. seen it alot from tire shops. For a while we made good money off of people not paying attention. Most of not paid attention.

But its the dealer for the bracket, sorry. once the bracket is broken the seal on the compressor is damaged as well.
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Old 11-25-2011, 03:25 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsoudah View Post
Great instructions.. thank you.

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement bracket for the pump; cracked mine lifting my LR3 in the wrong spot
I cracked my compressor bracket a couple of years ago. I was able to repair it by using JB Weld and clamping the bracket together to dry. It's held up well with none of the vibration and noise that existed when the bracket was cracked.
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:33 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Default Not as easy as this makes out....

Just finished following these instructions to replace my air compressor. Note that this thread understates some of the difficulties, and I thought I would provide some additional detail to help the next person. First off, tools:
-You will need a 10 mm socket, I would recommend a 1/4 in drive based on space available, but you can probably make a 3/8 in work, and an extension (a wobble head will work better, 6 in)
-10 mm wrench, prefably with a ratchet box on one end
-4mm hex bit for a screw driver
-1/4 in wrench (used to turn the hex bit on the second hex bolt--space is tight but you can hold it in place with a finger and reach up and turn it with the 1/4 wrench)
-A interior panel pry bar (mine was just the right size to push on the bases of the air lines making their removal much easier)
-Medium (blue) thread lock for locking the bolts back on

If your installation is like my LR3 there is no way to get the top accoustic cover off without removing the air compressor first, and even with two universals and several extensions there is no way to take off the upper mounting frame bolt like one poster suggested. And getting the top hex bolt off contecting the compressor to the frame was just too difficult (for my hands at least) with the accoustic box top in place. But the hex bolts holding the compressor on are all through rubber bushings. So I took out the bottom two hex bolts, and that gave the flexibility to move the compressor and gain sufficient access to remove the upper compressor frame bolt (the frame bolts need the thread lock when you reinstall them). I could then remove the compressor frame, take off the last upper hex bolt and bolt on the new compressor with that same hex bolt. Then bolt the frame back on the LR, followed by the second hex bolt (it is slow using the 4mm hex screw driver bit and 1/4 wrench, but it works well then the bottom hex bolt. You can then install the air lines and electric connectors.

And as an editorial, I can say that LR design engineers are incompetent. That is the worst installation design for a part that not only needs to be replaceable, but based on the posts seems to be a consumable item. But I guess its British and to be expected...
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:28 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Default Appreciate the instructions.

I appreciate your effort in providing those instructions. The "most English" bit about the compressor install/location is that the placement is such that most tyre repair shops will catch the edge of the plastic compressor case with their trolley jack or hoist.

The sharp cracking noise will not be the plastic breaking but the snapping of the aluminum compressor bracket hidden inside. At that point, your instructions become even more relevant.

The link below has a jpg showing a nice new bracket and a not so nice inside of my previous compressor.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:13 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Default Whole day nightmare.....

Compressor from Ebay: Easy
Remove Bottom Cover: Easy
Remove Air Lines: Impossible
One was physically ejected by over pressure prior to the repair leaving an unuseable end.
One was still melted into the pump.
One low pressure line (the "blue" connector) came out easily.

Removal required cutting the one melted line.

Remove Bottom Bolt #1: Easy
Remove Bottom Bolt #2: Easy - with an ratcheting offset screwdriver plus T-27
Remove Top Bolt: Impossible w/o removing top cover
Removing Top Cover: Very Very Difficult even with two bottom bolts out
Removing Top Bolt Take Two: made my own tiny/stubby hex wrench
(Once the top cover was removed, I should have removed the bracket per the suggestion of some other poster)

Once the old pump was on the bench:
1. broke existing connectors to remove piece of high pressure hose inside of the pump. Removed the copper fitting inside the high pressure hose that was inside of the pump.

Now the hacking begins:
1. Removed 2" of additional high pressure hose from each of the two feeding hoses on the car.
2. Inserted the copper fittings in the two pieces of "borrowed" hose. Inserted these in the new pump.
3. Reinstalled the new pump on the bracket
4. Purchased four "right size" copper splices for plastic high pressure hose, some high pressure hose from the hardware store, and some very small hose clamps.
5. Spliced the pump back into the system using the above.
6. Reinstalled the top cover...except it won't go no matter what. Removed the sound deadening from the top cover. Eventually struggled it back into place sans foam. Someday I will open it up and put the foam back in...
7. Hitch up electricals.
8. Reinstalled bottom cover.
9. Turned on the car, worked like a champ. Code cleared etc.
10. Sprayed splices with some undercoating so they are somewhat protected.

I recommend that you don't do the above. If you find that the you can't remove the air hoses (they are "fused"), then I would punt and bring your pump to the dealer and have them put it in. Even then, there is some magic to getting that top cover on / off which is key for getting the pump out.

Have fun...but not as much fun as I did.
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:12 AM   #40 (permalink)
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On my installation it cleared the fault code, no issue. But in doing some further testing I have found that my suspension won't go down using the switch (except twice, right after ignition turned on; but hasn't worked at all for a number of further tries, even after turning ignition off then on). Since I don't use the down position it isn't too much of an issue because when you go high it goes up, then it will go down automatically based on the speed sensor. So for off road not an issue. Anyone else had this. Maybe a dealer reset needed?
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:40 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I understand everyone's effort on dismounting the compressor from the bracket, but I find a lot easier to remove a compressor still attached to a aluminum bracket.You take the bracket out , then , you can remove a compressor out from the bracket clean the mountings, attach a new one and mount the bracket back to the chassis with the compressor already attached to the it.No need to struggle with a top plastic , sound deadening cover, nor awkward position if the top allan key bolt.Actually , in my case the top allen key turned out to be a star key( the new ones are all allen, whereas the old one were two 4 mm allen and one star.)
Yesterday i successfully renew a compressor with a overhaul kit (repair kit with bunch of springs and O -rings and few screws, provided by LR dealerPN JPO 500010).I also had a new dryer laying around for the past 6 months, so i changed that two.Now, regarding the air lines, some members reported them being melted, my were seized , especially intake and exhaust pipe connectors( two black ones on the side of the compressor). I sprayed them e few times with a penetrating oil , waited about a 20 minutes, total and they released with no problem .Dryer blue connector was OK and disengaged fine with just a little PUFF of air, no need to connect any computers to de pressurize the system at all.Compressor has a separate valve block , so when you remove the pipes , it does not release air from the entire system, not even the air tank, that why you hear only small puff , oposse to big hiss.
Taking the aluminum bracket off the chasis is a little hard, when it comes to top bolt, but at least is visible, with a flashlight,and you need 10 mm ratchet with a with swivable head and a little patience and no need to wrestle with a upper compressor cover.
When i tried to remove the compressor from the bracket itself( at the comfort of my house) ,. the long , star key screw snapped, although it was sprayed with a penetrating oil also.I said to myself , no biggy , i will re drill it and fabricate a different screw, but broke a few drill bits and and went sideways making the hole off center, bigger and protruding a screw base , making me miserable and bracket un usable, at least for me.Besides , bracket , alone was in pretty bad shape, it looked like it lost weight, oxidized too much. I Called dealer, regarding a bracket and they only one in stack, luckily i had a 20% off coupon., so it was't that bad.It is also a good idea to change a captive clips, that hold bracket screws to the chassis. they don,t have to be original , from dealer, you can pick them up from any hardware store, as they just M8 x1.25 clips and you need three of them . My were pretty corroded , so I figured , since i have a new bracket i might as well get a new clips.On the side note , bracket does not come with any screws, but my did somehow. i was told , to the surprise of a parts guy, that bracket must have been a special order and never picket up and one of the mechanics must have attached this particular screw, that i desperately need anyway, since it looked odd , anyway.
Overall with a little delay(bracket) I re attached compressor to the new holder and off I went with installing everything back to the chassis.You have just enough room to catch first thread with a top bolt, third hand helps , with a kipping the bracket with a compressor UP in place, as it is heavy.
After that everything else is just reverse order , fire up the car a, check for leaks and enjoy.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:48 AM   #42 (permalink)
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One quick addition to the installation, I did not applied a blue thread lock to the top compressor bracket, instead I applied a anti seize compound to prevent a future breaks . screw that keeps the buttom compressor cover , from the button also broke and i had to re drill it and install a different one.It use to be phillips screw, but now it comes as 10 mm hex, i guess LR realized the problem and update it.
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Old 12-18-2011, 03:58 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Just changed my pump out yesterday. It's critical that the top cover gets removed in order to allow access/clearance for removing the top bolt.

I also spent time trying to figure out which hex wrench to use on the second bolt only to later find that it's a torx!

This is the second pump that I've had in the car and I found that the previous mechanic only put in the two bottom screws of the bracket! Of course I realized this only after I had taken the top cover off. Popped off the air lines by pressing the metal flange against the housing while pulling on the line.

I put the new pump with minimal issues. It was kind of tight replacing the top bracket bolt with the top cover in place but i was able to finger it in and then tighten with a box end wrench.

By the way, you get the top cover off by muscling it. (I did the work at a military base hobby shop and the shop manager happened to be an ex land rover mechanic)

Once I got it all buttoned up and replaced the suspension relay, I turned on the car only to find that the pump was still not functioning! Arrrrrg!!!

Further inspection discovered a blown 60amp suspension fuse! I replaced thee fuse and the system worked likeca champ. So I'm thinking, $600 part and 3-4 hours of labor for what could have been a $4 fix. Bench tested the old pump and it was in fact shorted out and bad. Yeesh!

Yet another 4 hour job that will only take 30 minutes if I ever need to do it again. Definately a DIY job, Good luck!
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:26 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Default There is now a 70 amp relay upgrade also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lr3hooligan View Post
Further inspection discovered a blown 60 amp suspension fuse! I replaced thee fuse and the system worked liked a champ. So I'm thinking, $600 part and 3-4 hours of labour for what could have been a $4 fix. Bench tested the old pump and it was in fact shorted out and bad. Yeesh!
Yes, the 10E fuse remains 60 amp but LR has upgraded the R7 relay in the engine compartment fuse box to one now being rated at 70 amps. The part number is YWB500220.

Apparently the relay change is supposed to occur when a dealer replaces the compressor and then does the air compressor software update that reduces cut off pressure from about 240 psig down to around 210 psig.

I do not know if you took your compressor apart yet but when I did, I found that I had a broken con rod inside and that jambed the motor so to speak.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:10 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I have the same issues with my LR3. About 2 months ago the yellow "suspension fault normal height only" light came on, now the amber light is on and its stuck in access level. The compressor quit running all together. Is there anything additional that you have to do besides swap out compressors? Im trying to save some $$ and try to fix it myself. The above post sounds encouraging. Any thoughts?

Thanks, James
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