Project: Wilks

[01001010]

Got that...anything else? Liquids | Acids?

[TerryS]

I don't want to start a war, but I disagree with wire brushing. That is good for small spots to take off caked grease, old paint, mud, crud and cow dung, but it actually tends to mask pinholes, and doesn't get the corrosion at the depth of pits and little divits. Sand blasting is the most thorough method, and while it's messy if you do it your self, roll the chassis out in the driveway, knock it all out in one go, and sweep up.
Hopefully you won't find cheesy spots, and can go ahead with the protection, but if you do, cut it out, or "butter" it with weld. The best of all worlds is if you have a galvanizer nearby who will dip the whole chassis, but, failing that, I guess the next best thing is the POR 15 route.

[01001010]

After reading your post, a quick google search rendered a Galvanizer in Suwanee, GA and is about 10 minutes from me. Email sent and waiting on a quote.

I should have the truck down to he frame by the end of the week if time permits.

[Geobloke]

Originally Posted by 01001010

After reading your post, a quick google search rendered a Galvanizer in Suwanee, GA and is about 10 minutes from me. Email sent and waiting on a quote.

I should have the truck down to he frame by the end of the week if time permits.

If you are going to get stuff galv'd then the guys who do it are going to want it shot/sand blasted, then washed and then de-greased. Alot of work but having it galv'd is the way to go.

[Thor]

Good for you JC!

I'll bet you will make it a great rig!

I will be going the other route for my series.... find one already done... pay the man/woman for their time... they learn to care for it via the strict maintenance schedule as Terri Ann speaks of! Unfortunately with my attention span, I could find a nice old 911 and buy that on the way to pick up the series! In any case several years off for me, I'll watch your progress for the details of the rebuild that I lack the patience to go through myself!

[jimfoo]

The galvanizer out here just wanted it blasted. he said his acid dip would take care of any oil/grease. It was a long time ago and zinc costs much more now, but the price was $100 for the first 400 lbs. Probably 3-4 times that now.
What I'm putting in my Series is heated seats. Bought the pads off e-bay.

[AAXD]

Well, It's been 3 days, where's the progress update? I want to see rolling chassis pics!

[01001010]

So im still waiting on my engine lift. As soon as that comes in, Engine/Trans comes off. I've sprayed PB blaster all over the place. Bulkhead will stay on for the pressure wash but will be removed before taking the frame to the galvanizer. My brother in law comes in tonight from a trip so with his help I'll be able to remove the tub tomorrow. Im thinkin about getting the Bulkhead galvanized as well, I just need to find a RHD Pass. Side footwell first.

Man, I definitely needed this. Feels great to be back into heavy wrenching!

[01001010]

Originally Posted by AAXD

Well, It's been 3 days, where's the progress update? I want to see rolling chassis pics!

haha...I was typing while you pressed the Post button.

It should be a rolling chassis tomorrow.

[01001010]

Well, I had to resort to shopping on the UK sites for the footwell. Paddock's came through.

[01001010]

Also, I wire brushed a small area today and though I did get down to shiny steel, it took longer than I liked for such a small area - the front Driver's side frame horn: from the bumper mount back to the steering box.

I think im going to get some discs and put the grinder to work.

[jimfoo]

If you're getting the bulkhead galvanized, I'd bolt it to a big piece of angle across the mounts to help keep it in shape. I also seem to remember my friend having some problems with the door hinge plates afterwards, but he must have sorted it out as he got the doors on. It, the frame, breakfast and t pieces did look nice though.

[AAXD]

Originally Posted by 01001010

Also, I wire brushed a small area today and though I did get down to shiny steel, it took longer than I liked for such a small area - the front Driver's side frame horn: from the bumper mount back to the steering box.

I think im going to get some discs and put the grinder to work.

It might save you some time to buy a ton of paint stripper and just let it sit on your chassis, then scrape it off with a putty knife. When I stripped my 52 jeep frame to bare metal I started off using a small wire wheel on an air drill, then went up to a regular sized angle grinder with a soft wheel. When that took too long I brushed the chassis with tons of stripper, scraped off what I could then attacked the rest with an industrial angle grinder and a huge heavy bristled wire wheel. I was going in sections though because I painted my chassis, I would do about 2 feet then prime it then move on until it was all done, I'd imagine doing it on a 109 frame would take twice as long. If you are getting it acid dipped I wouldn't take it to shiny metal except in the known rust spots so you can confirm that it won't come out of the dipper looking like swiss cheese.

[XtremeMarine]

Originally Posted by 01001010

Also, I wire brushed a small area today and though I did get down to shiny steel, it took longer than I liked for such a small area - the front Driver's side frame horn: from the bumper mount back to the steering box.

I think im going to get some discs and put the grinder to work.

JC, be careful not to sand off your chassis identification number. Since you're keeping your original frame, it's important. It's on the outside of the right side frame horn, in front of the spring hanger. Driver's side for you.

[AAXD]

It's been almost 2 weeks now, where's the project report?? Hope everything is going well.