I just had 4 new tires put on my LR3 and I find it strange that both the front right & left wheel bearings are broken and need to be replaced. Could the shop who put on the new tires have done something to break them? I just find that a major coincidence. WE had no noise going into getting the new tires. The first sounds we noticed were the night we drove home from getting the tires replaced. The 2nd when we got it home from fixing the first wheel bearing... the noise was still there so the mechanic found that the other side was broken too! Help.
I'd just say bad luck...or good luck - depending on how you look at it. The bearings are well protected in the hub. You REALLY have to go out of your way to damage them by a tire shop. It involves removal of the rotors and multiple high torque bolts. A casual smack of a tool will have no effect on the bearings or housing. The good luck side is your brand new tires will wear appropriately. With the bad bearings, tire cupping can happen fast! Junk a set in 3k or less.
I have been reading on the various forums more and more about owners just out of the blue, (or more correctly, while on holiday), needing new front wheel bearings.
Fortunately, the setup is not too much different than what Ford uses so a Ford dealer can replace them without too much fuss.
There also does not seem to be any real warning either - all of a sudden you have a problem with a front wheel, noise and the like.
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2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide dual battery kit; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion fog light bulbs; Patch cellular antenna to underside of interior of glass roof; Air Suspension ECU Fuse 35P disconnect switch; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion control system; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Manual upper rear door cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented rotors.
actually the tire dealer should have properly looked at the vehicle for any issues. Most commonly places like Sears and goodyear only put on tires and ignore everything else unless you ask for it.
Usually when the vehicle gets really rusted out and the rotors get rusted on after smacking them off a few months down the road the wheel bearings go. Really common on hub and bearing assembly vehicles. Both D2,RRS,LR3 all have the issue.
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I used to work on Rovers. Got a question just ask, need a Rover looked at, Albany, New York.
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2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide dual battery kit; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion fog light bulbs; Patch cellular antenna to underside of interior of glass roof; Air Suspension ECU Fuse 35P disconnect switch; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion control system; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Manual upper rear door cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented rotors.
the only problem is the rust and whether or not you have air hammer. if you don't do yourself and your family a favour and invest in one. You will find jobs go quicker and you can fill up the vehicles tires every morning. Plus you can use alot more tools for a quicker time then if you don't.
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I used to work on Rovers. Got a question just ask, need a Rover looked at, Albany, New York.
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but the guide mentioned in the thread is about to be a life saver. I am gathering parts and tools for the trip to fix our LR3 on the edge of civilization.
Last weekend, Mrs Noname was driving home at 10 p.m., when she stopped halfway for a burger, when she realized, after 200 miles on the 75 mph interstate, that the wheel bearing was gone. Couldn't even drive across the road to the hotel to wait. Geico roadside assistance arranged to tow the LR3 (and brought her) back to Dallas, arriving at 4 a.m. Dealer took a day and a half, and charged $850 for one bearing.
Today, a week later, the other bearing has failed, and she is in a small town 400 miles from an LR dealer (and me.) Thanks to all of you for the help. I'll make the membership upgrade when the parts are on and things slow down.
One of the wheel bearings in my 07 (75K) failed without prior warning - gave me a heart attack almost as I thought from the clonking the driveshaft had imploded. When they got it on the ramp at my indie LR shop, the wobble on the wheel looked like the lug nuts had been loosened off (they hadn't).
Cost me about $350 to fix one side but decided as both wheels had the same age and given the "no-warning" rule, I had the other side done too. You can get the hubs themselves online for about $150 (Timken) and it's not a difficult job if you have big tools. When the first failed I was only a few hundred yards from home, I didn’t want to wait for the second to be a rainy Friday night in the middle of nowhere....
I had my right front bearing fail without warning in ht e middle of nowwhere. No warning grinding, nothing. Just sudden failure and 1-2" of wheel play.
That was 1 1/2 years ago at 140k kms. Now at 168k kms and I am thinking I should do the other side. Perhaps in the spring when it warms up.
Thanks for the thread revival, now I am getting worried!
I suppose you could order in the part so as to at least have it. Just having it with you in the truck should keep a failure at bay. I suppose I should be doing the same as I have yet to replace either side - lots of other front end bits, but not the wheel bearings - yet.
I note that your km and mine are near equal.
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2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide dual battery kit; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion fog light bulbs; Patch cellular antenna to underside of interior of glass roof; Air Suspension ECU Fuse 35P disconnect switch; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion control system; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Manual upper rear door cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented rotors.
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