Difficulty level of rebuilding 2.25 petrol - Land Rovers Only

Roverranger · 04-28-2008, 06:32 PM

Hello all, I am new to series Land Rovers and am looking to purchase a series III with a 2.25 that is toast. I will need to get ahold of a short block, long block or bare block and do a rebuild. I have some mechanical experience, taking out transmissions, engines, fixing clutches, brakes, etc on Jeeps, and minor work on other cars I've owned. I've never been into an engine or transmission. I usually try to do my own work with shop manuals and feel I could rebuild a series engine, with a good manual, as I've heard they are fairly simple and straightforward.

But, I wanted to run it by the experts

here, as I know many of you have done overhauls and see what you thought the difficulty level was. Parts seem readily available and not all that expensive for the innards, complete rebuilds I've seen for like 4500, so I'll definately be going with a rebuild.

Also, what have you found the best manual to be for engine overhauling and/or complete vehicle service?

Anyone done an engine conversion, maybe with a 258, V-6 from a Jeep? (it's what I'm familiar with, sorry!)

Thanks for any help, it is appreciated!!

Roverranger

zed · 04-28-2008, 11:39 PM

I haven't done it. But I can offer two things..
1: It does seem very straight forward and forgiving compared to some.
2: you never learn to do it till you do it.

pickuprover · 04-29-2008, 03:31 AM

As for the manuals... when I rebuilt mine, I used both the green bible and the Haynes manual in concert. The green bible missed (or was confusing at some points..) and the haynes clarified. When in doubt, use the green as truth. (Also don't forget there is a grub screw under the oil filter housing that does not appear in either book..)

Personally, I'd do have the machinist short block the engine for you (install the bearings and pistons, rear main seals...) and they it basically is a bolt-on excersize to put the rest on. The only real confusing part is the timing chain (but I would look into timing gears, realy wish i had of done that when I had it apart..). If you short block, then you know that the bearings and everything are right and in tolerances. The machinist also picked up that there were some issues with my cam and a couple of other parts. Priceless to have those double checked and made sure they are right.

Good luck anyway you go. Keep us posted.

antichrist · 04-29-2008, 06:59 AM

It's a simple engine and easy to rebuild.
I've used the factory manual with no issues.
The rear main seal shouldn't be trimmed off as close to the bearing cap as they imply.
Be sure to use assembly grease on all bearing surfaces when putting it all back together. For the rings I use a 50/50 mix of STP and 30w.
If you renew the oil pump gears you'll need a reamer, or have a machine shop do it for you.

jimfoo · 04-29-2008, 07:10 AM

And if the bolts for the roller guides aren't drilled for safety wire, USE LOCKTITE ON THEM! Don't ask me how I know.

ArmyRover · 04-29-2008, 07:53 AM

Also if your looking for a Rover club to wheel with check out Southern New Hampshire Land Rovers. We have monthly trail rides in the NH, MA and ME area. Great group of guys and gals. I know the one Series owner in the club would love to have another series around so we quit picking on him

Southern New Hampshire Land Rovers

antichrist · 04-29-2008, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimfoo

And if the bolts for the roller guides aren't drilled for safety wire, USE LOCKTITE ON THEM! Don't ask me how I know.

I've never seen them that weren't wired.

jimfoo · 04-29-2008, 04:01 PM

Well, mine weren't drilled or wired, until a short time after I rebuilt it. Then it got welded and sealed where the cam pushed the roller into the water jacket, drilled and wired.

pickuprover · 04-30-2008, 04:06 AM

Some of the new paterned parts have the bolts that are not drilled... namely "S**tpart" oooopsss I meant "britpart".... drill press and a fine drill bit takes care of that situation fairly quickly....

antichrist · 05-01-2008, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pickuprover

Some of the new paterned parts have the bolts that are not drilled... namely "S**tpart" oooopsss I meant "britpart".... drill press and a fine drill bit takes care of that situation fairly quickly....

Ah, ok, that makes sense. I meant OEM as I've never needed to replace the screws, just the washers. If I ordered some and they came without holes, I'd expect the vendor to take them back. That's like buying a new hub that's not drilled for the flange bolts.

jimfoo · 05-01-2008, 01:35 PM

Just to clear things up, my engine, a RN reman that had .060 pistons!, was assembled with undrilled bolts, so I just reused them when I re-ringed it.

04-28-2008, 06:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
Roverranger Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: New Hampton, NH Posts: 20 Gallery: 0	Difficulty level of rebuilding 2.25 petrol Hello all, I am new to series Land Rovers and am looking to purchase a series III with a 2.25 that is toast. I will need to get ahold of a short block, long block or bare block and do a rebuild. I have some mechanical experience, taking out transmissions, engines, fixing clutches, brakes, etc on Jeeps, and minor work on other cars I've owned. I've never been into an engine or transmission. I usually try to do my own work with shop manuals and feel I could rebuild a series engine, with a good manual, as I've heard they are fairly simple and straightforward. But, I wanted to run it by the experts here, as I know many of you have done overhauls and see what you thought the difficulty level was. Parts seem readily available and not all that expensive for the innards, complete rebuilds I've seen for like 4500, so I'll definately be going with a rebuild. Also, what have you found the best manual to be for engine overhauling and/or complete vehicle service? Anyone done an engine conversion, maybe with a 258, V-6 from a Jeep? (it's what I'm familiar with, sorry!) Thanks for any help, it is appreciated!! Roverranger __________________ '92 Rangie

04-28-2008, 11:39 PM	#2 (permalink)
zed Nut Futzer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 245 Gallery: 2	I haven't done it. But I can offer two things.. 1: It does seem very straight forward and forgiving compared to some. 2: you never learn to do it till you do it. __________________ "Its a beautiful thing the destruction of words" “Don’t you see that the whole aim of Newspeak is to narrow the range of thought? In the end we shall make thought crime literally impossible, because there will be no words in which to express it.” - Orwell: nineteen eighty-four, true for Oceania, true for today.

04-29-2008, 03:31 AM	#3 (permalink)
pickuprover Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,344 Gallery: 0	As for the manuals... when I rebuilt mine, I used both the green bible and the Haynes manual in concert. The green bible missed (or was confusing at some points..) and the haynes clarified. When in doubt, use the green as truth. (Also don't forget there is a grub screw under the oil filter housing that does not appear in either book..) Personally, I'd do have the machinist short block the engine for you (install the bearings and pistons, rear main seals...) and they it basically is a bolt-on excersize to put the rest on. The only real confusing part is the timing chain (but I would look into timing gears, realy wish i had of done that when I had it apart..). If you short block, then you know that the bearings and everything are right and in tolerances. The machinist also picked up that there were some issues with my cam and a couple of other parts. Priceless to have those double checked and made sure they are right. Good luck anyway you go. Keep us posted. __________________ Andrew Barr. 1972 Series III 109. "the Tin Turtle" "However, that was his ploy and I caved....totally caved... LOL!" Jellijo

04-29-2008, 06:59 AM	#4 (permalink)
antichrist Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: near Altanta Posts: 438 Gallery: 0	It's a simple engine and easy to rebuild. I've used the factory manual with no issues. The rear main seal shouldn't be trimmed off as close to the bearing cap as they imply. Be sure to use assembly grease on all bearing surfaces when putting it all back together. For the rings I use a 50/50 mix of STP and 30w. If you renew the oil pump gears you'll need a reamer, or have a machine shop do it for you. __________________ Tom Rowe Atlanta, GA Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. 62 88 reg 67 NADA x2 74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666) 95 D1 95 D90

04-29-2008, 07:10 AM	#5 (permalink)
jimfoo jimfoo Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 365 Gallery: 9	And if the bolts for the roller guides aren't drilled for safety wire, USE LOCKTITE ON THEM! Don't ask me how I know. __________________ Jim Hall “That man has no respect for his Rover and beats the hell out of it every opportunity he gets, taking the most difficult line over each and every obstacle.” Michael 1966 88" 1.9l VW TDI, GT1749V, IC

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04-29-2008, 07:53 AM	#6 (permalink)
ArmyRover Rebuilding Rover Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NH Posts: 1,693 Gallery: 0	Also if your looking for a Rover club to wheel with check out Southern New Hampshire Land Rovers. We have monthly trail rides in the NH, MA and ME area. Great group of guys and gals. I know the one Series owner in the club would love to have another series around so we quit picking on him Southern New Hampshire Land Rovers __________________ "Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater

04-29-2008, 04:01 PM	#8 (permalink)
jimfoo jimfoo Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 365 Gallery: 9	Well, mine weren't drilled or wired, until a short time after I rebuilt it. Then it got welded and sealed where the cam pushed the roller into the water jacket, drilled and wired. __________________ Jim Hall “That man has no respect for his Rover and beats the hell out of it every opportunity he gets, taking the most difficult line over each and every obstacle.” Michael 1966 88" 1.9l VW TDI, GT1749V, IC

04-30-2008, 04:06 AM	#9 (permalink)
pickuprover Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,344 Gallery: 0	Some of the new paterned parts have the bolts that are not drilled... namely "S**tpart" oooopsss I meant "britpart".... drill press and a fine drill bit takes care of that situation fairly quickly.... __________________ Andrew Barr. 1972 Series III 109. "the Tin Turtle" "However, that was his ploy and I caved....totally caved... LOL!" Jellijo

05-01-2008, 01:35 PM	#11 (permalink)
jimfoo jimfoo Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 365 Gallery: 9	Just to clear things up, my engine, a RN reman that had .060 pistons!, was assembled with undrilled bolts, so I just reused them when I re-ringed it. __________________ Jim Hall “That man has no respect for his Rover and beats the hell out of it every opportunity he gets, taking the most difficult line over each and every obstacle.” Michael 1966 88" 1.9l VW TDI, GT1749V, IC

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