Brake and clutch bleed

[bamarover]

1971 Series IIA
Never bled a clutch before. Anything besides fill reservoir, pump, bleed until no air? Any checks that can be performed to know that clutch is properly bled?

I would assume the brakes bleed like the rest. I always forget the correct order to get the air out. Can someone remind me?
Planning on using Castrol silicone brake fluid, or should I stick with DOT 4? The master is empty, but not dry from the old fluid. The lines are new. Will what is left in the mc be a problem using silicone?
Thanks,
Greg

[TerryS]

Clutch is pretty easy, just fill up the reservoir and crack the bleed screw on the slave. Let it run; no pumping necessary. Ain't gravity wonderful?

On the brakes, I start with the closest to the MC and work my way to the furthest. I use a hand operated vacuum pump and draw the fuid ( and air) through to it. it's nice to have someone standing up top to keep the res. full.

Silicone is the only fluid that mixes with silicone, but a little of either in a system won't hurt much. Best to do a complete flush when you're bleeding it, keeping the vacuum on it it til you see clear fluid.

[dav1551]

First thing that comes to mind is a power bleeder.... Makes the task near a snap, a one man operation and is worth the expense in maintaining a series. In addition it allows the ability to check the system before filling with fluid.

On the clutch, for the most part is just a matter of adjusting the peddle travel at the cylinder as stated in shop manual,fill and bleed.

Can't in truth give an opinion on the silicon, have only used DOT 4.


Dave

[bamarover]

Looks like the consensus is a vacuum bleeder is a good thing to have. Any brands better than others before I plunk my hard earned down? I have seen Mighty Mite??? advertised.
Thanks for the tips,
Greg

[dav1551]

What I have been using is Motive products power bleeder..... It does not work off a vacuum, but pressurizes the system and maintains fluid in the reservoir. As I recall about $70

http://motiveproducts.com/index.html

It attaches to the reservoir and once set-up it's a matter of taking a clear plastic tube and a catch basin/bottle to the bleed screws to run the fluid through and evacuate the air.


Rovers North, Atlantic British and such should handle them..

Dave

[TerryS]

A power bleeder and a vacuum bleeder are not the same thing. The power bleeder pushes fluid through the system, and a vacuum bleeder pulls it through. Both accomplish the same thing. The power bleeder is great for flushing the brake lines with new fluid as they usually hold a gallon of fluid. The vacuum bleeder is a small, hand operated pump, with guage and varios fittings, and is usefull for other jobs, like checking advance units or other vacuum accuated things.

[pickuprover]

I always use Castrol LMA (low moisture absorption) Keeps the water out so you don't boil the fluid on the long braking...