Help - Rear Axle Seal?

[brntrout]

I am a new Series III owner with limited experience working on autos. I just got back from the local car repair shop where I was attempting to get it inspected for the state (NH). The guy says to me, "I have to fail you cause your rear axle seal on the drivers side is blown, and you have a bunch of grease in the drum".

My question to all of you is, how hard is this to repair, is it something I could do? on a scale of 1-10 how would you rank it? What I lack in experience I make up for in enthusiasm. I bought the car for this type of thing, learning to work on it.

I appreciate your feedback.

Kyle

[Muddy Oval]

It's not a hard job at all- I'd do the inner bearing oil seal, then new lockers, felt washer and flange gasket- All in all, only a few bucks and maybe a couple hours of exploring.

[CanuckIIA]

Well Kyle, if I can do it, you can do it. I know exactly what you mean by buying a Rover to work on it, (actually I work on mine more than I drive it! )

I did my front hub last August and it was more difficult than a rear because I had to remove the locking front hub.

You'll need a jack, axle stand, set of standard wrenches as well as a hub spanner to take off the hub retaining nuts.

You will need to buy a hub spanner and a hub seal kit as well as some good hub grease. Make sure you have a manual. If you don't, let me know but you should buy a good one, (people alwasy mention the Green Bible), if you do want to learn how to rebuild your Landy. You MAY need to buy a new drum if you break your's removing it, you'll need some new brake shoes because your's are soaked with grease and you should inspect the brake springs and brake wheel slave cylinder when you're in there. Kind of a one thing leads to another thing.

On mine, I broke my drum so I had to replace it and I also had to hone my front wheel cylinders because they where a little rusty and leaking. My brake flex line was cracked so I replaced it and then I needed to redo my brake pipes because they cracked with I replaced the flex line.

Stuff can happen and don't be afraid to walk away from it for a day if you do.
If you get stuck post a picture and ask a question and let us know how it's going. We're here to help. With a little bit of work, you can see in the attached pic what a newbie can do.

I'd say it's about a 6 out of 10.

[Greg S]

Check the brass axle-housing breather to make sure it isn't plugged. If it is plugged you will blow a seal again real soon. It is simply a ball bearing inside a housing. It should rattle around in there when you remove the breather and shake it. If not, soak it in a solvent and blow it out with compressed air till the ball rattles easily.

Your brake drum will be saturated with oil as it is cast iron which is porous, there is no satisfactory way of properly removing the oil so it is recommended to replace the drum. The shoes can't be cleaned either so a new set is in order. The shoes come as an axle set so you may as well do the brakes on the other side too.

The seal rides on a "distance peice" which can get worn and grooved. If it is, there is no way to get a new seal to seal. It will need to be replaced too. Rumour has it that these are hard to replace. Hogwash! The instructions in all the manuals say to use a cold chisel to take off the old one. It works as slick as you could imagine. Just don't damage the axle stub the distance peice is on. The new distance peice goes on the meticulously cleaned stub after heating the distance peice in the wifes oven. Stick it in there at 450F for 20 minutes or so. This will expand it to slide it over the stub. When it cools it shrinks into place. NOTE WELL. If it cools between the oven and where it belongs, it won't go on. Use "hot gloves", be quick, and have a handy peice of plastic pipe the right size on hand to drift the distance peice "home". (I don't do it this way. I do it the "WRONG" way. I put the distance peice on a brick beside the axle and gently heat it evenly with a torch till it just starts to change colour (brown). By this time it is so large that when I put in into postion with waterpump pliers, I have to hold it till it cools enough to stay stay there on it's own. I think next time I'll do it in the oven like so many recommend.

A Haynes manual or other type is a wonderful thing to own and will lead you through all these things step by step.

Good luck
Greg S

[pickuprover]

It is better to replace the shoes, however if it seems to be an ongoing issue and you want to get the oil of the old ones, there is a way... dunk the old shoes in a bucket of gas (a quick in and out) then set them on a concrete block and ignite (and yes make sure you have your fire extichuiser handy, follow all gas handling rules) it will burn the oil out, a quick sanding and away you go.... as I say it is an alternate to buying new until you are sure that the new seals are holding..

[bamarover]

You can do it. We also have limited experience (wouldn't touch the inside of engine or transmission or differential, but tore right into those brakes, axles and swivel balls). Take your time and get a good manual. The Haynes Restoration Manual for series truck has been a big help to us (available where the green bible is, usually).
Anyway, after you pull the seal and clean the seat area, you can use the old seal to tap it back in or a bearing or race that is similar in size. Whatever you do, don't tap it directly with a hammer. You will ruin the seal. Don't ask me how I know.
Greg

[FrankS]

Originally Posted by brntrout

I am a new Series III owner with limited experience working on autos. I just got back from the local car repair shop where I was attempting to get it inspected for the state (NH). The guy says to me, "I have to fail you cause your rear axle seal on the drivers side is blown, and you have a bunch of grease in the drum".

My question to all of you is, how hard is this to repair, is it something I could do? on a scale of 1-10 how would you rank it? What I lack in experience I make up for in enthusiasm. I bought the car for this type of thing, learning to work on it.

I appreciate your feedback.

Kyle

Kyle, go here http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/cars.htm and scroll down to SeriesIII section and download al 7 pdf. files and you will have the Complete L/R seriesIII workshop manual, the handiest tool anyone can own. All you need to do is print out the page/s you need or study them on your computer and follow the steps, even L/R mechanics use them, Regards Frank.