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#2 (permalink) |
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4x4 Adventure Gear
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tappan, NY
Posts: 1,175
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Improves turning radius & improves stability (wider stance). Some folks don't like spacers because they say it puts a lot of strain on the bearings and axles. Just remember, not all spacers are the same, some are not hubcentric.
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John C 1996 DI - 3" AG lift 1995 DI - Scorpion Racing Extreme Kit 1991 RR - parting out (few parts left) 1990 Kawasaki KL650B Tengai 1989 Kawasaki KLR650 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Mean and Green
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 100
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Could someone please explain how they work exactly? Some appear to act as a sort of "washer", shortenning the effective length of the wheel studs, while others appear to have studs on them? Can someone ellaborate and possibly suggest a good set of spacers?
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#4 (permalink) | |
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4x4 Adventure Gear
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tappan, NY
Posts: 1,175
Gallery:
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Quote:
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John C 1996 DI - 3" AG lift 1995 DI - Scorpion Racing Extreme Kit 1991 RR - parting out (few parts left) 1990 Kawasaki KL650B Tengai 1989 Kawasaki KLR650 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 808
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Enter Geo!
Right I used to have a set of 30mm spacers, thats 30mm each side by the way! I bought them because at the time I was running Disco1 steel rims on Eva and becasue their offset is different to standard defender wheels the tyres rubbed and most of the wheel was inside the arch. So these pushed them out! Take look! Never had any problems with them, offroaded them with no worries and they made Eva turn on a dime!
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1992 K-reg 200TDI Defender 90 (Eva) MSN - Geobloke@hotmail.com There are a terrible lot of lies going around the world, and the worst of it is half of them are true.
Sir Winston Churchill |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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4x4 Adventure Gear
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tappan, NY
Posts: 1,175
Gallery:
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Quote:
The LR stock rims are hubcentric not lugcentric. Our vehicles are very heavy so it's best if the rims sit on the hub not the lugs. Although the lugs/studs on LR are much bigger than let's say a Jeep. From the Net: The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the hole in the back of the wheel that centers it over the mounting hub of the car. Factory wheels have a centerbore that matches exactly with the hub to reduce vibration by keeping the wheel centered. Wheels with the correct centerbore to the car they will be mounted on are known as hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels take the stress off the lug nuts, reducing the job of the lug nuts to holding the wheel to the car. Wheels that are not hubcentric are known as lugcentric, as the job of centering is done by the lug nuts assuming they are properly torqued down. Centerbore on aftermarket wheels must be greater than or equal to that of the car or the wheel will not physically mount to the car. Many aftermarket wheels come with hubcentric rings that lock into the back of the wheel to center it like a factory wheel, usually made of plastic.
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John C 1996 DI - 3" AG lift 1995 DI - Scorpion Racing Extreme Kit 1991 RR - parting out (few parts left) 1990 Kawasaki KL650B Tengai 1989 Kawasaki KLR650 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Crazy about Rovers and more...
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 2,889
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I see those cheap spacer kits for a "universal" fit, at like Autozone, or any other discount auto parts store, without studs built in, in many different sizes and widths.
I would imagine, that these are not "hubcentric."
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC |
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#9 (permalink) |
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The guy with the Banhammer
![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 2,366
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dont you guys forget about steel wheels now!
By buying steel wheels with larger backspacing you can get the offset wheel for the same price. John, how much are those 30mm spacers? I know the average price for steel wheels in rover bolt pattern (5x120mm) is about $75/wheel. If spacers cost as much or more....IMO minus well just buy all new wheels.....though I'm special.....I bust alloys. Not sure if you can tell the difference in these pics....the difference is close to 30mm....perhaps even a bit more. What you can see is the difference of depth between the alloys and steelies of where the bolts are...they are further back in the steel wheel: ![]() ![]()
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Josh Shapiro DII |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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The Best 4X4XFar
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: England, home of the Land Rover
Posts: 601
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Quote:
The only real bugger I have come across is wheel spacers are not sanctioned by the ARC (Association of Rover Clubs, now known as ALRC) so I can not enter any competition trials events with them on. To solve this issue I am going to get some wheels made up for my purpose that have 5" backspace clearance. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 173
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John C - what are the chances of finding adapters/spaceres for the LR? I have seen adapters that are essentially spacers that go from 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 and so on. How about a 5x6.5 to a 5x5.5 or even 6x5.5 so we can fit a more assorted range of wheels?
Robert |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Magicly Delicious
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,030
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Quote:
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Kevin Owning a Land Rover is like dating a super model. Sure she has expenive tastes, complains a lot, and requires constant attention... but damn... 1994 Discovery |
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