Leafspring suspension bushes

[rupertmja]

First post and new to Land Rovers.; just got my first one.

It's a mid 1970s Series mixture of IIa and III and I want to replace the leafspring suspension bushes. I went to a local supplier and he tried to sell me some bushes that were really soft, I mean, you could squish them with your fingers they were so soft. Surely that can't be right.

Also, any methods to get the old ones out would be highly appreciated? What dod you do? Press them? Burn them? What? Any special tricks? Never worked on leaf springs before.

Cheers,

Rupert

[slouzon]

Here's how I just did mine.

Of course with everything raised on jack stands and the wheels removed.
Work safe dead people don't drive Land Rovers.
You maybe need to unbolt you axle travel limting straps.
And a jack under the leaf spring your working on to lower it after you remove the shackle bolts.

Removal...
Frame bushings..
Use a piece of tubing or a deep well socket that is about the same size as the bushings inside tubing. Run a long bolt thru the socket, bushing and another bigger I.D. piece of tubing or socket, have thick washers on both ends. Screw it together and this will press the inside out with having to burn them out. Smells better!
Now with the inner piece removed comes the fun part. I took a hack saw and put the blade the bushing remaining outside sleeve that was still in the frame. Installed the blade back on the saw and carefully cut thru the sleeve in 2 places. At about the 5 and 7 o'clock positions, careful not to cut into the frame. Than used a chisel to drive (more like roll over) this section out and than was able to knock out the outer sleeve.
The springs..
They pressed out pretty easy no cutting required using the same set up as for the frame bushing inner tube except that the pressing tube or socket needs to be just under the diameter of the outside diameter of the new bushing. To small and it will slip off to big and it will get stuck in the spring.
I used sockets for all my pressing as they are hard and less likely to deform while pressing these bushings out.

Installing new...
Frame bushings....get ready to do a lot of swearing if you haven't started already!
I used a half round file to make sure there were no bumps and nicks in the frame holes. I felt with my finger for any high spots and filed them down, check the edge of the hole on the side you are pressing them in from.
I used some "Anti-seize" in the holes and on the outside of the bushings.

Now using the similar method as the removal but with a longer grade 8 bolt and only very thick washers on the both sides. (I bought a couple of different length bolts from the local hardware. Try and get fine thread as they are stronger and should be easier to turn the nut. I could only get coarse thread 1/2 -13 at the time when I did mine and it took a lot of sweat to draw them in.)
Now I ran the bolt thru the new bushing and the frame hole with the heavy washers (hardened washers if you can get them) on both sides. Greased up the thread on the bolt and start wrenching, making sure it starts in straight. Keep wrenching and wrenching and more wrenching.
You may have to use of sockets for spacers on your bolts if you run out of thread or switch to a shorter bolt. Be careful the nut is going to get very hot!!
At the very end of this pressing (during your last spacer add or bolt change) you are going to need a washer with a big enough hole in it that the bushing can be pressed flush with the edge of the frame hole. (The inner tube is a little longer than the outer.) Than finish drawing it home.
Spring bushing.....
Same method as above just a whole lot easier.

I have only done my rears so far.
Been afraid to start the front as the frame bushings are longer than the rears and there is not as much room to work.
If anyone has an easier way, besides paying someone else to do it.
Let me know before I tackle the fronts.

Doing your own work is half the fun of owning a Series rig!

.

[rupertmja]

Thanks forthe detail explanation. Somehow, that's more or less what I thought it'd be. I just hoped that there might have been an easier way.

[pickuprover]

The easiest way is to take it to a spring shop.... but then you miss the cursing and swearing and busted knickles...

[slouzon]

Originally Posted by pickuprover

The easiest way is to take it to a spring shop.... but then you miss the cursing and swearing and busted knickles...

And you surely don't want to miss that!!!

[rupertmja]

The steering has a fair bit of play in it. I know there is an adjuster half way down and will have a go at it soon. I think my leafsprings rubbers are on their way out though as the wholevehicle seems to 'rock-a-little' when turning etc. Am I on the right track chasing the leafspring bushes do you think?

[jimfoo]

Originally Posted by slouzon

Here's how I just did mine.

Of course with everything raised on jack stands and the wheels removed.
Work safe dead people don't drive Land Rovers.
You maybe need to unbolt you axle travel limting straps.
And a jack under the leaf spring your working on to lower it after you remove the shackle bolts.

Removal...
Frame bushings..
Use a piece of tubing or a deep well socket that is about the same size as the bushings inside tubing. Run a long bolt thru the socket, bushing and another bigger I.D. piece of tubing or socket, have thick washers on both ends. Screw it together and this will press the inside out with having to burn them out. Smells better!
Now with the inner piece removed comes the fun part. I took a hack saw and put the blade the bushing remaining outside sleeve that was still in the frame. Installed the blade back on the saw and carefully cut thru the sleeve in 2 places. At about the 5 and 7 o'clock positions, careful not to cut into the frame. Than used a chisel to drive (more like roll over) this section out and than was able to knock out the outer sleeve.

.

Only minor differences in the way I do it. I use a bigger washer and pull the rubber out at the same time as the inner sleeve. Actually it may be a socket I use. I use an impact wrench to turn the bolt to speed things up. Oiling the threads helps too. I use a sawzall on the outer sleeve as most blades will fit, and this also drastically reduces the time and effort needed. If the frame is off the vehicle, or you have it REALLY high in the air and have a helper, a hi-lift can be used to remove and insert new bushings.

[slouzon]

The socket I used was big enough to push the rubber out as well.