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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 20
Gallery:
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This is a first for me... went to head off in my series.. got in.. started up.. go to put it in gear and the gear shift lever breaks off in my hand!
It broke right at the base. My obvious question, has this happened to anyone else? How difficult is it to change? I think my good friends at wise owl should have the part, just looking for and tips anyone my have? Thanks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 222
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Hi,
I've had this happen to me once, and it seems to happen quite a lot on old Series vehicles- I suppose the lever must get metal fatigue at the point where it 'kinks' to join the gearbox. Anyway, if you can get a complete gear lever assembly, with the ball joint, bracket and fixings, it's a very simply job to replace. Just take out the transmission tunnel (which requires you to take out the two floor panels as well- they all just unbolt), then unbolt the old lever and bolt on the new one. Jack
__________________
1990 Ninety County Station Wagon Diesel Turbo http://members.lycos.co.uk/threelandrovers |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
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In the seventies I used to drive series landies (mostly 2a lwb) whilst in the Police in Rhodesia (Zimbabwe). This used to happen fairly regularly especially because the vehicles belonged to the Government and were driven like they belonged to the government. The guys used to change too harshly and as mentioned above probably caused some metal fatigue.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,364
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well the vise grips have been know to change gears on many a series. Instead of buying a new one, find a local welder and get him to just reweld it. I have done that to mine. Not a big deal to change, as was mentioned above. Just unbolt, and reinsert new one, or the welded one.
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Andrew Barr. 1972 Series III 109. "the Tin Turtle" "However, that was his ploy and I caved....totally caved... LOL!" Jellijo
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Put a jeep-had on you!!
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Clemson, SC
Posts: 187
Gallery:
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Quote:
I eventually replaced the entire shifter (broke something else). Before I installed it, I welded the shit out of the same area it broke at. I recommend you do the same. Go ahead and weld it so it won't break again. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Duncan, B.C. Canada.
Posts: 145
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iF THE BASE OF YOUR GEAR SHIFT HASN'T GOT A BEAD OF WELD AROUND IT YET, BETTER DO IT BEFORE IT BREAKS. i'VE HAD SEVERAL BREAK. sEEMS THEY ARE MADE WITH AN UNDERCUT FROM BOTH SIDES. (oPPS, i'M YELLING! Found the cap lock button now.) They can be welded in place without removing the tunnel, just make sure there isn't too much bead so it doesn't bind when going in to reverse or fourth. My last one, I welded before I ever put it on.
GS |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 20
Gallery:
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New gear shift installed! The new one is much nicer to shift with. It has a nylon bushing at the end instead of the old roung metal knob. Much smoother shifting!
Thanks for all the suggestions! |
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