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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 7
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I am about to remove the cylinder head on my 2.25. I have all of the bolts out and the rocker arm removed but I do not have the special tool for lifting the head especially with the manifolds still attached. My question is this: Can I safely lift the head and manifolds by putting screws with washers on them, in the front and back screw holes that hold the rocker arm on and them lift the head and manifolds with my overhead chain hoist?
It really doesn't matter if I damage that head as I have one to replace it with that has been reconditioned and re-valved but I would still like to remove it cleanly. I'm leaving the manifolds attached as I'm sure it will be much easier to remove them outside of the engine compartment. Thanks for any advice! Jack |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Series Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Lake district,UK
Posts: 532
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Remember the oil feed pipe attached to the rear drivers side of the head.
And the old skool way of loosening the head from the block is to screw 2 head bolts back in a couple of turns at each end then crank the engine over the compression will pop the head then it can be lifted clear by hand. ONz |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Profesional Hunter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: On the banks of the Great Grey-Green Greasy Limpopo River (Rudyard Kipling 1902)
Posts: 442
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I support onslow!!!
\ Dont even worry about trying any other way.
__________________
Moeras ’74 SIII 88” 345 000 Miles & still going strong! Reality - an illusion caused by the lack of alcohol in the blood. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Manchester
Posts: 18
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It won't lift straight if you lift from the rocker bolts and have the manifolds on.
Better to rope it round the manifolds as well, and tie it to a long piece of wood across the engine bay. When it is free, two people can lift it up and forwards. Don't try and lift it yourself - I did on Friday night and it is very heavy - I only just staggered round the front of the LR with it! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life.
Posts: 2,049
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Perhaps your's have been removed, but there are supposed to be lifting plates on the front and rear of the engine, and are bolted to the head, just for this purpose.
I agree, it's a whole lot easier to remove the head with manifold attached, as those 2 wing washers are a bitch to get at, at least the rear one is (on a LHD truck) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 7
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Thank you all for your suggestions. I lifted the head via the rocker bolts with a chain and a rope around the manifolds.
It did get stuck on something but don't know what and then it came right out via the chain hoist. Got a burnt valve in #3 so hope that was the reason for the poor compression in #3. All but one of the manifold bolts came out with no trouble except the center exhaust bolt. Of course I can't get the impact socket on it so I will let it soak in PB Blaster for a couple of days. All cylinder walls look good. Will clean up the block and put my re-conditioned head on and see what happens. Thanks again all! Jack |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Duncan, B.C. Canada.
Posts: 140
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It must be nice to have hoists and things. I have never realized I needed one for something as small as the head. We are talking about the 2.25 petrol, aren't we?
I lift mine off by hand. It is 45 (fourty-five) minutes to do the job from opening the hood (bonnet) to placing the removed head on the bench top. That was with hand tools. I didn't get air tools till afterwards. Probably quicker & easier with the power tools. GS |
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