Project: Wilks

[Jupiter Rover]

oh nice! are you ever coming back down to south florida? lol. im transferring back home to FAU. so i will be in corbett more often, two of my friends just got jeeps with lifts and mud terrains. im excited.

[01001010]

To live, not in the near future. To visit...Oh YEss!

Ah, I miss Corbett =(

[XtremeMarine]

Looking great little brother. Happy to see it steadily moving forward. I just ordered a set of 5 235/85/16 Yokohama Geolandar A/T II's for the SIII 5 door SW. So you know, even if it's going to be a daily driver, I'm going to have to take it to Corbett at least once to let those tires taste mud, lol!

[01001010]

So another fellow enthusiast - a very knowledgable one, at that - has pointed out that my frame MAY be from a 109' 3-door with the body of a SW. The Gas tank on the 109's should have been at the rear and the cross members are a little different. I was also trying to look for identification numbers on the frame itself and could not find any at the front horns.

[01001010]

I've spent the evening reading on the axle options and I'm really liking the simplicity of the Sals swap.

I've been looking through the different boards (RN, Dweeb, ExPo, etc. etc.) And either I haven't looked right, skimmed right through it, or it just hasn't appeared...

What do I do for brakes on the Sals? To I keep the Drums? Do I have to go to Disc?

What do I do?

[XtremeMarine]

If you get a Salisbury, you should have the 11" rear brake drums. Most agree that this is a good brake set-up. I would just do a full rebuild on them, if I were you. Replace all of the internals, seals and all, put new brake lines in the whole truck, since you're down to the frame anyways, a new 5 way proportioning valve as well. Then if you're feeling iffy, order brand new 11" drums from the uk. They're pretty cheap actually. If you feel you want more braking power, don't worry about it at the rear. You can always put on a Rocky Mountain disc brake conversion on the front.

[XtremeMarine]

BTW; don't know if this helps, but both of my SIII 109's, ( the 3 door and the 5 door SW), both have rear gas tanks. But they're SIII's. ???

[01001010]

Aha, thakns for the info there Dan! Since I'm trying to stick to the "Keep it simple" theme, I think I'll keep Drums on the truck unless I find it absolutely necessary to upgrade later.

Tonight, I took the rear brakes and hubs off WITHOUT braking any bolts! Eureka!! Soon that rear axle will be off. Actually, I think I may have to remove the engine/trans/TC first since I'm afraid that all the frontal weight will make the frame pivot foward right off the stands...lol

I really think I'm going to go with a Sals rear now (after all the reading and comparing I've done).

After I get the bulkhead off, I should have a bare frame soon.

For anyone else reading or searching (Keywords: AXLES , AXLE , Salsbury , Toyota , Yota , Toy )... Here were the axle options I was considering..

• Keeping the Rover diff and upgrading to XHD 10 Spline Axles from Series Trek
• Salsbury Axle Swap
• 4.7 Tundra Third

I think the Salsbury option is going to take the cake.

[Funrover]

Are you ever gonna work on that rig, I mean come on.....LMAO. You are making me notice how bad I am slacking on my Dodge.

[01001010]

LOL...Aaron, its on man! I'm eating, sleeping, breathing Series now. I eat looking at the Rovers North catalogue!

[XtremeMarine]

Further options for you, JC. I just dropped off all 5 wheels for my 5 door 109 at the local powdercoater in town. They have a white that matches the factory white on my wheels, and tropical roof. And he can get it in a low gloss so that it doesn't appear to shiny. The quote to sandblast, zinc chromate prime, and powdercoat all 5 wheels was 100 dollars less than two local paint shops quotes.
I was seriously considering those Walker Evans beadlocks for the Hybrid. But when I found out they only came in 15 or 17, that nixed that idea, as I've already got the 16" Boggers in the shed. So I'm back to weld on bead locking the series steelies. POINT BEING that while I was dropping off the 109 wheels, one of them is in Limestone. My powdercoater has a PC color that PERFECTLY matches Limestone. So the hybrid will have the beadlocks done in Limestone for the Factory look. You might want to look into that.

Have you found a good galvanizer yet? I was on the LRFAQ website, and they have two Galvanizers in Georgia listed, as well as one in Jacksonville, Fl. Thought it might help you out.

[sven]

Originally Posted by 01001010

• Keeping the Rover diff and upgrading to XHD 10 Spline Axles from Series Trek

I think the Salsbury option is going to take the cake.

If it were me, Id do the first one. But instead of 10 spline, do the 24 spline axles from Series Trek. With his 24 spline axles you could use a diff from a 24 spline D1 (ARB,TT, etc). That would keep it simple and cheap(er).

[01001010]

Ok, so before I begin to prepare the engine for removal (draining fluids. loosening) I would like to get it to start and run ONCE. I started to bleed by the filter, and moved my way over to the Distributor pump. I loosened the bleed screw on the pump body and the moved to the one on te control cover. Once loosened, I began to pump using the level and nothing came out. So I then loosened one of the injector fittingsand discovered that nothing came out when I pumped.

Has anyone discovered problems with the distributor pump at the control cover area? Any common problems in this area?

[01001010]

Also, I do know I need to replace the filter and on Thursday im going to try and drain as much of the fuel as ppossible so I can get some new, clean diesel in there.

[01001010]

Well,

I got all the bleeding points to bleed and still no engine start. I took all the injector pipes off to make sure none of them were clogged. Earlier I did not think about having to turn the engine over to see any fuel squirt from the injector pipes...so a quick browse through the forums led me to the procedure.

Still no engine start and I'm stumped... Its got fuel and the battery has juice to crank. Then I thought...Air...

I put my hand on the intake manifold while my brother in law cranked the ignition. I didnt feel any pull! I was boggled. How could this be?...

After removing the valve cover, I found my answer...





So after a quick look through the "Spare" parts provided, I found a single set of these...



Go figure! I had to drain all of the excess diesel that flooded in the engine. Luckily, there's a bleed valve for this process too! I LOVE this engine!