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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1
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Hi all,
I accidentally became a Land Rover owner; a neighbor asked where I got my Brit parts from, and I told him I wholesale them. He had a 88 Series IIA that he wanted to sell. My son has wanted one and this was a deal so I bought it. Cassady wants one with the longer wheel base though. This one has 24k miles on it and has been stored in a cow barn for most of it's life. Runs great, but before I sell it, I'd like to change the oil filter and don't know which cartridge to get; is it the same as a MGA? MGB? TR-3? 20/50 oil in the engine? Other fluid weights would also be helpful. What is the white buttoned rod on the trans tunnel? I'm guessing the red one is 4x4. TIA |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,366
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The oil fitler is available through any of the Rover parts places... or you can cross reference to this part number... Fram CH-834PL1 (assuming it is the short, not long filter...) Most of the other oil is a 90W (including tranny, transfercase, swivel balls, and diffs... but is is speced at gl-4 not gl-5...) I use 80w90 castrol hypo-c. I assume that the white button is the 4 wheel (usually yellow, but has been known to fade to white....) It sticks vertiacallly out of the tunnel between the gear shift and the red lever. It has a spring around the shaft that goes from tunnel to the the knob. Pushing it down engages 4 wheel drive. To dissengage, pull red lever back (4 wheel low range) and the button should pop back up, then push the red lever back forward (2 wheel high range...) You can download a manual and parts list from www.tukojack.com
__________________
Andrew Barr. 1972 Series III 109. "the Tin Turtle" "However, that was his ploy and I caved....totally caved... LOL!" Jellijo
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Series Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Lake district,UK
Posts: 532
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Quote:
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Current fleet 86 90 V8 in bits 86 RR classic Under repair 94 Disco TDI 3dr ex-police 256k and still going 80" coil sprung V8 auto Trialer in progress 71 2a Trialer V8 auto,parabolics,6" shackles,power steering awesome machine Stuff I have had at one time or another 76 S3 LWB 65 2a ex mil swb 71 2a swb safari 67 2a 1 tonne TACR 57 S1 V8 SWB 81 S3 SWB diesel 82 s3 SWB diesel 82 RR 2 dr perkins diesel 83 RR 4dr V8 84 RR 4dr V8 LPG 83 RR 4dr V8 LPG "in vogue" 88 RR gm 6.2 V8 Diesel 89 RR 3.5 mazda TDi 75 S3 LWB stationwagon 75 S3 2.6 LWB 86 110 2.5D 91 disco V8 91 disco TDi 89 disco V8 81 RR isuzu 2.8 TD |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 35
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I don't think the cheapest oil is the way to go- at least here in the States. You can get some pretty dreadful non API graded non detergent crap. It might be cheap but it would be penny wise and pound foolish- especially considering the cost of spares here in the US... True the engines were not designed to use modern oils but it doesn't mean they don't benefit from that use. I think I'd advocate a middling oil myself- one that at least receives a decent API rating, perhaps even a decent diesel oil like Shell Rotella 15w-40- They are reasonably cheap and still offer protection exceeding that of the 1960's oils. You can get a decent oil and still pay less thatn $20 US for the supplies- perhaps things are different int he UK? Using a high $ synthetic might be wasting $- that I'd agree with especially if your engine is prone to leaks. |
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