frame swap

[WPGSERIES]

was wondering if anybody has had any experience with fitting a range rover frame to a 88" ser IIA. Are there any serious problems I could run into. I was going to do just the diffs and figured I may as well do the whole frame and get the coil sprig suspension at the same time.

[greenmeanie]

Originally Posted by WPGSERIES

was wondering if anybody has had any experience with fitting a range rover frame to a 88" ser IIA. Are there any serious problems I could run into. I was going to do just the diffs and figured I may as well do the whole frame and get the coil sprig suspension at the same time.

Now why would you want to go and ruin a perfectly good truck by doing that? Seriously, what do you want coils for? If it is more travel then there are easier ways to achieve that using leafs.

If you want some opinions on the pros and cons go over to Discoweb and IIRC Pirate 4X4 and search. Unless you really know what you're doind a lot of them turn out really nasty.

Having said that some people like KevinNY build a really nice one.

[WPGSERIES]

Just an idea I've been kicking around. Thought I could get better ride and v8 at the same time. Something I could take on the highway at decent speeds. Ive still got another IIa which I'm keeping completely stock apart from parabolics and wouldn't dream of messing with it.

[greenmeanie]

I am no purist so it is not one of these things that you must keep it stock at all costs. When it comes to running it on the freeway I think there are a lot of other things you can do to help the handling/comfort without doing a coil conversion.

I'm building the family truck right now for the desert soutwest. You pretty much have to drive 4 hours in any direction to get anywhere worth going. The build spec so far based on a NADA 109 6 cyl station wagon:
- Chevy 292 inline 6. If the truck had not come with this I would probably have gone Ford 300I6.
- Chevy HEI & TBI fuel inection run with a microsquirt.
- Ford NP435 gearbox mated to a series transfer case. Well it's not a Rover without the red and yellow knob.
- Scout II power steering.
- Disc brakes up front, OEM drums on the rear
- RM parabolic springs.
- Series Trek steering bars.
- Dual aircon
- Jeep seats front and rear with Tuffy center consoles.
A miriad of minor tweaks.

It's not too difficult to build and it addresses the main series complaints of power, heavy vague steering, stopping power and uncomfortable seats.

Personally I don't see the coilsd as much of an upgrade in this case but that's me.

Cheers
Gregor

[WPGSERIES]

I have a set of parabolics for my rebuild but i don't have it on the road yet so i don;t know how much better the ride is. I've heard they make quiet a difference. As i said it was just a thought but I probably wouldn't be able to bring my self to do it as the frame on it is in great shape It would seem like a waste to mess with it. Perhaps I will look into adding an overdrive

[greenmeanie]

I don't know what engine you are using to push it along.
Overdrives are great if you are running a stock engine. The Faireys tend to be noisey and need religious attention to oil levels. The Roverdrives are a great unit but tend to leak, are not cheap and can be difficult to obtain altough I believe production has restarted.

If you have more grunt you can either use 3.54 diffs but these affect low box too or use a high ratio ntransfer case. THis just replaces your stock unit high ration so you get more road friendly high ratios and maintain your low box.

Just some alternatives.

Gregor

[XtremeMarine]

Send a PM to Gordo, he has done this just recently. Or check his build book, and photo album out at Welcome to the Florida Land Rover Club . Or check in the hybrid section of this forum. Both Paul and Gordo have done this exact thing in the last couple of years.

[TerryS]

Rovers North had a stack of brand new SWB frames awhile back, and personally, I think a series truck on coils is a great offroader and civilzed on- roader. There is very little to do to make the frame usable. The replacement series crossmember is used in place of the rear RR crossmember.
I doubt I'd use a Rover V8 in a series truck, they're no great shakes, and it's a tight fit with major bulkhead mods. I'd do an Isuzu or Nissan diesel.

[WPGSERIES]

Thanks for the ideas. Will get my first series finished up and see how it rides with the parabolics and rebuilt engine then decide what to do. Havent had the drivable one over 40mph yet as its got a horrible rattle in third which gets worse in fourth. Don't think its the gears though, sounds like a loose piece of something hitting the bulkhead. Had it up on a hoist in fourth gear and of course it didn't do it. any ideas what it might be. Will have to get under there this weekend and start checking.

[gordo]

I love my hybrid. Something about building your own rig I guess, but its very time consuming. For me I already had a built rangie that was rusting apart so a 500 dollar series body seemed like a good option. In the end, I couldnt be any happier with it, but it was ALOT of work. The frame part isnt too bad, alot of my time went into the cage/custom sliders, and other fab work. If you are going V8, It is ALOT easier to run a 90 hood/breakfast that way you can leave the engine/trans/drivetrain right in place and there are no mods to the bulkhead, but you do have to cut the inner fenders for the shock turrets. Other parts you will need are, a rear crossmember, outriggers, a new gas tank to modify to clear the radius arm bracket, a 90 steering column and wheel, a custom lower steering column (flaming river), a 90 or SIII brake booster, a 90 rad or custom rad, a shortened rear d/s, and Im sure Im forgeting a host of other things. Also remember the axles are wider so you may need flares or skinny tires.
Is it worth it...to me it was. I love my hybrid, carbed no electronics, good power, auto, disc brakes, etc, but if I already owned a series in solid shape, I wouldnt have done it. I just took two junkers to make one hell of a trail rig.
PS: Heres a direct link to my photo album. Florida Land Rover Club - gordos hybrid project

one more thing to consider, the RRC diffs are 3.54 gearing vs 4.75. Also you can cut the coil suspension mounts off the frame and weld to your series frame. Not sure its any easier and my series frame was beyond repair but its been done before. Still unless you are looking at a chassis swap anyway, I dont think its worth it. Gordo

Gordo